So, I have a 51 F1 which really needs king-pin attention. Purchased a new set from my local Napa store. I've managed to remove the old bushes and replaced them with new ones. I always thought that they then had to be line reamed for optimum fit......now my Bro in law, ex tool and die guy,. tells me NOT to ream 'em. Says it (reaming) will destroy the bearings ability to hold lubricant.
Advice please....What do you guys do?
Thanks for all answers.
Geoff.

 

they have to be reamed, they are sized that way. otherwise you'll destroy the bearing.

 

Don't get any work done by your Bro in Law - There is a reason he's an EX

 

normally the new bushings will require line reaming to permit the pin to fit in . Your brother in law may be thinking of porous bronze bushings

 

Me too....they must be reamed or you will not get them in

 

Take em to a machine shop. They can hone them to a perfect fit.,...jack

 

Thanks to all for your replies.
4tl8ford.....I should clarify that my Bro in law is retired now and was a Machinist etc. He is also a pretty smart guy, having invented one or two things.
Oldmerc...you are right, he did mention phosphor bronze!
Next stop....find a machine shop.
Thanks again Guys.
Geoff.

 

Here's an easy and cheap backyard method to do a very accurate honing of the king pins. Since there is no machine shop on Orcas Island, I dreamed it up a couple of months ago and did another set last Friday for a friends '51 two ton chev. It is very controllable and on both jobs the king pins would slowly slide down with gravity once cleaned and oiled. My '47 tonner has 7/8" pins so I used a 3/4" dowel and the Dump trucks were 1 1/8" He brought me a 1" dowel, which turned out to be a broom handle. On his I drove a 7/8 deep socket onto the broom handle and used a cut off socket extension chucked into the drill to drive the apparatus. The dowel was slotted on my bandsaw and two strips of cloth belt sander belt were folded into an 'L' and tucked into the slots. A hose clamp on the bottom keeps it all together. I start with 80 grit and finish with 120. Takes about 5 minutes each side. Running the drill in reverse makes the paper 'cam out' and you can feel the extra resistance through the drill. Both trucks have zero play and steer like a dream. Just test the fit often and you will be surprised how well this works.

 

That's a great example of a true mechanic finding a way to get the job done. Good job GB SISSON. Of course I do have to ask one question thou, why not bend the sand paper the other direction and run the drill in forward ha ha ?

 

Brilliant!

 

Would a brake cylinder hone do the same thing?


Ed

 

No. Both bushings need to be honed at the same time with a single tool long enough to cut both simultaneously. At least that's what I was told when I had mine done. Otherwise, you take the chance of having the two bushings misaligned, creating slop in the steering.

 

Thanks for your answers! Sorry not to have responded sooner.
GB Sisson , that's a great idea! I eventually paid a machine shop to do the job, but I'll remember that for next time.
Next question......can someone tell me which way up the lower bearing goes in, and where do the two (each side) steel shims go? Originally there were none, unless they were worn away.
Thanks so much for your help, as always, I appreciate it.
Geoff.

 

Does this help?

 

I think he's asking does the center part of the bearing go up or down? I believe the shims go on the very bottom, under the bearing, because they need to be where they won't turn. The bearing goes with the "inner" part down, the "outer" part facing up against the axle. At least that's the way I see it. I'm not real sure it matters except for the shims.