Its

 

Took the duel tank valve off to day on my 88 and filter wasnt in it and trashy gas and looks to be black grainy seiment the valves were screwed I order a new one ...but my back tank hasn't worked right since I had it and replaced tank and pump sending unit and strainer

 

Its totally stupid just to throw parts at something. But with similar symptoms, the suggestions offered would be a place to confirm if a part is or is not at fault. I have seen many times a mechanic replacing fuel pump and then replacing again for customer when just the fuel switch decides to not work when it gets hot or builds up too much resistance. A reoccurring problem that would drive someone nuts without troubleshooting. Eliminate each link in the chain until you find the broken one.

 

Eliminate each link in the chain until you find the broken one.[/QUOTE]

Until the OP determines what is dropping out it's pointless to introduce more variables by blindly replacing parts.

Simple basic troubleshooting will tell you where to go. Spark or fuel plain and simple. I stand by my statement.

 

Not all of the trucks got filters in the dual tank valve.
Until the OP determines what is dropping out it's pointless to introduce more variables by blindly replacing parts.

Simple basic troubleshooting will yell you where to go. Spark or fuel plain and simple. I stand by my statement.[/QUOTE]
I will make the truck act up again and test for spark and fuel but I won't be able to get to it till Monday. I know I shouldn't be just throwing parts at it but I when I checked before everything was their again though I will reproduce the problem and make it act up to see what is going on.
I would think it is fuel if the pumps are kicking in and out right before it dies I don't see how spark could cause pumps to kick in and out.
Trav

 

Erratic spark equals erratic PIP signal. The PIP is the trigger for the computer to keep the fuel pump relay engaged. Missing PIP makes the relay drop out.

Therein lies the key here, what is the root cause. Focus on the missing component, then proceed accordingly.

 

I will make the truck act up again and test for spark and fuel but I won't be able to get to it till Monday. I know I shouldn't be just throwing parts at it but I when I checked before everything was their again though I will reproduce the problem and make it act up to see what is going on.
I would think it is fuel if the pumps are kicking in and out right before it dies I don't see how spark could cause pumps to kick in and out.
Trav[/QUOTE]

Mine was suppose to have a filter ....Anyways im back up and running after replace tank valve ....it was all funked up no cleaning it

 

Well I got rid of the TPS Code but haven't had time to test drive it.


Turns out I didn't install the TPS correctly as the blade wasn't grabbing the TPS.




I let it run for 30-45 minutes and it didn't die like it usually would but only test driving it will know and I won't be able to test drive it till maybe Monday.


When I go on the test drive I will be prepared with tools to check for spark if it breaks down.
Trav

 

Keep us updated Trav

 

Fixing that TPS might have fixed that problem. Backprobe it and make sure you have correct voltage.

 

I had this problem I checked my grounds replaced my distro I also replace my fan clutch. Idk if that part helpes but runs great now.. I hope this helps

 

Took her for a test drive and knew right away she was going to leave me stranded.


Their was absolutely no power I had it almost floored to do 50mph.


Got to the local gas station regardless and put some gas in her and fired her up put her in gear and she died. Right then she started acting up again. Using my knife (forgot a screwdriver) I verified their was spark trust me my arm still can feel the spark.


I also checked the stream that came out of the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and it was strong like usual but it was while the truck was off.


Once I towed the truck back home I was able to drive the truck into its parking spot and I checked fuel pressure KOEF (key on engine off) and I got 37psi of pressure with no signs of leakage. I did not do a key on engine running test as I couldn't find the specs for it in my book.


I also checked vacuum to the EGR valve and Fuel pressure regulator and they both were within spec minus the EGR Valve would only get vacuum for a few seconds then turn off (probably because of the solenoid not letting it pass through).


I do have a few questions that I am wondering may pertain to this issue:
Once the truck is running are the fuel pumps suppose to keep running? When I turn it to key on engine off it will prime then shut off but once I start the truck they never stop running.


The truck feels a lot warmer then any of my other ford trucks with a 302 or 351 but the gauge is showing that it is fine? Could their be a part causing it to not start because of it being to hot? Also my coolant level seems to raise a lot when it has started acting up.


Could fuel injectors be causing the issue?


My rear tank and pump are for a 90+ truck and do not work could it be acting up? My front tank is correct but the rear I have the wrong one.


I do not know the exact fuel pressure when it starts acting up however as of right now it feels like a loss of power like crazy ( I know 302s don't have much power but I shouldn't need it floored to do 50 on flat ground and no winds out.


Any more ideas are greatly appreciated I am really missing driving this truck and I need another 4x4 for winter.
Trav

 

Since you have enough spark to shock you I would suggest getting a handle on the fuel pressure. I am not certain what effects you triggered by using the wrong rear tank/pump assembly. That one now has a high pressure pump in it that may overwhelm the Dual Function Fuel Reservoir if you ever try to use it.

 

It dosen't even turn on. What should I start first on for the fuel pressure.
If the DFFR is bad could that cause my issues?
Should I just disconnect the wiring to the rear tank?


I have already replaced the FPR, fuel pumps, 2 of the fuel lines because I put a hole in them, fuel filter, and cleaned the fuel lines I am not sure what much more I could fix?
Trav

 

I would disconnect the wiring to the rear tank just to be sure. A ad reservoir could divert pressure to the other tank but you would think the in-tank check valve would prevent that (90+ models)


Stop throwing parts at the problem, diagnose the issue. Measure the pressure with the truck running. Should be ~30-35 PSI at idle w/vacuum on the FPR. The pressure should rise to ~40 PSI as you increase throttle/load. If those specs are met then go back to verifying spark by color and base timing.