Do I need a new radiator or...?
#63
[QUOTE=miihere24;15501267]
How hard or what tools are required to remove the water pump? I know the thermostat is behind it so have to remove one to get to the other correct? (I'll also look for some instructions online)
[ /QUOTE]
NO. The thermostat is NOT behind the water pump. The thermostat housing is what the upper radiator hose is clamped on too.
How hard or what tools are required to remove the water pump? I know the thermostat is behind it so have to remove one to get to the other correct? (I'll also look for some instructions online)
[ /QUOTE]
NO. The thermostat is NOT behind the water pump. The thermostat housing is what the upper radiator hose is clamped on too.
#64
[QUOTE=JEFFFAFA;15501681]
How hard or what tools are required to remove the water pump? I know the thermostat is behind it so have to remove one to get to the other correct? (I'll also look for some instructions online)
[ /QUOTE]
NO. The thermostat is NOT behind the water pump. The thermostat housing is what the upper radiator hose is clamped on too.
Thanks! Just watched a quick video and that's something I can most certainly check in the AM.
Is it ideal to have one that is for 180 degrees or 195?
How hard or what tools are required to remove the water pump? I know the thermostat is behind it so have to remove one to get to the other correct? (I'll also look for some instructions online)
[ /QUOTE]
NO. The thermostat is NOT behind the water pump. The thermostat housing is what the upper radiator hose is clamped on too.
Is it ideal to have one that is for 180 degrees or 195?
#65
[QUOTE=miihere24;15501706]That one will get you mixed reviews. IMHO 180 degree. There are those that prefer one or the other one.
#66
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
Why are you wanting to pull the water pump when you can see the water flowing.
And you say it's not that old.
Rusty water & what ever stuff coming out is proof your cooling system needs back flushing and or rod the tube out. Clear water only means your getting the loose out.
It will just keep have stuff coming loose the flowing through the rad..
I wouldn't risk over heating my motor and maybe crack a head or need to replace head gaskets and may be more. Which would cost more then double for the cost of cleaning your rad system or correct work needed to clean it.
Orich
And you say it's not that old.
Rusty water & what ever stuff coming out is proof your cooling system needs back flushing and or rod the tube out. Clear water only means your getting the loose out.
It will just keep have stuff coming loose the flowing through the rad..
I wouldn't risk over heating my motor and maybe crack a head or need to replace head gaskets and may be more. Which would cost more then double for the cost of cleaning your rad system or correct work needed to clean it.
Orich
#67
Why are you wanting to pull the water pump when you can see the water flowing.
And you say it's not that old.
Rusty water & what ever stuff coming out is proof your cooling system needs back flushing and or rod the tube out. Clear water only means your getting the loose out.
It will just keep have stuff coming loose the flowing through the rad..
I wouldn't risk over heating my motor and maybe crack a head or need to replace head gaskets and may be more. Which would cost more then double for the cost of cleaning your rad system or correct work needed to clean it.
Orich
And you say it's not that old.
Rusty water & what ever stuff coming out is proof your cooling system needs back flushing and or rod the tube out. Clear water only means your getting the loose out.
It will just keep have stuff coming loose the flowing through the rad..
I wouldn't risk over heating my motor and maybe crack a head or need to replace head gaskets and may be more. Which would cost more then double for the cost of cleaning your rad system or correct work needed to clean it.
Orich
For now I've at least ran water through it serverel times and now it has the actual flush fluid in it, I'll see what that produces.
#68
I hear ya. Same goes with all trades, not just mechanics. It's hard to find a good one of anything.
Just to let you know you're not alone. I once had a Ford Taurus that I got really cheap. turns out there was something wrong with that sucker and it manufactured rust. The heater core was plugged with rust. The engine would over heat and you could get no heat in the car. I must have flushed that thing 100 times and that isn't an exaggeration. I got it running crystal clear and then it would do it again. I finally had to get rid of it cuz I couldn't stop it. You won't have that problem.
So just keep on keepin on.
Just to let you know you're not alone. I once had a Ford Taurus that I got really cheap. turns out there was something wrong with that sucker and it manufactured rust. The heater core was plugged with rust. The engine would over heat and you could get no heat in the car. I must have flushed that thing 100 times and that isn't an exaggeration. I got it running crystal clear and then it would do it again. I finally had to get rid of it cuz I couldn't stop it. You won't have that problem.
So just keep on keepin on.
#70
Couple more things. If you wanna back flush it yourself it isn't hard. Remove the tstat (2 bolts) and stick a hose into the manifold. Undo the lower radiator hose at the radiator. Turn on the hose and let her rip. Sometimes making water go against the grain can get things a movin.
Then you can do the same thing by blasting water into the upper radiator hose and see what comes out the bottom of the radiator.
Then you can do the same thing by blasting water into the upper radiator hose and see what comes out the bottom of the radiator.
#71
Couple more things. If you wanna back flush it yourself it isn't hard. Remove the tstat (2 bolts) and stick a hose into the manifold. Undo the lower radiator hose at the radiator. Turn on the hose and let her rip. Sometimes making water go against the grain can get things a movin.
Then you can do the same thing by blasting water into the upper radiator hose and see what comes out the bottom of the radiator.
Then you can do the same thing by blasting water into the upper radiator hose and see what comes out the bottom of the radiator.
I just took it out to get the cleaner running through and when I got back I found something interesting.
I could hear gurgling and when I opened the hood my overflow bottle was filling up, it pretty much went from empty to full and it did start to overheat on the short 20 minute drive. I'm going to let it cool down, but do y'all think that this new development says anything?
#72
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
I'm going to try this. I wanted to check the thermostat to make sure it was the right way.
I just took it out to get the cleaner running through and when I got back I found something interesting.
I could hear gurgling and when I opened the hood my overflow bottle was filling up, it pretty much went from empty to full and it did start to overheat on the short 20 minute drive. I'm going to let it cool down, but do y'all think that this new development says anything?
I just took it out to get the cleaner running through and when I got back I found something interesting.
I could hear gurgling and when I opened the hood my overflow bottle was filling up, it pretty much went from empty to full and it did start to overheat on the short 20 minute drive. I'm going to let it cool down, but do y'all think that this new development says anything?
As it needs room for fluid expansion.
If you have a true recovery system with the correct rad cap that lets the coolant to be sucked back in to the radiator as it cools, then it's working correctly.
Orich
#73
That makes sense.
What a mess I made today, and I liked it! I back flushed it which got out some more grime and I bought a new water outlet for the new thermostat, the other was rusty. I got new clamps and got everything hooked back up.
I did notice a couple cold spots this time on the grille side of the radiator...whomp whomp. Is there a chance those will work themselves out after a couple more flushes? Or it's time to see if I can find a shop that will rod it out?
This has been excellent fun I must say, except for the 95 degree temps. I can't tell what is water from the hose and what is sweat.
What a mess I made today, and I liked it! I back flushed it which got out some more grime and I bought a new water outlet for the new thermostat, the other was rusty. I got new clamps and got everything hooked back up.
I did notice a couple cold spots this time on the grille side of the radiator...whomp whomp. Is there a chance those will work themselves out after a couple more flushes? Or it's time to see if I can find a shop that will rod it out?
This has been excellent fun I must say, except for the 95 degree temps. I can't tell what is water from the hose and what is sweat.
#75
Love it.
How difficult is it to replace the radiator and how do I know which to pick? I'm concerned I'll be charged the same price of a new one for it to be rodded out. I'm mostly concerned because the two smaller lines running to the bottom of the radiator.
Some beach. Just let it run for 25 minutes and still the damn thing is overheating. Fail.
How difficult is it to replace the radiator and how do I know which to pick? I'm concerned I'll be charged the same price of a new one for it to be rodded out. I'm mostly concerned because the two smaller lines running to the bottom of the radiator.
Some beach. Just let it run for 25 minutes and still the damn thing is overheating. Fail.