1994 F150 XLT 4x4 Level / Wheels / Tires
#16
I don't really have the funds for a new set of wheels/tires just yet, so I was hoping to get away with spacers for the time being. I don't want to really stay with the wheels that are on it.
As for the alignment, I've got a real good alignment shop down here that I go to. I noticed a while back when looking at the truck from the front, I see some positive camber on the front wheels. It needs an alignment as it is as it pulls to the right. I picked up all new drag links (both sides) and new tie rod ends as well. What happened was I went to a different alignment shop because the one I goto is away for now and they told me I needed all new front end parts - so I went out and bought them. After further inspection, they all look good, no tears in the boots or anything. I'm going to goto my normal alignment shop tomorrow to see what they say if that stuff really needs to be changed out.
As for the alignment, I've got a real good alignment shop down here that I go to. I noticed a while back when looking at the truck from the front, I see some positive camber on the front wheels. It needs an alignment as it is as it pulls to the right. I picked up all new drag links (both sides) and new tie rod ends as well. What happened was I went to a different alignment shop because the one I goto is away for now and they told me I needed all new front end parts - so I went out and bought them. After further inspection, they all look good, no tears in the boots or anything. I'm going to goto my normal alignment shop tomorrow to see what they say if that stuff really needs to be changed out.
#17
If each beam's pivot bushings haven't been replaced in the life of the truck, aligning won't do much help, as there's only so much an alignment can do.
I'd replace both pivot beam bushings, both radius arm bushings, and all steering rod ends, then go have it aligned.
It's also common for the front springs to sag over time, which will cause some camber.
Those brackets in the previous pic are factory brackets.
I'd replace both pivot beam bushings, both radius arm bushings, and all steering rod ends, then go have it aligned.
It's also common for the front springs to sag over time, which will cause some camber.
Those brackets in the previous pic are factory brackets.
#18
Hi Eduhat and welcome to FTE. That's a very nice looking truck. Love the colors.
I also have a 1994 F150 SC 4X4. Those blocks in the back are stock. Our trucks came with 2" factory blocks. In the front someone has replaced the stock springs with progressive ones. I just replaced mine with Moog CC824 progressive springs and my truck now sits a good 2" higher in the front than it used to. Someone has also replaced your radius arm bushings with what appears to be poly bushings as our trucks came with all black rubber bushings.
My truck has the tow package so it also has the front and rear anti sway bars. I don't if that will make a difference in the stance of your truck verses mine. However, when I measured my truck after installing the new springs and driving it a ways so they settled in I got 21 inches from the centre of the hub to the top edge of the fender. If you measure yours and it's lower than that maybe your springs are sagging and a simple replacement will solve your levelling issues? Just a thought.
I also have a 1994 F150 SC 4X4. Those blocks in the back are stock. Our trucks came with 2" factory blocks. In the front someone has replaced the stock springs with progressive ones. I just replaced mine with Moog CC824 progressive springs and my truck now sits a good 2" higher in the front than it used to. Someone has also replaced your radius arm bushings with what appears to be poly bushings as our trucks came with all black rubber bushings.
My truck has the tow package so it also has the front and rear anti sway bars. I don't if that will make a difference in the stance of your truck verses mine. However, when I measured my truck after installing the new springs and driving it a ways so they settled in I got 21 inches from the centre of the hub to the top edge of the fender. If you measure yours and it's lower than that maybe your springs are sagging and a simple replacement will solve your levelling issues? Just a thought.
#20
Just went out and measured the distance from the center of the front hub to the botton edge of the fender it was exactly 21 inches. For the rear, it measured 23 inches from the center of the hub to the bottom edge of the fender. Those bushings are certainly newish, so that's good. What do you guys think of the current setup?
#21
Just went out and measured the distance from the center of the front hub to the botton edge of the fender it was exactly 21 inches. For the rear, it measured 23 inches from the center of the hub to the bottom edge of the fender. Those bushings are certainly newish, so that's good. What do you guys think of the current setup?
#22
To tell you the truth, I'd rather not have the rake and have the truck leveled. So for the springs up front, are those actually +2in like what you put on your truck? If so, that means stock it would have been +4in in the back compared to the front originally which seems a bit extreme. What I'd like to do is actually raise the front up to be level with the rear. If the stock being +4in in the rear, then a 4inch lift up front should do the trick. Is this correct?
#23
I'm not sure if our trucks had a 4 inch rake when new. However, my old springs were a full 4 inches shorter than the Moog replacement springs even though I bought stock height replacement springs. I didn't want to lift my truck. I measured both the old and new springs while sitting on the ground and, when installed, I gained around 2 inches in height. I have no idea how long the original springs are supposed to be but they were certainly sagging.
Your truck is currently sitting at 21 inches front and 23 inches rear. Maybe something they call a 2 inch cup under your springs would level it? Some lift kits use cups instead of longer springs so small ones are safe to use. They are not necessarily the preferred method but they are safe. I'm not sure if you would need longer shocks. I wouldn't think so.
If you go for a 4 inch lift in the front you would need a drop pitman arm, longer shocks, longer springs or 4 inch cups and 4 inch drop brackets for the radius arms. Maybe even adjustable camber bushings too.
Your truck is currently sitting at 21 inches front and 23 inches rear. Maybe something they call a 2 inch cup under your springs would level it? Some lift kits use cups instead of longer springs so small ones are safe to use. They are not necessarily the preferred method but they are safe. I'm not sure if you would need longer shocks. I wouldn't think so.
If you go for a 4 inch lift in the front you would need a drop pitman arm, longer shocks, longer springs or 4 inch cups and 4 inch drop brackets for the radius arms. Maybe even adjustable camber bushings too.
#24
Okay, that is interesting that the old spring were 4 inches shorter the Moog replacements you have now. Sort of verifies everything we've been trying to figure out. What I'll do is save up for the 4 inch lift all around from rough country (4in Suspension Lift Kit for 80-96 Ford 4wd F-150 Pickup [465.20] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®) and only install the front first and see how she sits. The kit comes with everything from what I can tell, so I should be good. Until then I'll leave her how she sits and get an alignment so I don't chew up the tires that are on it.
#25
Hey guys i was thinking of leveling my truck also. Its a 1994 F150. Im not sure if i should throw 1.5" leveling springs (rough country) or 2" spacers. And i know with either kit adjustable camber bushings and an alignment are a must but which kit will do a better job at leveling the truck. Any reply will help a lot!
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eduhat
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