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Gotta love Shane's idea/ingenuity..
Purge valve kept getting clogged, installed a $1.00 line filter between it, and the canister,no more CEL in 9 years. Make sure it is a free flow.
i can not fill the truck up quick it takes about 30 min to fill , I was going to just replace the filter canister but at $200 dollars it's a little ridiculous and that was a good price special order online Ford wants almost $300 which is crazy , how can it be eliminated
I rather doubt delegating your carbon canister is the fix to your problem. Far more likely something else simple - like a plugged ventfilter, or a hose that vents pressure to the atmosphere. See post #6 by @twigsV10, this thread.
The (Normally OPEN) carbon canister vent valve (mounted underneath near the carbon canister) should vent air in your fuel tank to the atmosphere as you fill up. It should pass through the carbon canister and out to the atmosphere. This can be verified by disconnecting the tank purge line from the 'ELECTRONIC VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE' (a/k/a Purge Valve) mounted on the fire wall next to the break booster next time you fill up. It is easy to disconnect. Just press the little grey buttons on top and bottom of the connector next to the valve and it will slip right off (see 1st photo in post #6). If it's easy to fill up then; Remove the canister vent valve (underneath, NOT the one on the fire wall ) and see if you can blow / draw air through it (should be normally open). If you can't: see which way air isn't moving - ie: through canister or out the vent path.
If the canister is plugged up - it could possibly have liquid fuel in it from overfilling the tank. If that is a possibility - stop multi clicking on fill-ups for a while and the fuel in the canister will evaporate / be drawn into the intake manifold and it can start working properly again after the fuel evaporates. Or, if canister is truly plugged up - check out this clever post above. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16800530
For the PCM's Emissions Monitor Test to pass all its continuous tests (one of which is to open Purge Valve to draw a vacuum in the tank, of ~ 15 In H2O), it measures the amount of time for THAT tank vacuum to 'decay'. It knows how much air can be drawn in through the Normally Open canister vent valve - through the carbon canister back into the tank. If you delete the canister., I do not believe the Emissions test would ever complete properly. You'd have a different DTC code, but still fail the overall tests.
i can not fill the truck up quick it takes about 30 min to fill , I was going to just replace the filter canister but at $200 dollars it's a little ridiculous and that was a good price special order online Ford wants almost $300 which is crazy , how can it be eliminated
Here's s temporary solution that costs nothing
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_3IPIaB17XE
Thank you all for these posts. They actually give me hope that I can fix this issue with my truck.
To date I have dropped the tank twice and cleaned out the lines, blown air through the vapor canister, and removed the anti siphon spring. Still it feels like the tank is pushing fuel out when I try to fill it and I don't want to buy another canister assembly.
Because of these posts I am mildly excited to have some direction next time I try to fix this aggravating issue!
i am sure this has been suggested ,at least it worked on 09 250sd, i drilled two, 1/2 in holes in canister,mine was rectangular, shook and blew out all the carbon. plugged the holes with silicone. have not had a problem since
Where is the carbon canister located on a 5.4? My 2005 Superduty has been having a fueling issue since I put on a flat bed a few years ago. Only have the problem at the fuel pumps and can only get about a 1/4 of a gallon at a time. This thread has been helpful but I don't know where the canister is located? I plan to check the vent line first.
While I have read on this forum numerous times this is my first post. I have a 2010 f250 5.4 and now am having the same issue with filling up. My truck has 124,000 miles. I tried to take the canister out but cant remove 2 of the torx head bolts holding the plate that is below the canister. My question is what would happen if you just take the lines off of the canister and leave them off permanently?
thanks
I eventually got around to addressing the fill up issue, successfully I believe, and entirely due to this thread. I will eventually run 15 foot of breather hose from under the truck to somewhere under the hood (as mentioned before) and cap it with a cheapo breather filter. But for now I removed the solenoid that sat atop the breather box, disassembled it, and cleaned it out with some leftover MAF cleaner spray. There was a screen within that seemed clogged with sand and since cleaning it and reassembling it I've been able to fill up without incident.
Thanks for all the tips and tricks -- I sure seem to need a lot of them for this truck!
I eventually got around to addressing the fill up issue, successfully I believe, and entirely due to this thread. I will eventually run 15 foot of breather hose from under the truck to somewhere under the hood (as mentioned before) and cap it with a cheapo breather filter. But for now I removed the solenoid that sat atop the breather box, disassembled it, and cleaned it out with some leftover MAF cleaner spray. There was a screen within that seemed clogged with sand and since cleaning it and reassembling it I've been able to fill up without incident.
Thanks for all the tips and tricks -- I sure seem to need a lot of them for this truck!
I have the V10 and have the same issue. I pulled out my canister and it passed air through all ports no problem. Does any know where that Puge valve is that get clogged? On an f350
I have the V10 and have the same issue. I pulled out my canister and it passed air through all ports no problem. Does any know where that Puge valve is that get clogged? On an f350
I truly don't know how to access the purge valve on that particular canister, but if I had to guess it's the one with the electrical connector -- I think that's the one that sends the signal up to the solenoid under the hood. Were it front of me I'd see if I could rotate the valve at all and pull it out or gently pry it out with a flathead screwdriver. Additionally I'd look to see if the entire top of the box can be pried off.
I haven't had a problem with the fill-up issue since cleaning the valve but since mine was so dusty I went ahead and drilled two large holes in either side of my canister and refilled them with some fish tank charcoal from Amazon, almost 8 pounds. If there is a clean way to get the lid off your canister I'd certainly consider that repair as well.
Well after cleaning the screen as stated above and it still not helping I decided to take the canister off. When I did I couldn't blow through it at all and after hearing the prices people want for em I decided to try something out. I took a dremel and cut down the seam in the middle after making a small cross cut for a reference point later. After I was able to separate the canister I saw that directly in the middle was a large spring with a plastic screen on either end holding the carbon on both sides. I dumped out the carbon into two separate containers (different amounts on either side) and then saw that there were screens at both ends of the canister. I attempted to blow on the side that vents out and still couldn't. After a heavy dose of carb cleaner and the air hose I was able to easily blow through that side. The other side was extremely clean but I hit it also. I was going to order some bulk carbon off amazon, $6 for 3 lbs (would take at least 2), but I didn't feel like waiting so I took a screen off my house and sifted any dust out of what I had. After putting the carbon back in both side I mounted a 4x4 to a piece of plywood then applied a generous amount of jb weld where the seam was and had my wife stabilize the center of the canister while I pushed the two halves back together and screwed another 4x4 on the other end. Once that was done I applied more jb weld to all the area I had cut. After this cured I got a stick of quick steel putty and molded it around the raised seam. Might not have been necessary but I didn't want it to come apart. Just don't go to heavy on it because there is very little room to snap it back in its housing. Put it all back together and SUCCESS no more popping the hood to fill up. I also purchased a cheap breather filter off the shelf from advanced and ran a line under the hood so it will no longer get all the dust from under the truck.
I rebuilt my carbon canister the same way and now I pump gas like nothing ever happened. I rinsed the canister end filters with acetone and nothing melted...just got cleaned out.
12-22-2016, 12:34 PM
