Ive been looking for a dent for a while, the truck is not a primary vehicle and really just something to hobby around with, fix up, haul stuff from home depot, mulch, mowers, just knock around.
I'm between 2 trucks, a long bed and short bed in different condiion.
The LWB is a 79 ranger xlt, brown,ps, pb, ac, 351M, auto, 120K miles, great condition, xlt ranger.
the other truck is a 74 xlt in poor shape with rusted floor boards, and bed sides, 302 v8, auto, ps, no pb, no ac, but it's a short wheel base. I really wanted a short wheel base and I"m afraid my common sense is outweighing the want.

The cost is about $900 differnce with the short wheel base older truck being less.

Which would you do?

 

For hauling stuff around, a LWB is pretty nice to have - you can fit lumber/plywood in the bed with the tailgate closed, carry more mulch in a load, etc. I'd go for the long bed in a heartbeat for that application.

But if the short bed is what you really want and you want to get into a big project fixing it up, that's another story.

 

For the price difference I'd go with the longbed. The cost of metal and bodywork the shorted would total more than $900. Then again I like the lab better for work

You could always save the money and search for a swb in better condition if it's your dream truck.

 

In addition to utility of the LB and avoiding major sheetmetal resto, the 351 can handle moderate towing better than the 302 and is easier to upgrade in the future with 400 or 460 if you want.

 

If the 1974 is an F100:

1973/79 F100 2WD: Manual disc brakes were standard equipment, power disc brakes were optional.

IMO, get the 1979, the 1974 needs mega-bucks worth of rust repair, has a gutless 302 w/o power discs, no A/C

And, you can bet the farm that if the floor boards, bed sides are rusted, so will be the radiator support where it attaches to the frame, cab mounts and etc etc etc!

People grossly underestimate what the costs to restore these trucks can be, and rust repair is the most expensive and time consuming of all.

 

Thanks for the input guys, Heres a little more about the 2 trucks. I'll have to make a decision this week.

1974 2WD, SWB, XLT, 302, auto, ps, green and lime tutone, original paint, orginal drivetrain. It has a hole rusted through the drivers side front cab mount, the drivers side floor board has holes rusted out, the drivers side fender has hole rusted out on the bottom, both wheel arches have a lot of rust and will need to be replaced and there is a dent in the front of the hood and on the top bed corner near the tailgate. The interior is bad, dash pad full of cracks, headliner torn up, seat torn up and one door panel cracked. The gage cluster works but the lenses is clouded, i'm guessing from moisture in the truck from setting for 3-4 years. When the truck started, it smoked whitish/blue and then stopped once warmed up, if you rev the motor it smokes again and stops after a few minutes. I'm guessing that is the valve seals dried out, since the motor isnt rattling or making any strange noises. The trans shifts good. Something is causing it not to start by the switch, it has to be jumped off by the starter solenoid and a screwdriver. I would want to add power brakes to it and fix the seals and rust if I got it to start with.

The other is:
1979 2WD, LWB, XLT Ranger, 351M, auto, ps, pb, a/c (doesnt work), its solid brown with racetrack trim, both rear wheel arches show some paint bubbling of rust, it's the original paint, wheels, and drive train. The interior is good, but the seat bottom is split open and cracked. Everything else is in good working order. This truck was a carport truck owned by a guys grandparents that hes selling in the estate. The only thing it needs for sure is a battery, and maybe an a/c maintenance. The rust is minimal and could probalby be patched a lot easier than replacing a whole arch.

If I get the LWB, I gusess I could cut it down to short bed one day. Im guessing about 1000 to cut the frame and 1000 for a good replacement bed.

I appreciate your inputs guys. These forums are great and regardless of which way I go, I'll post lots of pics of progress or projects.
thanks for the replies.

 

Post the VIN's, Warranty Plate codes for both trucks. When decoded, you'll see how both were equipped, where they were assembled and sold new.

I see you live in NC .. Rusty trucks are somewhat uncommon in the south. Tom's Flashback F100's is located in Reidsville, he might know of a nice SWB

NC Ford truck repro parts sellers: Carolina Classics (Durham) & Dennis Carpenter (Concord).

 

Those are good points, based on the description, do you think a rusted hole in a cab mount could be patched without replacing the mount?

 

Southern Truck sells rust free GM, Chevrolet, GMC, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Jeep, Toyota, Mazda, Isuzu, Mitsubishi, Nissan truck parts and also does truck restorations and customized paint jobs.

"Southern Truck has fabricated short sides and beds for 1978 - 1979 Ford pick up trucks. These are new aftermarket boxsides that are selling for $1390 for the single tank pair, $1445 for the dual tank pair. A complete single tank box sells for $3395 and the complete dual tank box sells for $3450. These boxes will also fit the 73 - 77 models, difference being the 78 - 79 models have a gas door versus the gas cap. Boxes are single tank, but can be modified for dual tanks upon request. These parts are like new and are packaged in cardboard for easy pickup or shipping right to your door."

 

The green one sounds like a headache, but kudos to you if you take on a project that size. If you do, be aware that if it has a green interior, parts are pretty rare because no one reproduces them. Not a huge deal for things like plastic door panels (can be painted), but seats, floor vinyl, etc. are difficult to find and if you happen to find any, can be expensive if the seller knows what they've got.

 

Always pic the truck in better condition if you can afford it.

 

I'd either take the '79 or resume hunting for a better short bed. This is a big country, still with plenty of good trucks of that age.

 

I have a '69 F100 Ranger but, the Bumpsides and Dentside are close cousins.

I searched for 5 months before I bought my truck. I looked at a lot of trucks in that time. Most were very rusted. I held out for one that had a very solid body.

Get as solid a body as you can find. Engine, paint and accessories can always be changed/added later on but, if the body isn't solid, you'll burn through a lot of money BEFORE you can begin to do anything else with the truck.

These trucks are also high maintenance so, it helps greatly if you're mechanically inclined. If not, a lot of the money that could be going into the truck will going into the pocket of the professional mechanic instead.

The other main thing, when looking at a potential truck to purchase, is to listen to your head and not your heart. Be realistic about what it will take to get the truck to the level you want it to be at.

 

Great advice, ultraranger. Beautiful bump!

David

 

Thanks guys! And, I agree, GREAT TRUCK! Ultraranger