I'd wager from the noises you have, that after you check the easiest valves' clearances, it will be obvious whether that's the problem. Seems like the rear valves are easiest?

 

Ross, when checking the valve clearance with a feeler gauge, what is the secret to knowing when the tappets are adjusted correctly, barely squeezes in or just a little firm. I ask because I need to do the same thing to mine but not sure what it should feel like when adjusted correctly.

Jonathan

 

Thank you! I did this today and adjusted the valve lash. While it wasn't easy to get to #2 and #3, the rest weren't too bad.

OMG, they were SO far out, I'm surprised the engine ran as well as it did. At least 0.03 or more..some looked like they were about a 1/16" gap.

While it's not perfect now, and I'll probably do another pass at some point...on a relative scale the engine now purrs! I'll get a recording tomorrow for comparison purposes.

Highly recommend anyone doing this to buy two of the thinnest, shortest 1/2" open end wrenches you can find. Took me about 4 hours including pulling the wheel and access panel, but I was taking my time and had to stop for a break from time to time, plus stopped for supper in there as well.

View of the lifter covers from the access panel.



Here is a view of the valve stems/lifters. Are there any recommendations re: how to clean some of the sludge out of there?

I tried wiping it down, but almost impossible to get to and it's pretty caked and baked on.

 

Good deal you got them adjusted. Is the heat riser free? I see the counterweight appears to be broken off. Sometimes the weight missing is an indication that someone tried to free the heat riser and broke the weight. Lets hope that is not your case here.

 

Ross is probably out on a hot date so I'll say: When right, the feeler gauge will slide with slight drag. Obvious when it is too loose and obvious when it is too tight. After you've made a few adjustments or felt a few, you'll understand.

 

Yes, the heat riser is free. When you hit the throttle, you can see the arm move and then swing back. In the parts that came with the truck, there is an intake and exhaust manifold. One of the ears/bolts is broken off the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connector, which must be why they replaced it.

I'll look and see if the counterweight is in place on the old manifold.

Also the down draft tube is clear.

 

I set them so it will slide in and out with some drag, not much. The valve springs on these are so light that you can actually raise the valve if you try to jam too thick a feeler in. I shoot for the middle of the spec'd range.

That looks acceptably clean to me. It's clearly been on detergent oil most of its life. Just do regular oil changes and keep it running at a high enough temp. Are you running an oil filter?

Congrats on getting 'er done!

 

On the H series motors you have to run an oil filter. The canister on those six cylinders is not a bypass setup afterthought like on the V8s, it is a full time filter.

 

If you want to get closer on your adjustment, you can use a "go no-go" feeler gauge. It has two sizes with a step on the blade, and you'll set the lash where the first step is sloppy, but won't go onto the larger step. Then you'll be right on.

 

Here's the post valve adjustment video. Not the most exciting video on the internet, sorry no cats were included in the making of this video.

BTW Ross, yes I'm running an oil filter.

Post valve adjustment video

 

Runs very smoothly!

Did you make your videos while parked on concrete? I've found the camera picks up the reflected noises from underneath, amplifying them. I made a video of mine running in the garage, and when I played it back I thought my rod bearings had gone out.

 

Sounds like it is running fine now. I can't tell for sure but are you missing the fan shroud? If so I think Ron has one from a 226 on eBay. He is a good guy to get to know on these 226's as parts are like finding hens teeth.

 

I don't have a fan shroud. I'm assuming it helps with cooling, which so far hasn't been a problem for me, but probably a good idea to snap up parts when they're available.

Although I haven't had any issues with overheating, I did get a scare the other day. I was driving along and looked at the gauges and the temp gauge was pegged on hot. Slowed down and no difference, so pulled over and everything seemed to be running ok, so went straight home. Pulling the wire off the sending unit, I noticed it was fairly corroded, so cleaned up the connection and it's working fine again.

Ross, yes the vid was made parked on concrete, so I agree it makes the vid sound a bit more "rattle-y" than it does in real life.

 

So...two steps forward, one back.

I rebuilt the carburetor and it really make the engine run a lot better. Previously, the accelerator pump wasn't working so the engine would almost die as you pressed on the accelerator pedal.

During the cleaning, not only was the accelerator pump passage clogged, but several others including the vacuum advance for the distributor.

Got that all working and drove it several times with it running very smooth. Then today I swapped out the fuel pump and changed the oil and oil filter. So far this seems to have fixed the gas in the oil issue..but I've only driven it 2.5 miles.

After swapping the fuel pump, it started great and ran well. Then took it for a drive and it started dying at stop signs. When I got back to the house, it was running rough and missing like crazy.

I'm assuming this is probably some crap that's now been flushed through into the carb and clogged it up again. The only other thing I did was put clean oil in the air cleaner, the old oil level was low and was filthy....it runs better without the cover on, but still not very well. I'm assuming that probably means the air cleaner is clogged as well.

I did slosh a small amount of oil onto the outside of the distributor cap, but wiped that all up and wiped off the spark plug wires.

Any thoughts before I pull the carb and flush it all out again (there is a filter in line going into the float bowl)?

 

What is the condition of the gas tank and fuel line? If they aren't clean, you are feeding the flow of crud into the carb.