OK that's a relief but how would I go about fixing it? I tried to look it up but i haven't seen a similar instance. also I defiantly wont be tightening it very much now but before I didn't really tighten it that much it was tight but not overly torqued down which is why it surprised me. After looking at it a bit though im almost positive the reason was the bolt I used was longer than it should have been. I still have a box under it supporting it do you think it would hold if i took the box out from under it? its barley helping it up anyway just used it to get the engine low enof to mount it with out using a crane.

 

just another quick question im looking to do the axle pivot bushings on my 68 f250 does anyone know the correct part number that would fit? i got some but i returned them because they didn't look right.

 

You'll need to have a shop do it if you want it done right.
But may be cheaper to find another block tho.
It kind of depends where you live cost wise, so you'll have take it into a shop so they can see what their dealing with.

When, I said fixable. I did not mean by you.
Orich

 

Part number is C5TZ3B177A.
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So its been awhile since I have been on here but I need help once again. since last time I posted I was suing that holley 2 brl which was a great little carb but has any young guy with a old car I wanted to go faster.. so I decided to hunt down a 4v intake for a 390 to put on my little old 360. It took awhile but I eventually found one unfortunately not aluminum but cast iron s code intake off a 69 Torino I believe. anyway I cleaned it up and built a carb for it a holley 1850 and set out to wake the 360 up. after I put it back together and all was done I got it started and it sounded good adjusted the carb and let it sit overnight so I could go get a timing light. the next day I went to start I up and for some reason it wouldn't start. I tried and tried but I wouldn't do it. I waited another day and it still wouldn't start for anything. and being a impatient kid I pulled the distributor out again to see if there was a problem I've reset the timing to 0 degrees before tdc at least 20 times so far and dropped the distributor back in I even tried new points and condenser at one point. on about the 16th time it started after I retarded the distributor and set the point gap to .16 with a feller gauge and it fired but wouldn't run for long so I did it again with more retarding and I got it to run but it ran like crap and it was really retarded and it would die if you even taped the gas pedal at all. so over a week or two I tried different things took the points off and went to a pertronix unit which I wanted anyway, I borrowed a carb that I knew worked fine from a friend cause mine kept leaking and eventually breaking from falling off my work bench... and I eventually resorted to pulling the timing cover off to check the timing chain and to my surprise it was completely roached.. it was so bad in fact you could literally take the chain off without taking either of the gears off.. so I replaced it with one I had laying around that had only a few miles on it from a 390. I lined the dots up cam gear dot on the bottom and crank dot on top everything seemed good and when I got the harmonic balancer back on the pointer lined up with 0 mark. I put it all back together and dropped the dizzy in and let it rip it wouldn't fire just spit through the carb. I tried taking the valve cover off and watched the valves open and close on #1 cylinder and I got mixed advice has to when the intake valve should open but I tried both before it closed and after it closed and it would not work for anything. finally I asked a mechanic at the local ford dealer what I should do and he told me to do the finger trick and let my finger blow off the #1 hole with the spark plug out while the motors cranking over and once it blows off turn the motor with a wrench over to about 13 degrees before tdc and I did this with no luck the thing still back fires and it has been almost 5 weeks here this has taken. on top of that ive noticed the oil I had just changed after I swapped intakes is a light brown color like a coffee with creamer in it. it also smells harsh like its got gas in it. I'm thinking that from the other carb that was having leaking problems leak gas while the truck was sitting and it drained past the rings into the oil. either that or the intake itself is leaking. any ideas any help would be very much appreciated.

 

So you wanted to go fast. How that's working out for ya as Dr. Phil would say.

Geez you've been all over this engine doing things.
I'd drain the oil out if it has gas in it for starters.

2th. thing, I'd do a compression test to know what the condition of the internal parts are. If all above 125+ ok

3rd. recheck the timing and where is the rotor pointing at when the pulley is at TDC
should be at #1 on the cap. Also check the voltage going to the coil. If not enough voltage it may be hard starting with the pertronix unit as they should have 9volts+.

4th Make sure gas is shooting down the carb throat when hand working the throttle.

5th Make sure Battery is fully charged, now if you have the old style ignition switch that has the round pins the rear wiring plug connects get hot and close half the voltage for the starting circuit. This causes the engine to not startup, but only almost like it going to fire up and run.

So with that being said, I'd try bypassing the trucks starting main circuit by Hot wiring it. Ran a jumper wire from the Batt.+ side to the coils + side when your ready to start it. You just turn the ign. switch key to start it. But to shut the engine off you'll have to remove the hot wire from the batt.

If you were to remove the ign switch look at the plug as most that still have this old style switch in their trucks the plug & smaller contacts will look burnt or over heated.

The newer ign switch can been wired into place. You'll need the matching plug.
Below is what the newer style switch looks like from the rear.
Orich


This is the bad one

This is the replacement flat terminals

 

I would like to get it running decent and make sure there isn't anything leaking into he oil before I change it again since this will be the second time I will have changed it just because. now I got it to run again today but it was the same thing as before really crappy low idle barley running and dies if you give it any gas except it sits when it dies now. I cant find anyone around me that has a compression tester for this damn thing so I haven't gotten around to checking that out witch I'm sure will be very helpful in figuring this out. I realized the positive lead on the coil from the distributor needed to be sooner in the stack i think between the ignition lead and the ballast resistor lead. But i was thinking about it and so far ive checked and verified the timing chain is good and set properly, the marks line up where there supposed to, rocker arms and pushrods are not bent and the distributor gear pin is not sheered. I also get spark on all wires. so really if I am putting the distributor in right then it should have a problem unless there's a issue with the valves or the lifters or cam shaft has a issue. I thought maybe the carb has been hurt by the numerous backfires. at this point idk what it could be. also carb does get gas and battery is fully charged. I'm pretty sure i have the old style ignition switch and it has had problems before but it has never done anything like this. if it was the ignition switch i don't think it would even run like it did.

 

Those bad ign switches affected the starting circuit they mimic a bad condensor or resistor block like what was used on the early 60's.

You have a bad intake manifold gasket sealing problem. Is any smoke coming from one side of your exh. pipes. This is hard to detect even with a vacuum gauge at times.
But may only foul one spark plug.

Sometime a guy has to walk away from it and sleep on the problem to figure it out.

Did you check to see if any vac. lines leaking at the tranny.
orich

 

Are you sure that the firing order is correct? Maybe check to make sure the plug wires are in the correct place on the dist. cap.

 

I'm going to try and re do the intake and make sure its sealing right thinking those cork gaskets are screwing it up. the trans vac lines are all good i do have a pcv valve that i just kind of mickey moussed which could be a problem too. there's no some from the exhaust ill alo check out the spark plugs while I'm at it.

 

ok so m back after a lot of side tracking.. I found out I was putting the distributor 1 tooth wrong and it was making it hard to time but I got the thing to run... only issue is now the motor has acquired a knock of some kind. it idols beautiful I need to do a lot of carb adjusting cause its way too rich but when you give it gas something defiantly bottom end is loose and It knocks but its not consistent its actually kind of random almost but it increases the higher the rpm. ive had to let it sit for a few weeks now ive turned it over every few days but its not drive able like this I'm to the point where I'm thinking I jus need to do a motor swap or rebuild it issue is ive got another project that I'm working on a 69 ford falcon I swapped a 302 in and a 3 speed overdrive from the late model trucks. it needs shift linkage custom made so its not drive able at the moment. by the way I did a compression test and all the cylinders where lower than they should be but 3 of the where way low and #1 cylinder was the lowest at 55 psi! this motor is just worn out and needs work. so does any one have any ideas for a relatively cheap motor swap for this thing? just good enof to drive till I can rebuild the 360. ive got a few options laying around the first being a 77 400m motor that my buddy has he said I can have. problem with it is its smoged so I've got to un smog it and the other issue is it needs the 335 or 460 style c6 which I have a good core to rebuild but I'm not sure if I can put the short tail shaft and output shaft from the c6 that's in my truck on it so it will fi length wise with no drive line mods. the other option is a 71 302 that's atm is a bare block that I was fooling aroud with kind of cheaply peiceing together it would need a little machine work and a seal kit and bearings but idk how different the mounting for a small block is in a 68 and I need a trans. I do have a c4 that was behind a 6 cly in that falcon I could overhaul and get a bellhosuing for but idk if that would fit length wise either. any ideas?

 

1st, motor swaps are doable but not cheap, nor easy. Sounds like you need to do everything right the 1st time and not mickey mouse things. Not meaning to sound mean, just sayin'. Like your PCV system. Doing that wrong can cause a major vacuum leak.
2nd, double check everything. Sometimes a person gets in a hurry and misses something. Or does something wrong. Like getting too cocky on an easy Pool shot and missing it.
3rd. I'd change the oil AND new Quality oil filter and add either marvel's mystery oil or an additive called Seafoam. Ford Motorcraft part number FL1A on the filter. Run it for a bit to see if this frees up some sticky lifters or piston rings.
4th. Please correct your voice text posting. A lot of us here want to help but are old school. Missing caps, words speled wrong, punctuation wrong, words that make little sense, etc are hard to read and a bit disrespectful. Thank You for your understanding.

 

thank you so much for your for the advice! I am so sorry about how i type. I guess that comes from being young and in a rush... any way so i settled on a engine since it was all I could get and of course it will not be has simple as swapping it with the old one. so it is as far as i know a 1961 352. it has a 4 brl cast iron intake, big intake valves and ports, and had been rebuilt recently but had a lifter tick. so i tore it down found it had .060 pistons and was almost brand new. a quick hone and some cleaning up and it is ready to go back together with new bearings,rings and what not. has some of you know the 58-65 motor mounts are slightly different so i cant use the same ole 68 motor mounts. I am currently coming up with a way to make adapters to make the old motor mounts fit the 68 frame mounts. but i was wondering if any one had done this kind of swap before and knows of a swap kit that would make this easier on me so I don't have to attempt to fab something up? As usual any insight is much appreciated.

 

If you don't get an answer here try asking on the 57-60 Forum. But most things that can be done to these old trucks, have been done by these members.

 

Ladybird, I would suspect that 500 has been through the hands of an amateur racer (or 10) since the choke was removed. It's probably best to abandon that for something with less of a grief factor.
I have put the earlier block in pickups by making a set of plates that bolt to the block and have the threaded holes where you need them. IIRC, I used 1/2" plate. It will set the engine a little higher, didn't seem like a problem in the old highboy I had.