I bought my truck almost 5k miles ago. I changed the oil when I bought it with T6 and oem filter and had to replace the filter cap with oem. I changed it again last week at about 4200 miles with the same (actually a Fram filter with the patent numbers on it), and not am having the stiction issues and its even warmer outside than all winter.


I have used Rotella T6 because that is what most everybody suggested on here. But when you look at oil comparison charts, Rotella is near the bottom. I have always been a Mobil 1 man. I have read that the turbo diesel Mobil 1 is a true synthetic and Rotella T6 is a dino base oil and not 100% synthetic. I am considering going with Mobil 1. Walmart sells it, it is about $4-$5 more per gallon, and I think it is probably a better oil.


I want what is best for my truck. I cant afford to cause problems because of trying to save a few bucks on something as important as oil. That doesn't mean I want to throw money toward Amsoil or the like. You cant find it anywhere and it is really pricey. But if I think I can get one of the top oils for only $20 more per change, then why not?

 

I'm a fan so far of Archoil. I don't think it matters when you add it in relation to your trip. In fact, it'll probably make your trip more enjoyable knowing you've done what you can for stiction.

What oil did you use last week?

 

I used Rotella T6 again. I just don't understand the stiction unless the previous owner had used hot shots or archoil or something that took a few thousand miles to run its course.


I will probably add the archoil to the next change before our trip. I am considering keeping the T6 so I will know if the archoil is working. I am of the train of thought that I like to only make one change at a time to see what actually works and what does not. But after we get back, I may go with Mobil 1.

 

I've owned our Excursion 2003 6.0 for three years. Its never had bad stiction but some rough running now and then , which an be related to stiction. I started using T6 with my first oil change and have since then. The car was "quieter" after the first oil change, less "diesel" noise. Then I had a FICM go out, replaced that, and started getting paranoid. So I used two bottles of REV-X with each oil change and that definitely made a difference, smoother running, no episodes of roughness. Then I stopped using REV-X for about a year. Then I started noticing that after long runs on the highway or long trips of a few hours, I'd come to stop and have a pretty rough idle. Then it would go away and come back and so on... Then I developed an oil leak, which turned out to be the ICP, which is a PITA on the early 6.0s. The new ICP helped a lot, no more oil leak and no more really rough idles after long trips. A few months ago I changed the oil and added Archoil. That made a nice difference. Things got quieter, the engine is smooth, pulls nicely, etc.

I'm just giving you my experience in case any pieces of it help out.

 

You can always pull the known bad Injector and clean up the spool valve, your chance with any snake oil will be a temporary one. I have to ask How are you adding the revx ? 1. oil Housing with stand pipe removed , 2. straight in the fill tube? According to tech Ron it's been known for better results to pull the stand pipe in the Oil Housing and add it there. I also had some real bad stiction to find out my Charging system was on the fritz replaced alt, Ficm with two New Battery's lo and behold No more Issues I didn't even have to plug in this winter. Just My 2 c's

 

Used REVX when I first bought the truck with 5W-40 Rotella, tremendous improvement. Just put in Archoil 9100, AMAZING difference in starts, throttle response, and idle. And my truck was good to begin with!

 

What is a blue spring? And these products your using, are you putting them in the crankcase or fuel system?

 

I don't understand the "procedure" for pouring the Rev-X into the filter housing. It mixes with the oil wherever you add it. I poured mine straight into the oil filler tube after adding 15 qts of T6.

I believe that minor stiction, like I had, can be cured with the right additive. Really bad, chronic stiction probably means at least one bad injector. Only way to find out is with a diagnostic tool that can monitor the injectors (like the AE).

I did find that the archoil made a nice improvement to the engine running as a whole. Supposedly you can double your oil change cycle while using archoil. Not sure if I'm going to wait 10k miles to change the oil but if that were a possibility, the archoil would be a money savings.

 

The "blue spring" is a blue spring. Its a spring that goes into the fuel filter housing. The spring basically regulates fuel pressure. The blue spring is stronger than the factory spring so it holds for longer before releasing. The result is increased fuel pressure. I have had my blue spring kit sitting in the garage all winter. I didn't feel like doing the work in the snow. Its about time I got around to it.

 

The way the op is describing is exactly how mine did with HSS except my stiction before the HSS was 10, 15 seconds (only have sticion in cold temps) was 30, 40 seconds with HSS. Another factor with mine was I put it in in the fall so in winter couldn't really evaluate whether the stiction was getting better or not. I ran it for ~5000 miles and drained it when I did my EGR delete. Of course I have zero stiction but again--it's warm out. I'd say it probably did me some good. The Diesel Extreme for the fuel had an immediate impact when I ran a bottle of it.

 

vids are worth a thousand words, by adding it through the stand pipe housing first you get a straight shot of Rev X to the Injectors first , Instead of mixing with oil then trying to do it's job , it will work but not as Effective.

 

So they say... who knows. I know that RevX worked well for me and Archoil worked even better.