Observations
#16
04-24-2015, 10:29 AM
Not to start a s*** storm, but IMHO the reason the ones with the chevy drive trains are cheaper is because it is simply more expensive to use a Ford drive train. Most all the Ford 5.0's, 351's have been beat to death and/or badly modified, so it's near impossible to find one that doesn't need a full rebuild, then there is the problem of finding a good compatible tranny to go with it, Ford is notorious for non interchangeable assemblies, so there are almost no useable OD trannys. Then once you have a rebuilt engine you have to change out the oil pan and pump to clear the axle or IFS cross member. If you want to go Ford driveline, again IMHO the economical way is to use and EFI mod motor and matching tranny out of a complete donor vehicle. But even that can be a compatibility nightmare. I am helping Gary with installing a 2007 Mustang 4.6 engine and 3650 tranny in his 52, and are fighting a lot of issues with it: i.e. no one offers a wiring harness without PAT for use with an auto tranny, so a manual was the only choice, That creates the problem in that the 3650 variant of the T5 everyone else uses is unique to Ford in that it uses a weird remote shifter that sits beyond the tranny tailshaft. To move the shifter to a more useable forward location is going to require custom modifying a ($$$) Hurst short throw shifter kit and building a 1 of a kind mount for it. The tranny also uses a flange driveshaft connection rather than a slip yoke requiring a custom slip joint driveshaft to be made. Then there is the exhaust. The 4.6 comes in 3 flavors, 2V, 3V and 4V, and the heads do not have universal header flanges, port shapes, so he is having to have block hugger headers made. Motor mounts and tranny mount is also an issue, as is coming up with a pedal and clutch, brake MC set.
In comparison my chevy sb 400 with T56 was a straight bolt in install in my 56 with just a few inexpensive easily sourced off the shelf parts.
In comparison my chevy sb 400 with T56 was a straight bolt in install in my 56 with just a few inexpensive easily sourced off the shelf parts.
Contact Chuck's Roadster Electrics (PM me if you need his contact info). He'll diet your harness and may know someone that can flash the computer. You can do it yourself with Quarter Horse (and others too) software. Tell him BJ sent ya.
#17
04-24-2015, 02:26 PM
#18
04-24-2015, 06:19 PM
Yep, I will keep looking. I have recorded almost every auction on TV and I see some pretty dang nice trucks going for far less than I expected. Maybe I will just wait for the next auction near me and get one done for what many are asking for semi done.
#19
04-25-2015, 02:17 PM
Always buy the best and most complete truck you can afford. It's always cheaper to buy than build, you can never get out of it what you put into it. Find and attend any/all the shows near to you as well, many of the vehicles being shown will be for sale, and you'll have less competition than at an auction. Don't be afraid to walk up to an owner of a truck not marked as for sale (always start by complimenting him on his good taste!) strike up a conversation about who built it and what was done to it (don't be surprised to find many owners did not build their truck, but bought it from someone else). This will give you some insight as to how well it was done and you'll start to understand the typical issues a particular year has in your area. End by asking him if he would consider selling it, and how much it would take to buy it. If he quotes you an unrealistic/above your budget price, it means he is really not ready to sell it yet. If he quotes you a high but realistic price start a negotiation by telling him you can't pay his price for it, would he consider a cash offer of... (somewhere about 50 - 60% of his asking price). At this point GENTLY point out areas you would want to do over/complete, and that you have to consider in your offer.
If you can't come to a price you would be interested in paying, or he says it is not for sale, have some simple business cards at the ready with you name and contact info on it, hand him one and ask him to give you a call if he ever changes his mind or decides he could come down some more. Thank him for his time, and walk away. You may be surprised to get a call in a few days after he has a chance to think about it. If not, you haven't lost anything, and gained some knowledge of the market.
If you can't come to a price you would be interested in paying, or he says it is not for sale, have some simple business cards at the ready with you name and contact info on it, hand him one and ask him to give you a call if he ever changes his mind or decides he could come down some more. Thank him for his time, and walk away. You may be surprised to get a call in a few days after he has a chance to think about it. If not, you haven't lost anything, and gained some knowledge of the market.
#20
04-29-2015, 01:56 PM
Good idea AXracer. I have been watching and recording all the auto auctions on TV. There are some dang nice restomod F1's crossing the line at far below what I am seeing some of these trucks advertized for on ebay and other places. I know some of these trucks cost more to do the work than they are selling for at Baretts or Mecom. Not that I want to spend $20K for a truck but you can get some REALLY nicely done trucks for $20K with frame off resto and highly custom and detailed engines.
#21
04-30-2015, 05:04 PM
Buying one already done ruins part of the fun though in my opinion. Just keep that in mind, and doing the work yourself really builds your skills and gives a great sense of accomplishment when she fires up and hums like a sewing machine. that part will make you proud at a show or cruise in! You'll also find if your truck has patina and not perfect it tends to be more popular (and useful)! Plus you get to buy some fun new tools along the way!
#22
05-03-2015, 01:24 PM
#23
05-03-2015, 04:02 PM
When I can buy a brand new 350 Chevy crate engine from Jeg's with a warranty for under $2000 versus rebuilding a Ford flathead V8 at the cost of $4000 or more, the cost difference is much greater than a few hundred bucks. Heck, I can rebuild a Chevy V8 for about $500 including machine shop costs. I doubt I will see that type of difference in selling price when it comes time to sell especially here in Michigan. To a few purists, perhaps. To the general population, doubtful. IMHO.
#24
05-03-2015, 04:18 PM
Always buy the best and most complete truck you can afford. It's always cheaper to buy than build, you can never get out of it what you put into it. Find and attend any/all the shows near to you as well, many of the vehicles being shown will be for sale, and you'll have less competition than at an auction. Don't be afraid to walk up to an owner of a truck not marked as for sale (always start by complimenting him on his good taste!) strike up a conversation about who built it and what was done to it (don't be surprised to find many owners did not build their truck, but bought it from someone else). This will give you some insight as to how well it was done and you'll start to understand the typical issues a particular year has in your area. End by asking him if he would consider selling it, and how much it would take to buy it. If he quotes you an unrealistic/above your budget price, it means he is really not ready to sell it yet. If he quotes you a high but realistic price start a negotiation by telling him you can't pay his price for it, would he consider a cash offer of... (somewhere about 50 - 60% of his asking price). At this point GENTLY point out areas you would want to do over/complete, and that you have to consider in your offer.
If you can't come to a price you would be interested in paying, or he says it is not for sale, have some simple business cards at the ready with you name and contact info on it, hand him one and ask him to give you a call if he ever changes his mind or decides he could come down some more. Thank him for his time, and walk away. You may be surprised to get a call in a few days after he has a chance to think about it. If not, you haven't lost anything, and gained some knowledge of the market.
If you can't come to a price you would be interested in paying, or he says it is not for sale, have some simple business cards at the ready with you name and contact info on it, hand him one and ask him to give you a call if he ever changes his mind or decides he could come down some more. Thank him for his time, and walk away. You may be surprised to get a call in a few days after he has a chance to think about it. If not, you haven't lost anything, and gained some knowledge of the market.
Advice I have always lived by. Most especially when dealing with anything used. Buy the most you can get for the money you have.
#25
05-03-2015, 07:17 PM
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When I can buy a brand new 350 Chevy crate engine from Jeg's with a warranty for under $2000 versus rebuilding a Ford flathead V8 at the cost of $4000 or more, the cost difference is much greater than a few hundred bucks. Heck, I can rebuild a Chevy V8 for about $500 including machine shop costs. I doubt I will see that type of difference in selling price when it comes time to sell especially here in Michigan. To a few purists, perhaps. To the general population, doubtful. IMHO.
If you really want a Chevy motor, by all means, please do as you wish. The OP is looking expressly for a Ford powered truck and is finding the Ford powered vehicles to be going for more money. I am only advising against settling for a SBC powered truck and then repowering it with a Ford. I am going through that with my own truck right now, so I have some insight about the practicality.
#26
05-04-2015, 12:54 PM
Being that these trucks were built 60+ years ago, the good ones are being held on to by their current owners and most will be sold/given to someone in the family afterwards. I had to settle for my 53 F100 with a Chevy 350. Yes, it runs and is more affordable to leave as is, but I'm putting a 351W in because its what I want to do with my money. I wouldn't get so hung up on what drivetrain is in these old trucks and be way more concerned with the condition of the frame and body. Mine still has the stock front suspension and a 9" in the rear. I was focused on a stock frame that hadnt been clipped as I would be concerned of what possible bad work was hidden. Anyway, just my opinion. Love the F series and keep them on the road, Ford or GM (or in some cases Chrysler) drivetrain.
#27
05-06-2015, 09:19 AM
This thread has made me wonder on my choice of powertrain for my 1949 F1. I'm looking for opinions regarding whether it would significantly increase the value of my truck having an flathead V8 engine over a more modern Ford powerplant. Right now it has a Chevy 283 which is tired and will need rebuilding or replacement when I do the restoration. Rebuilding or replacing the Chevy (with another Chevy) is the cheapest option but I also have a 239 flathead that I could use which needs rebuilding. This would cost me about $4000 to do. Buying a modern Ford engine new is almost double the cost of the Chevy as is rebuilding a Ford versus rebuilding a Chevy. Would the additional costs of the Ford or the Flathead be justified in resale value? I ask this because for me personally, it makes no difference so I am looking at the money spent vs the value for the dollars spent.
#28
05-06-2015, 09:28 AM
This thread has made me wonder on my choice of powertrain for my 1949 F1. I'm looking for opinions regarding whether it would significantly increase the value of my truck having an flathead V8 engine over a more modern Ford powerplant. Right now it has a Chevy 283 which is tired and will need rebuilding or replacement when I do the restoration. Rebuilding or replacing the Chevy (with another Chevy) is the cheapest option but I also have a 239 flathead that I could use which needs rebuilding. This would cost me about $4000 to do. Buying a modern Ford engine new is almost double the cost of the Chevy as is rebuilding a Ford versus rebuilding a Chevy. Would the additional costs of the Ford or the Flathead be justified in resale value? I ask this because for me personally, it makes no difference so I am looking at the money spent vs the value for the dollars spent.
#29
05-06-2015, 09:42 AM
I have restored many vehicles over my lifetime and eventually all ended up being sold as I moved on to other projects. Some I kept for many years while others I sold after only a few months. With this in mind, I always keep sale value vs cost in mind when I am restoring a vehicle. I am not "in love" with any single vehicle type or brand as I have a wide range of vehicles I like and own or have owned. I understand that value is what someone is willing to pay which is why I was asking for opinions which may help me with my decision. My final decision will only be known as correct or flawed when I sell the final product.
#30
05-06-2015, 11:18 AM
This thread has made me wonder on my choice of powertrain for my 1949 F1. I'm looking for opinions regarding whether it would significantly increase the value of my truck having an flathead V8 engine over a more modern Ford powerplant. Right now it has a Chevy 283 which is tired and will need rebuilding or replacement when I do the restoration. Rebuilding or replacing the Chevy (with another Chevy) is the cheapest option but I also have a 239 flathead that I could use which needs rebuilding. This would cost me about $4000 to do. Buying a modern Ford engine new is almost double the cost of the Chevy as is rebuilding a Ford versus rebuilding a Chevy. Would the additional costs of the Ford or the Flathead be justified in resale value? I ask this because for me personally, it makes no difference so I am looking at the money spent vs the value for the dollars spent.
If you are into restoration for making money I'm sure that there are safer ways to do it . . . like buying real estate or selling baby diapers.
I think that most of us do it because we enjoy working on these old trucks and the satisfaction when something that we do turns out right. I am guessing but I would bet that most on here have more invested in our truck that we will ever hope to see upon selling it.You should do whatever gives you the most satisfaction.