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'01 F-350 Loud injector chatter?

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  #16  
Old 04-24-2015, 08:47 PM
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One side down, One to go



This is No. 1 injector




This is No. 5 injector




Somebody obviously didn't know about the 50 cent fix!


I got one side finished today. Ran out of daylight. Going to tackle the other side in the morning. Glad I decided to go ahead and replace the O-rings. The lower ring on No. 1 and No. 5 were in terrible shape. Somebody had obliviously been in there before. They tried (without success) to zip tie the plug together. You can see it isn't plugged in all the way. It has George safely tucked under it now. Went ahead and replaced the glow plugs also while I had it apart. Can't wait to get the other side finished to see if it helps. Thanks for all the advice guys!
 
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:24 PM
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Orings condition looks identical to mine. None of my injectors had the black tarnish though. Only brown tarnish.
 
  #18  
Old 04-25-2015, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mrm8174
Is it ok to start the engine with the VCs off and the turbo tubes removed in order to warm it up for re-torque?
Yes. Just make sure that there is nothing near by that can get sucked into the the intake side.

Dorman o-rings may be ok, I use OE, but do not use anything other than OE glow plugs.
 
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jhl3
Dorman o-rings may be ok, I use OE, but do not use anything other than OE glow plugs.

I bought Motorcraft glow plugs.


I also bought Mobile One synthetic 5w-40 turbo diesel engine oil and a mobile one oil filter. I hope this will help also. After all the parts I bought, the oil and filter was the most expensive.
 
  #20  
Old 04-25-2015, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mechelement
Orings condition looks identical to mine. None of my injectors had the black tarnish though. Only brown tarnish.


How many miles on your injectors? Mine has 185,000 on them. I think I'm probably getting air in my fuel also. I am going to be doing the hutch mod soon. I hope this will solve my problem.
 
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:40 AM
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Also, depending upon how strong your LPOP is, you may want to put the VC's on with two bolts holding each down to contain the oil that the injectors are spitting out.

Put rags over the GP holes when you turn it over by hand for the first turn and turn very slowly. If you don't, you'll be surprised by how much oil and fuel come out and it is under a lot of pressure.
 
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Old 04-25-2015, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jhl3
Put rags over the GP holes when you turn it over by hand for the first turn and turn very slowly. If you don't, you'll be surprised by how much oil and fuel come out and it is under a lot of pressure.


Your not kidding! Put a rag over them and turned the engine slowly with a breaker bar, and all of a sudden it sounded like I had turned on a faucet for a quick second. Blew the rag out and on the ground! That's a lot of pressure!


Injectors back in and torqued. Found a few rocker hold downs that were about 1/4 turn from being torqued. Engine cylinders blown out. New glow plugs installed. Everything plugged in. George resting safely behind the plug. Rain !


Never fails. Almost finished and it rains.
 
  #23  
Old 04-25-2015, 09:11 AM
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Here is the turbo. Looks pretty clean and doesn't have any play in it. Anybody have any input on how it looks? Looks pretty good to me.
 
  #24  
Old 04-25-2015, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mrm8174
How many miles on your injectors? Mine has 185,000 on them. I think I'm probably getting air in my fuel also. I am going to be doing the hutch mod soon. I hope this will solve my problem.
169,200. Good point about air. Wouldn't the FRX handle that though? Is the hutch mod dropping the tank?
 
  #25  
Old 04-25-2015, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mechelement
169,200. Good point about air. Wouldn't the FRX handle that though? Is the hutch mod dropping the tank?
Yes. The hutch mod is removing the fuel tank and doing away with the in tank filters and re-routing the return line away from the sump. Most people add in a before pump filter also.
 
  #26  
Old 04-25-2015, 04:12 PM
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One blade on the wheel looks nicked, I'd replace it before something else goes wrong.
The wheel that is.
 
  #27  
Old 04-25-2015, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
One blade on the wheel looks nicked, I'd replace it before something else goes wrong.
The wheel that is.
I see that now. Your referring to the blade in the upper left of the picture I assume. Anybody know where a good place to get a new wheel is? Besides the dealer?
 
  #28  
Old 04-25-2015, 08:41 PM
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You started another thread and I answered you there.
 
  #29  
Old 04-25-2015, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jhl3
You started another thread and I answered you there.
I know. Thanks for your response.
 
  #30  
Old 04-25-2015, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mrm8174
I see that now. Your referring to the blade in the upper left of the picture I assume. Anybody know where a good place to get a new wheel is? Besides the dealer?
you do not need a new compressor wheel. if the nicks (i see 3) bother you, you could blend them with a file to remove stress risers.
 
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