The story so far: Bought a herd of cows last year to test the water on farming. I like so far. Decided to trade my Honda car for a 1999 F350 DRW 4x4 standard transmission manual transfer case 7.3 psd 370,000 miles. The dealership I traded at told me that the truck needs a new HPOP. I have the truck at my the farm and am ready to begin working on it. I've been lurking around and reading a lot of HPOP related threads... Might be that HPOP is not the answer. I'm looking for some help here guys. I got it to crank this afternoon and drove it about a mile. Cranking took about 15 seconds. I killed the truck several times, possibly because I'm not used to driving a manual, possibly because the motor is running very weak. I made it the mile or so down the road to my home, idled in my yard for 2-3 minutes, stalled out as I backed out to leave. Tried to crank, would not crank. Raised the hood and let sit for 5-10 minutes. Finally cranked and drove it back to the farm. The truck behaves exactly like the dealer said it would. Do I throw a $500 HPOP at the truck or can you guys walk me though some steps do better? There's a service ticket in the console, don't recall the exact wording, but I'll post it tomorrow. I think it said deadhead hpop test 340psi minimum 500psi for cranking recommend HPOP replacement. Any help would be appreciated guys. IF you read this monster of a post, thanks for your patience.

 

I don't think this is your problem. Although, a Service Bulletin describes Manually Equipped Transmissions may experience such stalling it the Tin Nut on the IPR is either loose or missing causing the electronic solenoid to slide on the IPR.


Next, do you have access to a Scanner which can monitor some variables? Can you borrow one? You'll need to monitor several areas to determine exactly what is going on.


Tom

 

I do not have access to a scan tool as of now, but I will ask around to see if any of my buddies do. I do have access to my dads 7.3 it's a 2002 srw automatic 2x4. It runs perfectly. I can use it to test parts as long as it's noting too invasive. (Don't want two trucks down). I will check the tin nut tomorrow after work.

 

Your use of the word "cranking" is a bit confusing, you said at one point it would not crank which indicates a battery/starter/connection issue but I am guessing you mean starting/running not cranking. Cranking is when the starter motor is rolling the engine over to get it started. So is it having trouble cranking or starting & running? or both? Makes it easier to help you when we are on the same page with terminology. If it is indeed having trouble cranking that should be addressed first. These trucks need a good supply of electrical power not only to start but to run right as well.

 

whitetmw - Tom and bigb56, thank you both for the quick responses. Bigb56, sorry for the wrong terms, I'm new at this and I appreciate the lesson. Cranking does not seem to be a problem. The motor is turning over well and despite the continuous cranking the batteries seem to be handling it well. It's the starting and running that are problematic. Once started idle seems fine, but once under load the motor dies, seems to be starved for fuel. Dealership said they changed oil, oil filter, air filter, and fuel filters.
-Floyd

 

With 370k your fuel pump may be taking a dump on ya!

Smokie

 

its been sit'n long enough, that it seems your not in a hurry to get ur on the road. Take some more downtime but use it to wrench on her. I'd rebuild the fuelbowl..(cabinet kit from riffraff), HUTCH mod, inspect the icp for oil on plug, inspect IPR tin nut and wiring, 50 CENT MOD,.....all are either free to look/work on or a small dent in wallet to have done by yourself, fishing for parts....IF you decide to fire it, with it idling, remove the oil cap and see if pressure is being expelled from oil fill tube..(smoke is ok, pressure=not ok)..good luck

 

Thanks Smokie and timmyboy26. I'm not ruling out anything (including fuel pump). I checked the tin nut on the IPR valve this morning, seems tight to me, couldn't budge it with my finger. I cranked on it for about 10 seconds and got it to start this morning. (Temp out side was around 60F) It had been sitting all night. Seemed to start easier. Ofcourse I killed it twice trying to move it to a better spot. It started quickly after it died the 2nd time. I do have time to wrench on the weekends and some afternoons. I'm looking to get it right without breaking the bank and I'm not in a bind to have it fixed ASAP or anything. My fear is throwing parts/money at it. I'll try to find someone around here to loan me a scan tool, if I can't... Guess $360 for an AE isn't the end of the world.

 

Android phone plus Torque app and a cheap fleabay ELM Bluetooth OBDII reader is a very economical first step into reading codes and sensors. Can't do tests like AE but just to read ICP etc it gets the job done.



Any smoke at startup?

Just a general check of fuel flow health... open the yellow drain valve on the back of the fuel bowl and key the power on to the fuel pump. No need to start. See if you get tablespoons or pints in the catch basin you put under the drain near the right front wheel.

 

Frambin, glad to hear you like farming, wonderful life isn't it? What do you have for cows?

Where are you located? Perhaps someone on here isn't too far away and could help you out with the scan tool end of the equation.

Baatzy

 

Unplugged the ICP sensor. The connector has oil in it. ? What now?

 

Answer is plain. Grab a new sensor and pigtail. Riffraff is a sponsor on this site unless someone insulted him too.




Easy fix and sounds like one gremlin that most dealership guys don't know about.


Definitely symptomatic from your descript.


With that mileage. I wouldn't wink.


Denny

 

BTW, if you unplug the sensor........and start it............what do we see?

 

Thanks aawlburninf350, baatzy, and Denny.
I didn't get a chance to pull the shielding off and inspect the wires in detail (rain moved in on me, also reason for previous short and rude post). I started the truck with the ICP disconnected, no easier to start, but service engine light did come on. Cleaned both sides of the connection to the icp with contact cleaner and compressed air then reconnected. No change, still difficult to start, but service engine light did go off. I opened the drain on the back of the fuel bowl, it ran fuel out slow but when I turned on the key it shot fuel down the valley toward the fire wall 6-8 inches. Fuel pooled in valley. (Guessing because I had it parked on an incline? Or should there be a hose that turns it down?)

On the scanner front: I think I'm going to just buy am elm off eBay. I don't have an android phone so I'm thinking is to a windows 8 laptop? Anybody care to recommend one? They seem reasonable on price. I'd like to order it tonight and get it overnighted for weekend work.

On the ICP replacenrbt front. I think Denny said riffraff. I'll check with them first. I'm guessing that the seals are bad in it and needs replaced. I'm totally fine with that, but I thought that unplugging it would allow the PCM (I think that's right) to run at factory preset and make it run better (relatively speaking). Possibly not my only problem?

On the cattle front: I got a herford bull and 29 cows. Mostly brangus, some beefmasteer, couple angus, couple jersey, and one jersey/Holstein. I know it's a dukes mixture, but poor boys got poor ways. It's a start for me. I also have a day job.

My son loves the "new" truck. Can't wait to take him pasture cruising.

Thanks guys
Floyd

 

Forgot to answer other questions:

Yes it puffs a small amount of black then white (maybe white then black) smoke at start up and the no more, even of you rev it up.

Flipped oil fill cap upside down on fill pipe with engine running, it vibrates a little with the motor, but seems like no pressure to. Does puff a little white smoke.

I'm in Nacogdoches county Texas