Still slow to start, 10-15 seconds of cranking. When it finally does it sounds very weak for about 2-3 seconds then sounds like every other 7.3 idle. Same as with it plugged in, only difference is that the service engine light is on if the icp isn't plugged in.

 

Doesn't sound like your ICP sensor. The light coming on with the sensor unplugged is the code for the sensor being unplugged. Not real sure what other data you're going to get from a code reader unless it can read live codes like the oil pressure coming from the HPOP.

Got access to any hydraulic gauges and fittings? You can make a mechanical gauge to check the HPOP if you've got a 3,000 psi or more gauge, some hydraulic hose and some fittings.

If you've got a long weekend available, you could also swap the HPOP from the other truck in to rule things out. Just be sure to order new fuel line sleeves for the fuel bowl for both trucks and have some RTV on hand for putting things back together.

 

That's what I was thinking. I do think that I should replace ICP sensor, but the sensor and pig tail is going to run $200 from riffraff. All reviews indicate that it's a fair price and a quality product, but money is tight. I really need to spend my cash getting this beast running well. I just ordered these products as diagnostic tools:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-1-Quad-Core-Google-Android-4-4-Bluetooth-HDMI-CAMERA-Mid-Tablet-PC-8GB-1GB-/111647838762?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19febad22a
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Vehicle-Mount-Windshield-Dash-Holder-for-LG-G-Pad-7-0-8-3-10-1-inches-/351372528172?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cf6f4a2c
Total about $100. not bad compared to the $350 for AE. Plus I'll re-gift the tablet to my son come Christmas... becuase I'm a cheapskate

Swapping HPOPs between the two trucks... date on the door sticker of my truck says 01/99 My dads is a 2002. would there be any issues with 15* or 17* swash plate (correct term?) Also what are the odds I screw up and have 2 non functional 7.3s?

 

fram, personally...i'd leave your father's rig alone. Im thinking the difference in hpop's would also be a difference in pcm communications. Leave the dads rig alone until you get your goodies and see whats going on. BTW, with the amount of posts, cant recall if you or someone mentioned it, but, hows the oil level?

 

Thanks Timmy. The oil appears to be in the middle between the full and low marks on the dip stick. Would posting a YouTube video of the vehicle cracking and slow/hard start be helpful? If so, what should I focus on or be certain to include?

 

I'm using a Cheepie 8" HiSense tablet and the Bluetooth Bafx OBD dongle and it works good. Once you get all your new goodies in place, Buy Torque Pro and load it onto your Tab. Do yourself a favor and don't put anything else on it until you get comfortable with the software.... Not a steep learning curve, just not a whole lot of instruction on how to fire it up and do the setup/GPS/bluetooth Etc. Plenty of help here to get u there.......

 

If you had oil in the ICP sensor, (On the drivers side head), then it need to be replaced. That oil in there will cause bad readings. It should be dry.

 

Update: taking corrugated wire covers off and inspecting the wires and found that the wires to the IPR have been spliced. There's bare copper wire showing on the yellow wire. I'm going try to straighten it up and see what happens.



Sorry for the terrible photo.

 

Re spliced the IPR valve pigtail. No change. Took IPR solenoid off, it looked new so I rechecked the service report from the dealer. It says they replaced the IPR valve. So that's new. Will continue to check wiring over the weekend.

 

Been doing more reading and research.... Could a bad o ring on an injector or multiple injectors cause my high oil pressure to drop? If a ring(s) were pissing oil into the valve covers, would it make sense that once the engine is warm (and the oil thinner) it would hemorrhage larger volumes of oil? That would further lower the IPC pressures and explain why it gets worse when warm? Help me out, the HPO system operates 500-3000psi? But what kind of volume? If it's a relatively small volume, then a not so large leak would be effect the pressure greatly? I think my reasoning is sound.... maybe.... Regardless, I'm thinking about pulling the valve covers tomorrow and cranking the truck to see if I got any volcanos spewing oil everywhere. Thoughts? Opinions?

 

Got my new toys. Android with torque and Bluetooth obdII unit. Ran it a little today. Seems that the hoop pressures are low and get lower while ipr% climbs until it's at 65% with any significant peddle. Tried to log it but screwed up and deleted it. Guess that's what I get trying to learn to operate an android phone and torque app on the same day. It seems pretty user friendly thiugh. Any advice on what PIDS I need to monitor?

 

I'm in the same boat there. Just started playing with mine this afternoon for a couple of minutes.

There's a ton of PIDs here though

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rque+pro+setup

 

Frambin! when you get into this computer stuff for our trucks you need to get Tugly into this fray! He seems to know this stuff pretty well! But thats JMO:


Smokie

 

Framblin, take it one step at a time,get familiar with your buttons and TP windows and settings. Your Hpop will only be at 700-800+ at idle, it doesn't start climbing until you start driving down the road. Read up on all the Torque pro threads and play with them for a while. Set your gauges up 1-2 at a time. using the Pre loaded PID's first, until you get comfortable with what your seeing....Then go hog wild.

 

I been toying with it as I can. Son,wife, and work have been keeping me pretty busy. It seems to me that the longer the truck runs the higher the IPR (duty cycle?) Tops at 65% and the lower the IPC pressure becomes. I'd like to log several pids and post it. I already messaged Tully about it (thanks Smokie), buy all suggestions and info are welcome. What all should I log? IPC,ipr,rpm,eot,ect,throttle position,gear,...etc