Need pictures of engine bay, emissions diagram 1993 F250 Gas
#1
Need pictures of engine bay, emissions diagram 1993 F250 Gas
1993 F-250 5.8 Gas engine Not sure if Fed or CA emissions
Hello, I loaned my truck to my brother and did not get it back for over a year. When I got it back, it had the MIL on. Upon inspection, I saw that two small diameter (about 1/8") hard plastic hoses were cut and crimped. (He said a repair shop could not fix a problem and they just cut the hoses off) There is a black container with a rounded front on the left side of the engine with 4 places (in the front of the container) where the hoses seem to go, all 4 places with hoses cut off, two on top and two on the bottom. I do not know where the two cut/crimped hoses go (top or bottom on the container) or where the other two cut hoses go to. (I would think they are return hoses. They obviously need to go somewhere).
There is also a vaccum-looking hose coming from the air intake tubes near the front of the throttle body that was simply cut off. I could also not find where it could go. It wasn't pulling ait but rather expelling it, for now I just plugged it off. I recently pulled an empty 16 ft. "v" front trailer for about 600 miles and averaged about 7-8 mpg's. Seems awfully low.
I have a Hayne's book but has been of no help. Pictures of an actual engine bay would help a lot. If you can direct me to a web site with diagrams, that would also help. I would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you. MMA
Hello, I loaned my truck to my brother and did not get it back for over a year. When I got it back, it had the MIL on. Upon inspection, I saw that two small diameter (about 1/8") hard plastic hoses were cut and crimped. (He said a repair shop could not fix a problem and they just cut the hoses off) There is a black container with a rounded front on the left side of the engine with 4 places (in the front of the container) where the hoses seem to go, all 4 places with hoses cut off, two on top and two on the bottom. I do not know where the two cut/crimped hoses go (top or bottom on the container) or where the other two cut hoses go to. (I would think they are return hoses. They obviously need to go somewhere).
There is also a vaccum-looking hose coming from the air intake tubes near the front of the throttle body that was simply cut off. I could also not find where it could go. It wasn't pulling ait but rather expelling it, for now I just plugged it off. I recently pulled an empty 16 ft. "v" front trailer for about 600 miles and averaged about 7-8 mpg's. Seems awfully low.
I have a Hayne's book but has been of no help. Pictures of an actual engine bay would help a lot. If you can direct me to a web site with diagrams, that would also help. I would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you. MMA
#2
Welcome to FTE, Hawkeye.
Sorry you're having problems caused by mechanics who don't have a clue. The hard plastic hoses are vac lines that crumble with age & are critical for the engine to function correctly. Your homework assignment for today is to learn how to pull codes from the computer so you can isolate what to look for.
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
Here is my 94 5.8 to get you started, similar but maybe not exact.
Sorry you're having problems caused by mechanics who don't have a clue. The hard plastic hoses are vac lines that crumble with age & are critical for the engine to function correctly. Your homework assignment for today is to learn how to pull codes from the computer so you can isolate what to look for.
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
Here is my 94 5.8 to get you started, similar but maybe not exact.
#3
When he said left I think he is talking about the right side of the engine bay.
The round item that looks like a juice can is a vacuum tank.
Left and right sides are the driver left and right while seated in the drivers seat.
The drivers side is the left side in the USA.
If it is the vacuum tank that would mean no vacuum to the EGR solenoid and the air pump solenoids. Missing vacuum to those solenoids would turn on the MIL.
The emissions diagram should be under the hood.
The round item that looks like a juice can is a vacuum tank.
Left and right sides are the driver left and right while seated in the drivers seat.
The drivers side is the left side in the USA.
If it is the vacuum tank that would mean no vacuum to the EGR solenoid and the air pump solenoids. Missing vacuum to those solenoids would turn on the MIL.
The emissions diagram should be under the hood.
#4
Scndsin, awesome clear pictures! Thanks so much for the responses, especially so fast.
Unfortunately, my truck is not set up like that. Even the vacuum hose coming out of the intake air duct in front of the TB is not there. I will take pictures and try to post them. I actually hooked up a scanner to the truck and got a bunch of codes. I figured that I would have to fix the cut-off hose issue before I started to deal with the remaining codes, if any. The canister in question is on the left side of the engine, when standing in front of it, or as Subford points out, the right side of the vehicle. It is in fact, right in front of the EGR valve, kind of under the muffler looking piece without a hose, in the picture. The emissions diagram is indeed on the underside of the hood but could not figure it out. I will take another look although a picture would help. Thanks for the welcome as well.
Unfortunately, my truck is not set up like that. Even the vacuum hose coming out of the intake air duct in front of the TB is not there. I will take pictures and try to post them. I actually hooked up a scanner to the truck and got a bunch of codes. I figured that I would have to fix the cut-off hose issue before I started to deal with the remaining codes, if any. The canister in question is on the left side of the engine, when standing in front of it, or as Subford points out, the right side of the vehicle. It is in fact, right in front of the EGR valve, kind of under the muffler looking piece without a hose, in the picture. The emissions diagram is indeed on the underside of the hood but could not figure it out. I will take another look although a picture would help. Thanks for the welcome as well.
#5
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#9
The red hoses on the left side of the vacuum canister are straight vacuum directly from the engine. There was a single line from the engine that had a splice in it right near the canister, and it splits off one leg to the top, one leg to the bottom.
I have the same tank on mine. The top right on mine was white, and went back to the egr sensor area.
I don't remember where the bottom went to. But I can check tomorrow, however I have a 95 460..
Also, take your truck to Ford and have them take care of the cruise control switch recall before it burns your truck down. Yes they're still active, and it's free.
I have the same tank on mine. The top right on mine was white, and went back to the egr sensor area.
I don't remember where the bottom went to. But I can check tomorrow, however I have a 95 460..
Also, take your truck to Ford and have them take care of the cruise control switch recall before it burns your truck down. Yes they're still active, and it's free.
#10
What it should look like, Hawkeye, you need this done:
#12
Dang it, I spent a good deal of time on a response and it got lost when I went to post the pictures.
Thank you all for the responses. Hopefully D R of D can post the picture to see if his set up is similar to mine. As can be seen, the crimped hoses are white and black. Thanks also for the heads up on the cruise control issue. Mine looks different than the set up in the picture but my truck does have cruise control.
Scndcin, the A/C worked last time I had it but it no longer does. The heater does work. The codes are as follows:
328: EGR (EVP) Voltage below closed limit
172: EGO not switching Lean exhaust Bank-1
327: EGR EVP pressure feedback EGR (PFE) / Delta pressure feedback EGR (DPFE) signal too low
332: EGR valve not opening
Other non-engine (oh boy)
536: Brake on / off (B00) circuit fault
617: 1-2 shifter error
618: 2-3 shifter error
628: Excessive converter clutch slippage
Thank you all for the responses. Hopefully D R of D can post the picture to see if his set up is similar to mine. As can be seen, the crimped hoses are white and black. Thanks also for the heads up on the cruise control issue. Mine looks different than the set up in the picture but my truck does have cruise control.
Scndcin, the A/C worked last time I had it but it no longer does. The heater does work. The codes are as follows:
328: EGR (EVP) Voltage below closed limit
172: EGO not switching Lean exhaust Bank-1
327: EGR EVP pressure feedback EGR (PFE) / Delta pressure feedback EGR (DPFE) signal too low
332: EGR valve not opening
Other non-engine (oh boy)
536: Brake on / off (B00) circuit fault
617: 1-2 shifter error
618: 2-3 shifter error
628: Excessive converter clutch slippage
#13
Here's the deal Hawk. MILs & most extra horrible mileage/power issues (other than towing) in the presence of the EGR codes are either vac leaks & computer stratagies trying to compensate for stuff the ECU doesn't "see" happening. There are a lot of opinions here on how to deal, so I offer you mine only.
The ECU is "looking" for movement in the EGR valve (by way of a sensor) & it doesn't "see" it. It does not move (most likely) since the vacuum operated valve doesn't have any vacuum to run the valve. The reservoir/hoses/valves themselves are all suspect in your case. The first thing the ECU does is fatten up the fuel curve making you use more fuel for less gain.
I'd concentrate on getting the EGR plumbed. Between the diagram you have on the truck & your Haynes you should be able to cobble a decent vac circuit between the EGR & the EGR solenoid. (front one of 3 on driver's side lower intake)
The 172 I believe is the thermactor/air-injection. The ECU only cares about this at startup/warmup & doesn't care afterward.
I have no idea what to tell you a bout that reservoir tank. It needs to be hooked up to provide a constant vac source for every thing else.
Regarding the HVAC, what I meant to ask is does the air flow switch when you change the position from defrost to vent to floor? That control function is vacuum operated and dependent on the reservoir.
The trans codes are a whole other can of worms. I suggest a bottle of Lucas Trans Fix & reset the ECU...
Won't be able to help much more for the next week. Good luck
The ECU is "looking" for movement in the EGR valve (by way of a sensor) & it doesn't "see" it. It does not move (most likely) since the vacuum operated valve doesn't have any vacuum to run the valve. The reservoir/hoses/valves themselves are all suspect in your case. The first thing the ECU does is fatten up the fuel curve making you use more fuel for less gain.
I'd concentrate on getting the EGR plumbed. Between the diagram you have on the truck & your Haynes you should be able to cobble a decent vac circuit between the EGR & the EGR solenoid. (front one of 3 on driver's side lower intake)
The 172 I believe is the thermactor/air-injection. The ECU only cares about this at startup/warmup & doesn't care afterward.
I have no idea what to tell you a bout that reservoir tank. It needs to be hooked up to provide a constant vac source for every thing else.
Regarding the HVAC, what I meant to ask is does the air flow switch when you change the position from defrost to vent to floor? That control function is vacuum operated and dependent on the reservoir.
The trans codes are a whole other can of worms. I suggest a bottle of Lucas Trans Fix & reset the ECU...
Won't be able to help much more for the next week. Good luck
#14
Scndsin, thank you for the tips. I plan to spend some time going over the vacuum diagrams this Saturday. I've looked the diagrams in the Hayne's and would swear they only show a carbureted 5.8. I hope to make sense of the underhood diagram. I will try the a/c vent flow as well. I have not noticed transmission slippage but will drop the Lucas additive, given the codes. Thanks again and take care. MMA
#15
Maybe you could post a photo of your under hood diagram and we can help you with the vacuum lines.
Or if you have a calibration number on the drivers door post maybe we could look up you vacuum diagram.
The calibration number in the photo below is "0-98A-R05" but yours would be more like "3-64G-R00".
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Or if you have a calibration number on the drivers door post maybe we could look up you vacuum diagram.
The calibration number in the photo below is "0-98A-R05" but yours would be more like "3-64G-R00".
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