Just as a possible help to you, Here in my garage I keep an old Tractor inner tube for events such as this. It's thicker than a bike tube and big enough that I can cut strips out for days. I used it to mount both of my tanks, no glue. Once I bolted them down, the rubber no longer moves.

Go to a tire shop and see if they have any old tubes. Even a car tube would work.

 

Just an idea but if you sleeve the inside of the hose and squash it you want to use stainless or aluminum so you don't get future rust.

 

Thanks for the tip on the tubes... Looks like that will have to wait as all the local shops that deal with bigger tubed tires are closed until Monday.

I am not going to sleeve this. I decided thats a solution to a problem that doesnt exist. But the tank itself is zinc coated steel.... Similar to exhaust tubing. So that would work.

 

Tonight's update... Sourced the rubber. Cost about $11 for more than enough. Used some black permatex RTV as an adhesive. It's made for automotive weatherstripping and has worked well for me in the past. Glad I waited until finding the right stuff rather than patching this with inner tubes or something. I feel like after all the effort I have put in to making this nice I couldn't stomach it coming out looking crappy. Finish the bottom tommorrow or the next day.

 

It looks like you're doing a thorough job. If there is any inaccuracy in the fuel gauge, this would be a good time to do a recalibration of the tank unit.

 

I hadn't previously noticed an issue with the gauge being off... But you are right that now is the time to check it. Any insights as to how this is done?

 

Tried to answer this question myself... Seems simple enough; remove from the tank, hook up, and verify gauge reads correct. Adjust if it's off. Only problem is this unit has no adjusting screw. Wondering if I should bother with it.

Yes it's extra work but work the double check.

 

With the tank unit installed in the tank & connected by wire & ground, invert the tank. The gauge should read near full. Then put the tank in its normal configuration. The gauge should read near empty. If any small changes are needed the wire arm holding the float can be bent carefully. Then recheck. When all is correct be sure the float is not leaking (if it was leaking there would be some fuel inside); then you can proceed with your other restoration steps. It looks good.

 

Thanks for the tip... Rather not remove the sending unit since it has been seated into the tank. Will run some wires while its in the bed to test.

I did the bottom today. Not much to see here other that the repurposing of some new rotors I haven't installed just yet.

Going to touch up the bottom once I get it mounted.

 

my dad claims that it is almost impossible to siphon gas out a 1973-79 with the round gas hole. but think there might be a guard in my tank.

 

It would take me about 5 seconds to shove a hose down into a tank. Any thief that knows anything about the plumbing on most older vehicles knows this as well.

 

Tested the gauge. OPs check good. Simply ran a bit of speaker wire from the tank in the bed to the hook-ups underneath. Flipped the tank over. Worked like a charm.

 

Final install complete. Can't tell I did anything but paint.



The filler hose is barely squished as it goes through the frame/bed gap. I had been having some back pressure during fill-ups making it a slower process to allow fuel time to drain into the tank. Hopefully with the hose left open a little more than it was this will improved.

 

It looks like a great job completed. Perhaps someday mine will be that good.

 

Looks very clean. You should not have any back pressure issues. I don't and mine is a 38 gallon unit. I did notice on mine that the gas gauge jumps around a bit after the install. I'm blaming that on the aftermarket gauge. Back to yours. Great job!