What's it worth?
#31
03-29-2015, 10:40 PM
Join Date: Mar 2015
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Good: the repair patch panels for the cab corners and the rockers are made. Depends on how much rust there is and how much body work you are willing to do, or pay someone else to do ($$$) Repop doors (also $$$) are available (check the door bottoms for rust of frames and/or outer skins. Used, repop, and/or NOS body parts and repair pieces are fairly available but can get pricey.
Bad: Most difficult to repair potential rust zones are above roof gutters along body seam above rear window, around top and under rubber molding at bottom of windshield, repair panels must be custom made, difficult multilayer areas. Rust out is the most expensive and time consuming part of rebuilding these trucks. I can do my own body work and teach it, but I went to NM to buy a rust free truck. IMHO if rust thru extends more than a couple inches up from bottom you may want to keep looking for a better example, especially if you don't have shop you can tie up for several years, don't want to learn to do body work.
Front fenders for F250 are not reproduced, repair panels for fender lower edge are available but not area above headlights, or front of hood. Shorty flatbed running boards are not repoped, check carefully over diagonal stiffening ribs, Also check floor for repairs/rust especially if the under floor battery box is rusted away.
Unless you plan on rebuilding/using it I wouldn't worry about condition of engine, tranny, or rear end or assign any value to them if you will be replacing/upgrading (likely if you plan on doing any more driving than occasional short local commutes, expect your SO to drive it.)
Out of state title transfer in NC requires DMV officer to inspect paperwork and truck to verify papers are complete, match frame serial #, run in stolen vehicle data base. If the title was not officially transferred to the current seller that will complicate process immensely. Glove box plate is nice to have, but is not legal ID. Serial # has a lot of info coded into it, post the number and we can decode it for you.
Reality check: rebuilding into a safe dependable vehicle (nothing fancy, just drivable) will cost minimum of $10 - 15K, consume 3 - 10 years of intense work. Having to hire out the work will multiply time and money 3-4X. You will NEVER get your money back. Best recommendation is to buy the most complete drivable vehicle you can find, and let someone else take the hit, you cannot build as cheap as you can buy someone else's project. especially if you would rather spend your time driving it rather than working on it. It's a MAJOR commitment be sure you are up for it before jumping in.
PM me (click on my user name at top of this post, select send PM from the drop down menu) your email addy and I will send you info on the workshop.
Bad: Most difficult to repair potential rust zones are above roof gutters along body seam above rear window, around top and under rubber molding at bottom of windshield, repair panels must be custom made, difficult multilayer areas. Rust out is the most expensive and time consuming part of rebuilding these trucks. I can do my own body work and teach it, but I went to NM to buy a rust free truck. IMHO if rust thru extends more than a couple inches up from bottom you may want to keep looking for a better example, especially if you don't have shop you can tie up for several years, don't want to learn to do body work.
Front fenders for F250 are not reproduced, repair panels for fender lower edge are available but not area above headlights, or front of hood. Shorty flatbed running boards are not repoped, check carefully over diagonal stiffening ribs, Also check floor for repairs/rust especially if the under floor battery box is rusted away.
Unless you plan on rebuilding/using it I wouldn't worry about condition of engine, tranny, or rear end or assign any value to them if you will be replacing/upgrading (likely if you plan on doing any more driving than occasional short local commutes, expect your SO to drive it.)
Out of state title transfer in NC requires DMV officer to inspect paperwork and truck to verify papers are complete, match frame serial #, run in stolen vehicle data base. If the title was not officially transferred to the current seller that will complicate process immensely. Glove box plate is nice to have, but is not legal ID. Serial # has a lot of info coded into it, post the number and we can decode it for you.
Reality check: rebuilding into a safe dependable vehicle (nothing fancy, just drivable) will cost minimum of $10 - 15K, consume 3 - 10 years of intense work. Having to hire out the work will multiply time and money 3-4X. You will NEVER get your money back. Best recommendation is to buy the most complete drivable vehicle you can find, and let someone else take the hit, you cannot build as cheap as you can buy someone else's project. especially if you would rather spend your time driving it rather than working on it. It's a MAJOR commitment be sure you are up for it before jumping in.
PM me (click on my user name at top of this post, select send PM from the drop down menu) your email addy and I will send you info on the workshop.
My initial plan was to just get a truck so I could use it locally. The dump is 2 miles from the house. My parents are just down the road, etc. So I hope I'm able to get this running with little time and money and just use the truck lightly for the time being. I don't have to worry about my fiance driving it.
If/when the time comes to really get into it, I'll consider if I want to pony up the cash, or buy one already built.I edited the post for clarity. He will be verifying the vin on the framerail matches the one in the glovebox/on title. I'll try to get the vin tomorrow for decoding purposes. Thanks again.
#32
03-30-2015, 05:48 PM
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#33
03-30-2015, 06:40 PM
Regarding the serial number in the frame, yes it is indeed seen from the top, in the engine compartment.
NOTE: THESE PICTURES ARE OF A 1956 F100
Looking over the fender, passenger side behind axle.
Looking from the R/F (between headlight and radiator, toward the firewall. The little flashlight on the frame is shining on the serial number
#34
03-30-2015, 06:41 PM
That's right. 4.88 rear that's why you won't go very fast. 1st is a creeper/stump puller, have to upshift in about 30 ft. Non syncro 3 speed so you need to double clutch a lot, no rolling stops. That same number (~ 3/8" high characters with a star before and after) should be stamped on TOP of the passenger side frame rail usually ~ 4" in front of the firewall. It's not stamped very deep so sometimes usinga strong bright light (more than a flashlight) held jut above the frame so the beam washes across the surface of the frame may make it easier to see. He can also try washing the top of the frame with a rag soaked in acetone/lacquer thinner will help as well. Mine was hidden by paint until I wiped with acetone. Just to make it fun, Ford was not real strict where the number was stamped so sometimes they were stamped next to or on top the front crossmember. crawling under will not make it easier to find/see.
#36
03-30-2015, 06:51 PM
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Fun times indeed! I'm sending him this picture so he knows where the general location is.
Next thing to figure out is transport. I plan on using my dad's 97 f150 4x4 and a car carrier. The uhaul site is cool with it if I say it's a 1955 f100. It doesn't like the f250 and the 97's anemic abilities though.
Next thing to figure out is transport. I plan on using my dad's 97 f150 4x4 and a car carrier. The uhaul site is cool with it if I say it's a 1955 f100. It doesn't like the f250 and the 97's anemic abilities though.
#38
03-30-2015, 07:10 PM
Fun times indeed! I'm sending him this picture so he knows where the general location is.
Next thing to figure out is transport. I plan on using my dad's 97 f150 4x4 and a car carrier. The uhaul site is cool with it if I say it's a 1955 f100. It doesn't like the f250 and the 97's anemic abilities though.
Next thing to figure out is transport. I plan on using my dad's 97 f150 4x4 and a car carrier. The uhaul site is cool with it if I say it's a 1955 f100. It doesn't like the f250 and the 97's anemic abilities though.
#39
03-30-2015, 09:05 PM
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#40
04-01-2015, 12:11 AM
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OK.
Found a little more info on the title. He has the physical title in his posession. It was signed over to him from the guy he bought it from. No notary present. He never sent it off to the DMV or any of that, and I don't think he's ever tried to plate the truck or insure it.
Is it going to be an issue if I buy it from him??? Going to use this Bill of Sale: http://www.dmv.org/images/bill-of-sale.pdf. And we are going to find a notary.
I'll be calling him tomorrow morning to verify he has found the serial on the frame before I do anything else. If that's good, and the titling isn't an issue, I'll be renting a car trailer and crossing my fingers the truck checks out in person.
Sorry for all the questions. I just want to cover my bases.
Found a little more info on the title. He has the physical title in his posession. It was signed over to him from the guy he bought it from. No notary present. He never sent it off to the DMV or any of that, and I don't think he's ever tried to plate the truck or insure it.
Is it going to be an issue if I buy it from him??? Going to use this Bill of Sale: http://www.dmv.org/images/bill-of-sale.pdf. And we are going to find a notary.
I'll be calling him tomorrow morning to verify he has found the serial on the frame before I do anything else. If that's good, and the titling isn't an issue, I'll be renting a car trailer and crossing my fingers the truck checks out in person.
Sorry for all the questions. I just want to cover my bases.
#41
04-01-2015, 07:12 AM
OK.
Found a little more info on the title. He has the physical title in his posession. It was signed over to him from the guy he bought it from. No notary present. He never sent it off to the DMV or any of that, and I don't think he's ever tried to plate the truck or insure it.
Is it going to be an issue if I buy it from him??? Going to use this Bill of Sale: http://www.dmv.org/images/bill-of-sale.pdf. And we are going to find a notary.
I'll be calling him tomorrow morning to verify he has found the serial on the frame before I do anything else. If that's good, and the titling isn't an issue, I'll be renting a car trailer and crossing my fingers the truck checks out in person.
Sorry for all the questions. I just want to cover my bases.
Found a little more info on the title. He has the physical title in his posession. It was signed over to him from the guy he bought it from. No notary present. He never sent it off to the DMV or any of that, and I don't think he's ever tried to plate the truck or insure it.
Is it going to be an issue if I buy it from him??? Going to use this Bill of Sale: http://www.dmv.org/images/bill-of-sale.pdf. And we are going to find a notary.
I'll be calling him tomorrow morning to verify he has found the serial on the frame before I do anything else. If that's good, and the titling isn't an issue, I'll be renting a car trailer and crossing my fingers the truck checks out in person.
Sorry for all the questions. I just want to cover my bases.
STOP, do not pass go, do not collect $200...
This is a recipe for rejection at the DMV. This is what is known as 'title jumping' Once his name is on that title, he can NOT transfer it without having a NEW title issued in HIS name by the state. If the title is signed and left blank for the buyers name, the NOTARIZED BOS has to be signed by the person whose name appears as the Seller on the title. (And it that can be arranged, I would make sure that I met that person face to face, along with the Notary and verified BOTH of their ID's) The only way a BOS signed by someone other than the person named on the title is when when it is accompanied by a death certificate and probate papers or a power of attorney.
I went through a similar issue when I bought Edith, the guy had a NC title signed over to him and tried to give me a bill of sale. Having been a police officer for 25 years, I knew what would happen next, a quick call to the county clerk in TN and he was satisfied that he had to register the truck in GA and then sign the GA paperwork over to me, along with a BOS and we were good to go. It all boils down to tax money. He never paid the state the sales tax on the truck.
If it were me, I'd tell him to get a NEW title in his name and then sign it over to you, or no deal. Believe me it is NOT worth the headache!
#43
04-01-2015, 08:44 AM
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Lol, this poor guy can't find the serial anywhere. Says he can't see the entire frame from under the hood. The fenders are obscuring it? I'll get a couple pictures from him, but I don't know what else to tell him.
I wonder if he could remove the tire and possibly see it.
Edit: He just found it. Didn't seem to see any star like symbols.
2nd EDIT: He apparently did transfer title. He misunderstood my previous question. He said he went to the dmv with the original title, signed by him and the seller, and they immediately issued him a title right there. He's sending me a picture of the title, and only his name is up there. In NC, I've always had to wait for a title to go up to Raleigh(or wherever main office is) and then sent back to me via mail.
I wonder if he could remove the tire and possibly see it.
Edit: He just found it. Didn't seem to see any star like symbols.
2nd EDIT: He apparently did transfer title. He misunderstood my previous question. He said he went to the dmv with the original title, signed by him and the seller, and they immediately issued him a title right there. He's sending me a picture of the title, and only his name is up there. In NC, I've always had to wait for a title to go up to Raleigh(or wherever main office is) and then sent back to me via mail.
#44
04-01-2015, 12:54 PM
Lol, this poor guy can't find the serial anywhere. Says he can't see the entire frame from under the hood. The fenders are obscuring it? I'll get a couple pictures from him, but I don't know what else to tell him.
I wonder if he could remove the tire and possibly see it.
Edit: He just found it. Didn't seem to see any star like symbols.
2nd EDIT: He apparently did transfer title. He misunderstood my previous question. He said he went to the dmv with the original title, signed by him and the seller, and they immediately issued him a title right there. He's sending me a picture of the title, and only his name is up there. In NC, I've always had to wait for a title to go up to Raleigh(or wherever main office is) and then sent back to me via mail.
I wonder if he could remove the tire and possibly see it.
Edit: He just found it. Didn't seem to see any star like symbols.
2nd EDIT: He apparently did transfer title. He misunderstood my previous question. He said he went to the dmv with the original title, signed by him and the seller, and they immediately issued him a title right there. He's sending me a picture of the title, and only his name is up there. In NC, I've always had to wait for a title to go up to Raleigh(or wherever main office is) and then sent back to me via mail.
#45
04-01-2015, 01:40 PM
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I am from NC and purchased a 52 F1 from out of state. The title I got was for a 52 F2??? Also, the numbers on the frame were sanded away from sandblasting. I ended up getting a new VIN issued to me from NC DMV and getting a new title via Indemnity Bond. It is a long process but in the end you will be able to register it and drive it on the road. Bottom line is if you can't find the vin one the frame or body (a reproduced plate will not work), you will need to go the route I did.
With all that said - I would hold off and find the F100 you really want. As AX mentioned previously, you are going to be spending a lot of time and money making the truck safe and drivable... then after all your hard work you will sell and start over?.
-Gary
With all that said - I would hold off and find the F100 you really want. As AX mentioned previously, you are going to be spending a lot of time and money making the truck safe and drivable... then after all your hard work you will sell and start over?.
-Gary