Hey Guys,

I just adjusted my clutch pedal travel on my 1950 F1 Panel. I know the "procedure" is in the shop manual, but it is a little cryptic (for example, it says adjust the clevis until the clutch pedal travel is about 1-1/2", but it doesn't say which way to adjust it.)

Having now done it on mine I thought I would pass on my experience for the other newbies.

Make sure you have chocks behind the rear wheels if the truck is not on jack stands. I am poor and have no lift, but I don't want to be run over while I am under it.

My clutch pedal travel was around 4" when the spec says about 1-1/2". I crawled under the truck, pulled the locking clip off of the clevis pin and pulled the clevis pin out. I knew I neded to turn the clevis counterclockwise to shorten the free travel on the pedal itself. But I couldn't turn the clevis because the arm that connects the clevis to the cross shaft was in the way. It was impossible to turn the cross shaft to move the arm manually, even with my biggest slip joint pliers. I finally moved the cross shaft arm just enough to allow me to adjust the clevis. There is probably a better way to move the cross shaft arm out of the way.

Unscrew the clevis slightly maybe two or three turns, and reconnect the clevis to the cross shaft arm, without the locking clip. Try the pedal inside the cab with a tape measure. Measure between the pedal pad to the floor. Keep doing this until it is in specs. It doesn't take much to make a big difference in the pedal travel. Make sure you still have enough threads connecting the rod to the clevis so it can't pull out. To get mine from 4 inches free travel to 1-1/2 inches free travel took four complete turns of the clevis.

Put it back together and make sure to put the locking clip back on the clevis pin.

Although my clutch is fine, I suspect I may be replacing it soon. There are not enough threads in the clevis shank to allow me to back it out further to adjust the free travel any more.

I have never done a clutch before. It might not be doable without a lift and other specialized equipment.

 

Thanks for passing it along Joe!

 

You really don't need to have the engine running to adjust the clutch "free travel". Free travel is the travel of the pedal without your foot on it until the throwout bearing touches the clutch fingers. You will notice the difference in pressure required to depress the pedal further.

Lengthening the rod will reduce the free travel. So you will want to turn the clevis counter-clockwise (looking at it from the front of the vehicle).

Also you might want to check the length of your threaded clutch adjusting rod. I have a new one that I just measures and it is 5" long end to end.

 

Thanks Pete,

I had to re-read my post to see where I gave you the idea that I thought the engine had to be running to adjust the clutch pedal free travel. It must have been when I mentioned chocks behind the wheels. I work on my truck on a sloped driveway. When the tranny i out of gear, I don't like to rely on the parking brake to keep it from rolling back while I am under it.

I suspect the reason my clutch adjusting clevis is only threaded onto the threaded rod about 1/4" to get the free travel right, is because the clutch pressure plate is worn. The threaded rod on mine (part 7521) looks to be about 5" long, but I never measured it. I may do that the next time I am uder the truck. All the parts on mine are original though, so they shoud be correct.
I am sure when I need to replace the clutch it's going to a shop since I don't have a lift or other equipment to do that job on my back.