You need to speak to the parts department. They are the ones who can look things up by the VIN number.

 

so acordoing to ford parts site, my VIN requires PZH-14-F. so is that the new or the old?

 

looks like I am in the SOL club...its the early build.

 

Sorry guy, when I was looking to buy a used F250 V10, one of the criteria was that it had the newest heads. Since 2007 models were iffy, and I could not find a definitive answer on when they changed them 2007-2008 models I went with the 2009 to be sure. Glad I did if only for that reason.

I wish you luck on changing them out.

So I have to ask. Did you have the black boots?

 

You have to check the driver's side valve cover to get the engine build date. If the date is before 11/07 you have the two piece plugs and black boots. If it's later than the above date you have the brown boots and single piece long thread plugs.

 

Thanks Quad Racer, that is great information.
To check, where on the valve cover is the information (front/back/upper_side/lower_side)?
As you know it's a little crowded looking thru all the wires/lines/ etc.

Tom

 

This thread was full of great information. I bought an 09 f350 King Ranch with a 6.8l last week and it's good to know about the plug differences. I'll be honest and say that I'm glad that I don't have the two-piece design.

My truck has just under 101k right now and I don't see plug
replacement in the maintenance history so I'll be taking this on myself shortly. I'll post results if anything interesting comes up.

 

I bought mine with 99000 on it. Love the V10. I need to get mine changed also. So many things to do in the spring. Please let us know how it goes, and include pictures if you can.

One last tidbit of info that was not included in my original snips is this one for the coil/boot removal/installation.



Tom

 

The build date is on a big white sticker on top of the drivers side valve cover. You can't miss it. My build date was 2/08 and I have the 1 piece plugs.


I changed my plugs today and it was a breeze. I also changed the fuel filter and oil.


1. Blew the whole engine compartment off with compressed air.


2. Removed the COPs being sure to grab the boot with it to avoid having them separate from the boots. I wrote on the top with a sharpie so I could put each back where it came from, not that it matters.


3. Blew out spark plug recess.


4. Poured enough Berrymans carb cleaner in to cover the nut on the spark plug.


5. Loosened plug 1/4 turn and let sit a 10 minutes. None of the plugs were loose. They seemed to still be torqued properly.


6. Removed plug slowly allowing the cleaner to fall into the cylinder. I let the cleaner soak for a few minutes to clear carbon build up in the cylinder.


7. I blew the cleaner out of the cylinder with a remnant rubber fuel line I attached to the air gun. I let the rest of the cleaner evaporate to avoid excessive moister creating a possibility of hydro locking the motor. I was amazed that the remnant cleaner that blew back out of the cylinder was absolutely filthy. Guess my combustion chambers is pretty damn dirty. I cant stress enough that I was very thorough in making sure the cylinders were dry before installing the new plug.


8. I applied the anti-sieze to the threads lightly and torqued them to 9 ft. lbs.


9. Applied the die-electric grease to the end of the boot and a little on the rim where the boot meets the plug recess.


I can't believe how much better the truck runs. A couple side notes


1. When a cylinder was opened or about to be opened there was a shop rag covering the spark plug recess to keep out debris. I did mine one by one.


2. I used a 14MM extended socket and two different 3/8 extensions and torque wrench.


3. telescoping magnetic tool to retrieve old plugs and drop in new plugs carefully.


4. Only had to remove the air intake assembly from the throttle body and air filter box. Do it first, it even helped on the drivers side having it out of the way.


5. Passenger side was easier than driver side.


6. Don't blow Berrymans cleaner in your face.


Im sure I forgot a thing or two. Either way no worries. You'll wish you had done it sooner. I will check to make sure they stayed torqued after a couple hundred miles or so.

 

Thanks for posting your process and feedback Quad Racer. I ordered my plugs online today to save money. Got all ten for $62.50 off eBay which seemed better than the $9/piece they wanted at the parts store. I look forward to tearing into mine next week.

 

Quad Racer, a very big thank you for posting your procedure for the latest long thread spark plug V10. I am sure this will be a good reference for those changing their plugs.

I noticed you just used a deep well and some extensions with a magnet. I may have to do the same because I seem to be having trouble find a 9/16 (14mm) spark plug socket that will work with these plugs. The only 9/16 ones I have found at the auto parts stores don't work. They are magnetic, but the plug will not go deep enough up into the socket to catch the hex portion of the plug. And I have been unable to find one that just has the rubber insert to try. I have seen some on the net, but hate to order one and then find out it also will not work.

Anyone out there know of a specific rubber insert plug socket that does work with these plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

 

I used an 8" piece of 3/8" fuel tubing pushed on to the end of the plug, to start the plug in the hole, then spin it a few turns to make sure. The fuel tubing acts like a flex. Pull the tubing off, then I used a standard 14mm deep socket. It was pretty simple.

 

That's a good idea 300sflyer. Didn't even cross my mind and I was using a length on my air gun to blow out the cylinders. haha I felt I was taking a chance with the little magnetic thing. I was afraid it would break and fall into the cylinder cause its nothing more than an antenna with a small magnet that screws onto the end. Got lucky this time.

 

I will second that "good idea".
Thanks 300sflyer. I have a few different fuel line sizes here at the house. Time to see which one fits.
Again, this forum has an abundance of great people and knowledge.

Tom

 

Quad Racer, went back to your post and noticed you also changed the fuel filter on yours.

Could you take a minute to tell us how you did it. I have been concerned about how to relieve the pressure in the line before beginning.
Also, I have looked at the filter on mine and it does not look like it takes the usual little round adapter things to release the ends. Mine has what looks to be blue plastic kinda push in holding things. Is that what yours had, and how do you release them?

I noticed you are from Cincy. That's my home town. All my family is still there, but I moved to TN about 36 years ago. I still miss it. I do get up there to visit a couple times a year, go to a REDS game and have dinner at the Hofbrauhaus in Newport. It's a great city.

Tom