ponykilr's '96 F350 Build Thread
#137
I wasted $90 today. Totally my own fault for not looking closer.
Went to pick up some Super Duty front leaf springs advertised on CL. Supposed to be diesel U or V codes but truck is not on site. They looked pretty clean so I bought them. He grabbed one and I grabbed the other and we put them into my truck. We chatted a while and then I left. Got home and was unloading and realized they are different from each other.
One has the old eye design, the other the new (one has a bend in main spring which is old design, other is flat). Also the codes seem to be different.
The guy implied he got them out of the same diesel truck and was familiar with what I wanted them for, an RSK on my F350. It is possible they were from the same truck, one could have been replaced due to a wreck or something. Not sure if he knew or not, but they are my useless steel now.
I let down my guard because I was dealing with a fellow enthusiast and enjoyed the chat. Learned a lesson today. Pay attention to what you are doing,
Went to pick up some Super Duty front leaf springs advertised on CL. Supposed to be diesel U or V codes but truck is not on site. They looked pretty clean so I bought them. He grabbed one and I grabbed the other and we put them into my truck. We chatted a while and then I left. Got home and was unloading and realized they are different from each other.
One has the old eye design, the other the new (one has a bend in main spring which is old design, other is flat). Also the codes seem to be different.
The guy implied he got them out of the same diesel truck and was familiar with what I wanted them for, an RSK on my F350. It is possible they were from the same truck, one could have been replaced due to a wreck or something. Not sure if he knew or not, but they are my useless steel now.
I let down my guard because I was dealing with a fellow enthusiast and enjoyed the chat. Learned a lesson today. Pay attention to what you are doing,
#139
Well, a couple of things to report on.
My truck has idled a little high ever since I have owned it. I dove into it a little today to attempt to figure out what was going on. It idles around 950-1000 RPM when cold or warmed up. I removed the hose that feeds the IAC and held my finger over the inlet. No vacuum and no change in the RPMs. I took the hoses from the throttle body intake and looked in there at the blades. They seemed to be closing completely and were very clean....too clean. I think the PO had used some carb cleaner or something on it. This can remove the coating and cause air to leak by.
The blades each have a 1/8" or so hole in them as air bleeds. I wiped the blades off with brake clean on a rag and put a small square piece of Gorilla tape over each one. I then started the truck. PERFECT, it idles at 750 rpm and now the IAC is pulling air and controlling the idle just like it is supposed to. The air bleed holes combined with the leaky blade seal was just providing too much air at idle.
I will find some small rubber plugs (GM had a recall that used them to plug air bleeds in blades back when they had the throttle body sticking issues) from one of my old tech buddies and fix it permanently.
I also installed my new to me cluster with tach by following the guide here at the forum. I used my old speedo so my mileage is the same. I made sure the bulbs were all good and verified all the gauges were working correctly. I love having the tach. It looks good and now I know how many Rs I am turning at hwy speed, 70 MPH on my GPS is 1900 RPM which is perfect with the torque peak of the 460 being 2000 rpm. It'll run at this speed or on up to 80MPH easily, 80 coming in at about 2400 RPM. My big 37s are super smooth thanks to the truing I did on them and it seems to all be a good combo of gear, tire and big block torque.
My truck has idled a little high ever since I have owned it. I dove into it a little today to attempt to figure out what was going on. It idles around 950-1000 RPM when cold or warmed up. I removed the hose that feeds the IAC and held my finger over the inlet. No vacuum and no change in the RPMs. I took the hoses from the throttle body intake and looked in there at the blades. They seemed to be closing completely and were very clean....too clean. I think the PO had used some carb cleaner or something on it. This can remove the coating and cause air to leak by.
The blades each have a 1/8" or so hole in them as air bleeds. I wiped the blades off with brake clean on a rag and put a small square piece of Gorilla tape over each one. I then started the truck. PERFECT, it idles at 750 rpm and now the IAC is pulling air and controlling the idle just like it is supposed to. The air bleed holes combined with the leaky blade seal was just providing too much air at idle.
I will find some small rubber plugs (GM had a recall that used them to plug air bleeds in blades back when they had the throttle body sticking issues) from one of my old tech buddies and fix it permanently.
I also installed my new to me cluster with tach by following the guide here at the forum. I used my old speedo so my mileage is the same. I made sure the bulbs were all good and verified all the gauges were working correctly. I love having the tach. It looks good and now I know how many Rs I am turning at hwy speed, 70 MPH on my GPS is 1900 RPM which is perfect with the torque peak of the 460 being 2000 rpm. It'll run at this speed or on up to 80MPH easily, 80 coming in at about 2400 RPM. My big 37s are super smooth thanks to the truing I did on them and it seems to all be a good combo of gear, tire and big block torque.
#142
#145
LOL, parked in a different spot. ^
Lots on my mind.
I need to buy some 6" off road lights. I think I will just go old school KC Daylighter 130W in the "driving" pattern.
I need to do my RSK.
I am considering F150 springs for the rear with a Sky 4.5" shackle flip and no block. This will allow a soft ride, much less axle wrap with removing the factory 4" block and should end up right where it is now height wise.
I am going to swap beds from my parts truck. Mine has a wavy floor from being a farm truck in it's first life and a dent above the right tail light that would be hard to fix.
I want to spray the truck in Al's or Monstaliner all over. I just like it.
I want to use hummer wheels with 3" spacers so my wheels match my M1101 trailer.
I need to do the headlight relay set up.
I need to swap in my larger rear tank.
I am considering swapping a carb setup on the engine, but it isn't a priority.
Lot's to consider and lots to do. I think first is the RSK and the lights.
Lots on my mind.
I need to buy some 6" off road lights. I think I will just go old school KC Daylighter 130W in the "driving" pattern.
I need to do my RSK.
I am considering F150 springs for the rear with a Sky 4.5" shackle flip and no block. This will allow a soft ride, much less axle wrap with removing the factory 4" block and should end up right where it is now height wise.
I am going to swap beds from my parts truck. Mine has a wavy floor from being a farm truck in it's first life and a dent above the right tail light that would be hard to fix.
I want to spray the truck in Al's or Monstaliner all over. I just like it.
I want to use hummer wheels with 3" spacers so my wheels match my M1101 trailer.
I need to do the headlight relay set up.
I need to swap in my larger rear tank.
I am considering swapping a carb setup on the engine, but it isn't a priority.
Lot's to consider and lots to do. I think first is the RSK and the lights.
#146
#147
The factory headlight switch carries the full amperage load of the headlights and tail/marker lamps. You install a separate relay for the high and low beams to take the load off of the switch. There have been several threads on it. I think there is a post in the how to section on it.
It makes the switch last longer and the headlights much brighter.
It makes the switch last longer and the headlights much brighter.
#150
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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It would work great with those bulbs. All my trucks have the silver stars and my 88 has the headlight relay way brighter then any of the trucks of this vintage.
LOL, parked in a different spot. ^
Lots on my mind.
I need to buy some 6" off road lights. I think I will just go old school KC Daylighter 130W in the "driving" pattern.
I need to do my RSK.
I am considering F150 springs for the rear with a Sky 4.5" shackle flip and no block. This will allow a soft ride, much less axle wrap with removing the factory 4" block and should end up right where it is now height wise.
I am going to swap beds from my parts truck. Mine has a wavy floor from being a farm truck in it's first life and a dent above the right tail light that would be hard to fix.
I want to spray the truck in Al's or Monstaliner all over. I just like it.
I want to use hummer wheels with 3" spacers so my wheels match my M1101 trailer.
I need to do the headlight relay set up.
I need to swap in my larger rear tank.
I am considering swapping a carb setup on the engine, but it isn't a priority.
Lot's to consider and lots to do. I think first is the RSK and the lights.
Lots on my mind.
I need to buy some 6" off road lights. I think I will just go old school KC Daylighter 130W in the "driving" pattern.
I need to do my RSK.
I am considering F150 springs for the rear with a Sky 4.5" shackle flip and no block. This will allow a soft ride, much less axle wrap with removing the factory 4" block and should end up right where it is now height wise.
I am going to swap beds from my parts truck. Mine has a wavy floor from being a farm truck in it's first life and a dent above the right tail light that would be hard to fix.
I want to spray the truck in Al's or Monstaliner all over. I just like it.
I want to use hummer wheels with 3" spacers so my wheels match my M1101 trailer.
I need to do the headlight relay set up.
I need to swap in my larger rear tank.
I am considering swapping a carb setup on the engine, but it isn't a priority.
Lot's to consider and lots to do. I think first is the RSK and the lights.
You would be able to take your time and still be able to drive your truck.
Are you sure spacers are a good idea? everytime I heard about them they are causing problems with ball joints and such however you having the stronger D60 rather TTBs it may not affect you. Something you may want to look into.
Trav