Hey everyone,

I just sold my 6.0 psd and am looking at upgrading to a 2012+ 6.7 and was wondering what are somethings I should look out for prior to purchase.

I spoke with a well known mechanic in the area that specializes in ford diesels (6.0 and 6.4) and he has said he is starting to see more 6.7s come in with blown turbos and some with crankshaft issues.

My inquiries include looking at if I buy a 2012 6.7, is there things I can look for that will indicate if there should be a concern or not?

I understand talking to a mechanic you usually only hear the horror stories and rarely hear how good a particular truck/engine is.

I did search a little on the 6.7 to see if there was a similar recent topic about the pros/cons of the 6.7 and what to watch out for, but didn't see anything.

Thanks in advance for your help/input/direction.

Dan

 

Hey Dan, general consensus is the early 11's and maybe the odd '12 were the ones most subject to "growing pains", but either the 13's and up are too new to report repetitive problems, or they're just overall pretty good trucks. I'm inclined to lean towards the latter.

The "early" 6.7's could have exhaust valve issues, bad batch of 'em went in, and the way the regens are done wreaks havoc on 'em, eventually potentially (talking miniscule chances, tho) grenading the motor.....the turbo your mechanic mentioned, while it happens, I wouldn't give it a "common failure" tag....the radiators are all still junk, plastic end tanks leak at the seams where they're "welded" to the core.....possible DEF heater/pump/tank issues, but not too expensively resolved......can't say I've ever heard of any crankshaft issues, tho, that's a new one.....

Umm.... what else....help me out, y'all....oh, some solenoids in the transmission might give wacky shifting characteristics, but that'd be covered (like the turbo) under the 100k powertrain warranty.....

Maybe we should start a "common 6.7 issues" thread to sticky, but honestly, it'd be a pretty short list, so far.....

Good luck with your search, they're all pretty good trucks so far

 

Here is some older info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-delivery.html

 

Thanks Chuck.

9 months ago with I discussed my ideas with this mechanic, he said either bulletproof the 6.0 or go to the 6.7. He'd seen too many problems with the 6.4. And that general consensus seems to fit. Now that some more time has passed, he honestly said go a old 7.3 or duramax.

I've always been a ford guy and my father just bought a 14 6.7 brand new with the esp so I know how awesome these trucks are. I also know, based on what you said, these are still relatively new engines and we aren't too sure what the future may hold.

If I consider going with a '12, should I still be able to get an esp even though I'd be buying used? I know that's not really related to this topic, but this one particular truck I'm looking at is a 2012 350 with 50k miles on it.

Just trying to do my research before I buy (complete opposite of what I did with my 6.0 haha)

 

Sorry. I posted on the wrong thread. Deleted my post. My bad.

 

No problem, Dan

Yeah, ESP can be purchased/extended for 3yr/36k miles at any point up to the expiration of the factory 5yr/100k powertrain warranty. I'll paste what I typed up in another thread just this morning:

I purchased premiumcare ESP through Bob Cline at Ziegler Ford:

Ford ESP: Ford Extended Service Plans at highly discounted prices. Lowest Price Guarantee!

My truck was at 99,995 miles at the time of inspection, so I've got till sometime in '17 or 135,995 miles of "coverage"

From what I found, it appears to base directly on your truck's "situation" as to what ESP plans are available to be extended to you. Just search this forum for ESP and you'll find plenty of info.

 

Thanks Chuck.

I will definitely search the forum for ESP.

I plan on taking this particular truck I'm looking at into the Ford dealer for the Oasis report and also to have them inspect it.

Are there any particular items I should have them look directly at rather than just having them do a cursory view of the truck?

Dan

 

In addition to taking it to a Ford dealer for inspection (which is a great idea btw) I would have them remove the fuel filter to inspect to see if the filter is clean. Test batteries, inspect tires, shocks. Also there is a emissions recall that will need to be performed as well if you choose to purchase this truck. The weak link on these trucks is the turbo IMO.


The above items above can provide a better informed decision and possibly price reduction negotiations.


In addition I have a '12 truck with 61k miles and other than maintenance, I've replaced the tires, shocks and windshield wipers to date. It's been a great truck.

 

I will venture out and disagree about the turbos. While there have been cases of them failing they are nowhere near "common". The most problems are the radiator ends, def components. If you plan on deleting the emissions the truck will be that much better. I would pick the 6.7 over a bullet proofed 6.0 and any duramax with any amount of work. The ease of towing the 6.7 does blows the duramax out of the water.

 

Question regarding the deletion of the emissions.

Since I'm in the *cough cough* great state of California with smog checks every 2 years, are the deletion kits permanent?

I had an MBRP exhaust on my 6.0 with the cat delete pipe and when I went to smog it, swapped the cat back in with no problems.

Not sure how much more work it is on the new stuff....assuming quite a bit more work.

 

If I had to smog check every two years I would leave it on. To much pain involved. That and being California. You could get spot checked and fined your first born for it being gone.
My county doesn't require diesel emissions testing. I feel that could change so I kept the dpf just incase.

 

I've never seen anyone do a spot check. Smog for diesels here are literally they let the truck run for 10 minutes and if no black smoke, it passes.

They do a visual inspection to make sure it's all there and that's it.

Not saying I would or wouldn't, just wasn't sure how in depth the process was.

 

There are many people who have to get smogged who do it like this. They leave the EGR on and just block it off. They also keep their dpf and just switch it out with the straight pipe. The swap takes less then a day to put it back on and back off after the smog check.

 

Is the EGR block off as difficult as it was on the 6.0? I know some of you may not know about the 6.0.

Other then the impact on the environment and possibly getting caught and fined, are there any cons to removing the dpf and doing the EGR block?

Thanks for all the info.

 

The block offs consist of either the simple two plate kit or the complex four plate kit. Pretty easy either way. The most important thing to remember is to do the work while the engine is a little warm or you run the risk of breaking off a bolt in the manifold. Even if this happens, it is right on top. Should be about a 15 minute job if all goes well.

Don't delete for the mileage. Your only kidding yourself otherwise. It will be the same or less because you won't keep your foot out of it. There will be the exhaust smell again and the exhaust will be louder. Plan on spending a little time and money to get the tuning right. Most end up with an H&S with Gearhead tuning. The transmission shifting will be different, not bad, just different. Watch the forums, some guys are starting to smoke their trannys because of a heavy right foot.

I'm not complaining, just telling you the things that weren't told to me up front. I would do it again, no issue. Have fun with it.