Hey all, as the title says Im having issue turning my starter over. I guess I could have burned out the starter but could anyone tell me what to check for? I have the scan tool "autoenginuity" So if anyone has any experience with this please let me know what to do.

Heres what has happened...

I had difficulty starting due to bad positive cable off passenger side. Was like that for probably 2 years. It took longer to start as time went on.

Then finally it just wont crank like it should, its really struggling to turn over at all. Went and got brand new batteries twice and replaced the positive cable on passenger side.

Was told FICM but I am not sure and would rather try and solve this on y own before the to bill and a mechanics bill.
The starter sure looks like a pain in the A** to get to. Could this be solenoid only?

Also I am new to the forum and really have done only a bit of wrenching over the years. Im not an idiot to as far as fixing things go \i just have never really card to or had the need to fix on my own. Usually just get a new truck but I would like to keep this one and my frame of mind is different now. Id like to figure these things out and play around with the truck and learn while having fun.

So there you have my short story lol

Please help

 

Here's a easy way to sort of split the possibilities.

Look on the passenger side near the heater fan motor and locate this connector. Coming back toward the front of the truck, it has a single wire inside the plastic sheathing that will be yellow with a blue stripe.



Squeeze the round connector like this to unlock it while twisting and pulling. It should unplug fairly easily.




There is a single pin inside the front half of the connector.




Touching this pin to the positive battery post SHOULD cause the starter to spin over and crank the engine. If you still have the factory battery terminals, this little bolt sticking up seems like it was made for this purpose. If it doesn't crank, there is an issue with the batteries, starter, or the electrical connections between them, or the engine is locked up due to mechanical failure or a cylinder filled with fuel or coolant. If the key is off it will only spin over, if the key is on it should start.





This shouldn't cause any significant sparking when you touch it to the battery and it shouldn't get hot while cranking. It won't hurt the truck and it won't hurt to drive it if you started it this way just be sure to reconnect it after it fires up.

 

Anyone that is going to help you will need a few things from you....

1. What is standing voltage on the batteries? (Key off)

2. What is battery voltage with key on? (While the glow plugs are on)

3. What is the voltage for the FICM? (Key ON, No Starter) Should be 47.5-49.5

4. What is the voltage for the FICM? ( While starting) Should still be 47.5 -49.5

5. What is battery voltage after truck is running? Idle AND at 2000 RPM.

List these and perhaps someone will be able to help you.... Good Luck! And welcome to Ford-Trucks.com! And now I see that Rusty is already trying!!!

 

Thanks Rusty, Would jumping the solenoid do the same thing? I did try that and it still really was lagging trying to turn over. I mean this thing is really really turning over sloooowwwwww. Its acting as if the batteries are almost dead and they are fully charged

 

That wire goes to the solenoid so yup, same thing. Just a quick way to do it.

Bud's got you started on specifics above--^^.

 

Ok thanks, I will get on trying to find a volt meter to check the batteries with key off.

Key on glow plug on batt is 11.5v then turning over it drops to 8.25v.

FICM is in range as you said both ways.

Have no idea what it will be at idle I cannot get this thing to turn over enough to even make it seem like it will grab....

 

Ugh... to bad I didnt come here first lol. When I crossed the solenoid it did the same thing, really really struggling to turn over even a little

 

Thought you said, "I have the scan tool autoenginuity" You shouldn't have to find a voltmeter.

 

Alright, the scan tool is new to me as well....ok I will go out and see what the volts are with key key

 

I am begining to think the engine or belt/pulleys are in a bind.
Try removeing the belt see if it turns over easier.
Kind of tricky tho.

 

I was just again and the volts on the battery with the glow plug off was 11.5, so seems like the battery is a little low?? I have charger on them now. They are new batteries so they should charge up fast I would think. I had them sitting unplug for a few months so maybe thats why they are low.

The belts do turn, as per the instruction above I unplugged the wire and touched it to the positive bolt and watched it turn over.....its just very very sluggish, I wish I could make the sounds for you lol Its just not cranking over anywhere near as fast as it should be. Could it be the starter?? How would I test the starter without taking it out ?

 

Look by removeing the belt you remove any external bind [extra load]
Pulley bearings can freese up, tensoner, alternator, water pump etc. With the belt removed it elimates any extra drag. They may all turn but not freely.
This is process of elimination with no or little cost.
Certainly it could be a bad starter but first things first unless you just like spending money.
Some parts houses have a machine that can test it on the truck. Most however like it off.

By the way the tenshioner plays hard ball.

 

Ahhh I see what your saying now. Ok I will check that out and after I read that I do remember about 2 yrs ago I had a pulley that seized up on me. It actually broke the serpentine belt as I was heading home 1 day.

 

it might be a good time to give your battery cables a really good once over (some have reported that a bit of corrosion after the terminals in the wires have given them grief before). Also remove the other ends of the cables and give them a good clean up as well. Just curious if you were able to find that volt meter and what your batts were post to post...

 

All are good possibilities. you just need to eliminate them one by one.