door locks going out
#1
door locks going out
On my crew cab I'm having door locking issues on the pass. rear door and now the drivers door. The pass rear door will not lock or unlock on its own but I do hear the lock motor working. On the drivers door it starting to not lock but will go down halfway but the door will remain unlocked after shut, but will unlock without an issue. Any ideas?
#2
I did the foil wrap fix 4 or so years ago, and they still work great. Some have found lock actuators relatively inexpensively, and surely they'll chime in. Here's a link to the thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html
#3
#4
They're like $25 ea. on Rock Auto.
IMO, its just easier and quicker to replace the part. The Foil deal requires dismantling the lock actuator and re assembling. I did the foil on a friends Truck. Too much time and effort when you can just replace the entire unit in about 30 minutes and not have to go back in.
People were originally doing the foil deal when they were $60+ ea. from the Dealer.
IMO, its just easier and quicker to replace the part. The Foil deal requires dismantling the lock actuator and re assembling. I did the foil on a friends Truck. Too much time and effort when you can just replace the entire unit in about 30 minutes and not have to go back in.
People were originally doing the foil deal when they were $60+ ea. from the Dealer.
#5
They're like $25 ea. on Rock Auto.
IMO, its just easier and quicker to replace the part. The Foil deal requires dismantling the lock actuator and re assembling. I did the foil on a friends Truck. Too much time and effort when you can just replace the entire unit in about 30 minutes and not have to go back in.
People were originally doing the foil deal when they were $60+ ea. from the Dealer.
IMO, its just easier and quicker to replace the part. The Foil deal requires dismantling the lock actuator and re assembling. I did the foil on a friends Truck. Too much time and effort when you can just replace the entire unit in about 30 minutes and not have to go back in.
People were originally doing the foil deal when they were $60+ ea. from the Dealer.
I did the foil on mine as well. Now I have two motors acting up in the cold. Kick myself for not changing them out when I was in there....
#6
#7
Scott save a bunch of time and just order a set of 4 12 universal door lock actuators ebay.
Use 12 test light on harness so you wire them up the right way.
Safe bet is to just cut the harness and BUTT connect the wires instead of the pinch connectors.
I had to drill 1 small hole on each door for the 2nd mount. Tons faster than the foil I did a few yrs ago.
Use 12 test light on harness so you wire them up the right way.
Safe bet is to just cut the harness and BUTT connect the wires instead of the pinch connectors.
I had to drill 1 small hole on each door for the 2nd mount. Tons faster than the foil I did a few yrs ago.
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#14
When i got my truck the locks weren't working. Found after market clamp on actuators in all 4 doors. Pulled them out, did the foil wrap to the factory actuators and wired them back in. Had to redo one about a year later but that was my fault, tore the foil putting it back in and it got weak. Still going strong 3.5 years later. Would do the penny trick if I had it to do over.
#15