Dum dum in the cowl?!?
#16
Good thing in the spring I'm going to remove my cowl grate/cover piece to paint it. I'll re do the seam sealer then.
I also have a small leak that's been there for years on the passenger side. To the left of my heater core box, the big glob of seam sealer has cracked out, leaks in my floor vent then rolls it's way along the corner of the inside of the cab and goes out between the door and cab. I'm going to fix that in the spring as well. I majorly slowed that leak by putting clear silicone in that hole, but it hasn't cured it. I also siliconed the screws and around the antenna as some was getting in through there as well.
I also have a small leak that's been there for years on the passenger side. To the left of my heater core box, the big glob of seam sealer has cracked out, leaks in my floor vent then rolls it's way along the corner of the inside of the cab and goes out between the door and cab. I'm going to fix that in the spring as well. I majorly slowed that leak by putting clear silicone in that hole, but it hasn't cured it. I also siliconed the screws and around the antenna as some was getting in through there as well.
#17
I had to do this last year, when installing a new windshield didn't fix all my leaks.
Chipping that stuff out as far as I could down around the sides of the cowl was a pita.
I ended up using some low modulus urethane caulk in the hopes that its flowing/self leveling properties would let it seep in where I couldn't get everything perfectly clean.
We use this on expansion joints and where metal facades meet a concrete sidewalk, for example.
If you try this, make sure it doesn't all run down and clog the drains at the lower rear corner of the fender.
That would cause an even bigger problem.
Matthew,
Nothing is making it out between the door and the cab.
The pinch weld where the door seal attaches turns up a good 3/4" and holds everything in (until the floor rots through)
Chipping that stuff out as far as I could down around the sides of the cowl was a pita.
I ended up using some low modulus urethane caulk in the hopes that its flowing/self leveling properties would let it seep in where I couldn't get everything perfectly clean.
We use this on expansion joints and where metal facades meet a concrete sidewalk, for example.
If you try this, make sure it doesn't all run down and clog the drains at the lower rear corner of the fender.
That would cause an even bigger problem.
Matthew,
Nothing is making it out between the door and the cab.
The pinch weld where the door seal attaches turns up a good 3/4" and holds everything in (until the floor rots through)
#18
Got everything un-fogged, and dry.
This morning, it was 9 degrees, and all the windows on the inside were clear.
Truck just turned over 49k, I know heater cores can leak at any time, but since I thoroughly cleaned out the evaporator, the air box, and all the surrounding areas where crap can collect, I think I improved my heater cores life a little.
#19
1st thing to do is pull the carpet/mat/ padding completely out. You have more of a leak than that drip if the windows are fogging up like that. And it's probably rusting your floorboard out as we speak. I bet it's soaked underneath.
Once that is out of the way, you can better diagnose where the leak is coming from.
Once that is out of the way, you can better diagnose where the leak is coming from.
With it being so cold, any water that may be under there right now won't be attacking any rust because it would be ice by now.
#20
I had to do this last year, when installing a new windshield didn't fix all my leaks.
Chipping that stuff out as far as I could down around the sides of the cowl was a pita.
I ended up using some low modulus urethane caulk in the hopes that its flowing/self leveling properties would let it seep in where I couldn't get everything perfectly clean.
We use this on expansion joints and where metal facades meet a concrete sidewalk, for example.
If you try this, make sure it doesn't all run down and clog the drains at the lower rear corner of the fender.
That would cause an even bigger problem.
Matthew,
Nothing is making it out between the door and the cab.
The pinch weld where the door seal attaches turns up a good 3/4" and holds everything in (until the floor rots through)
Chipping that stuff out as far as I could down around the sides of the cowl was a pita.
I ended up using some low modulus urethane caulk in the hopes that its flowing/self leveling properties would let it seep in where I couldn't get everything perfectly clean.
We use this on expansion joints and where metal facades meet a concrete sidewalk, for example.
If you try this, make sure it doesn't all run down and clog the drains at the lower rear corner of the fender.
That would cause an even bigger problem.
Matthew,
Nothing is making it out between the door and the cab.
The pinch weld where the door seal attaches turns up a good 3/4" and holds everything in (until the floor rots through)
Now, when I opened my drivers door. I saw a drop of water come from about the center part of the roof where the steering wheel is positioned. I've seen that before too. But, I can reach up there and feel the windshield seal and it's bone dry. So, I'm not sure if I'm seeing things or what. As far as the passenger side, it's had that leak for years from what I saw. I'm just glad I was able to clean it up and seal it before it got worse.
#23
For the seam sealer I use 2 part either 3m or norton
3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 200 mL, 08307
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