I look at it as it was installed in the jag, and there were no horizontal ties from the crossmember to the car in the factory install. Therefore I do not think they are needed. There is no way the crossmember is going to move the way I have it welded in.
Dont forget to do the front sway bar mounting points BEFORE you box the front rails. Check my builds, first one I had to cut open my plates to do it, 2nd truck I learned my lesson and did the mounts first.

 

What is the crossmember height from the ground? My truck isn't in my garage now or I'd measure the distance to the frame horns for a reference for you. I'm thinking they are around 8" on my truck at ride height. Perhaps that'd help you. I have a 225 / 45 / 17 upfront. I'll have it back in a day or so and will gladly measure.





Cheers,

Doug

 

If your head is lower sitting in the truck than standing next to it, it is too low.

 

Does your State have a minimum bumper height? - Be a shame to go to all that work and not be able to drive it

 

I notched mine 2 inch into the frame it sits in the weeds. Can barley get a jack under it. Pretty low, has a little rake . Is it practical no !! But I kind like the way the stance looks.We will see after get her running and see if what I did makes any cense. George

 

Drew, Doug, George and any others who have the front that low what was your modification to the rear?

I've been reading extensively about all the options but to get the back low enough (i prefer level and no rake) it seems the best route is to put the axle on top of the springs. This would also require the requisite notching of the rail. Is that what you guys did?

I have just bought an Explorer 8.8 that I plan to put in. Mid-Fifty sells an axle flip kit but it's designed for a 3'' axle housing. However, the axle out of the Explorer is 3.25'' and therefore their kit won't work.

So my questions are 2 :
- What option did you guys use to lower the rear
- if you went with an explorer axle with a 3.25'' housing did you custom make mounting brackets or use some kit?

Again, thanks!!
Thomas

 

Hey Thomas,
I did a 4 link install with coil-overs on the rear.
My build thread here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...all-51-f1.html
The parts for this conversion are reasonably inexpensive, but it is labor intensive.

Cheers,

Doug

 

Thomas,
I took out every other spring,If I remember correctly I can check and See.
Notched the frame put axle on top of the spring. Left the spring in the stock holes. I have about a 2 inch rake which I like. George

 

George, those pictures are very helpful. If that's a 2" rake i'm in. The stance you've got is exactly what i'm looking for.

How does removing the springs affect the ride height when the axle is above the springs?

One final question i've been debating removing the bed. I really don't want to because i know once i do I'll end up doing much work than I want to do right now (the bed and wood are in good shape). But in order to do the boxing/notching will I need to remove it? Has anyone done a writeup on how best to remove one?

Thomas
'56 in Austin

 

Hey Thomas your ride height in the rear will be a little different than mine. I have the original rear in mine. But I believe It lowered the rear 3 inches.Your bed I believe to be able to take off and leave the wood in place. Check it out with the mounting you have. I think it would be better to take the bed off for ease of notching. Also my front end is notched into the frame 2 inches. I am up the road from you in Salado above Georgetown. George

 

deleting acidental duplicate

 

A year later and I'm providing an update.

I welded in the jag crossmember, installed a ford 8.8 and used the mid-fifty lowering spring and reversed bracket. This weekend I put back on the wheels for the first time. Granted, the engine isn't in so now I need to fab some motor mounts (any one have some good designs?). Here's a picture. I'm really excited. I also powder coated the wheels myself.

 

Before you make your final IFS setting check your scrub line.

 

Did you have to notch the rear frame in the end to get a level stance? How much height did you take out of it?

 

Scrub line checked! Thanks for the heads up there I actually had to look up what the means.

I did not need to notch the frame because I put the axle under the springs. To achieve what's shown I used the mid-fifty short and smooth/reverse eye. I also flipped the front bracket. The rear is an Explorer 8.8 and the spring perch is really tall. I can easily cut up to an inch out of it. Currently it's only held in with the u-bolts so I can adjust the rear height by modifying the perches until i'm happy and then weld them in.