Thank you for the link.

 

Its not near as bad as you think, nor as messy as you think.

I just did mine and the 2 hardest things were
1. getting that front top bolt out. (a 10mm ratchet wrench works amazing) mine is broke so it took a while.

2. Putting the ends back on. It was a bear for me at 175lb so i used riches ratchet strap method. But i thought you said you have a press. If so USE IT !!!
with care.

Other than that just make sure all surfaces are clean of old material and use plenty of lube on the orings

Drain coolant
spin off oil filter
disconnect block heater
drain driver side block
loosen front OC bolts
remove rear OC bolts
Pull heating element (1 1/8 deep well)
Pull cooler out.

I don't put anything that fragile in a vise. I simply set it on the bench with shop rags and tapped the ends with a rubber mallet.

Remove old rings
clean up ring surface in cooler and inside cooler ends (500gt wet dry paper)
Clean block mating surfaces. (paint scraper & 500gt wet dry paper )

Lube and install rings on cooler

install ends carefully

Intallation is reverse of removal.

Check all torques and fluids

Start and check for leaks and re check fluids.

 

Thanks everybody. Unfortunately with the holiday my o ring kit from bob will not be here until Monday, I was hoping to do it this weekend but that's out. So instead I am gonna do some degreasing today at work on my engine that way everything will be a little easier to see when the parts get here.

 

I've found that removing the fender liner makes this job easier. You can get to the forward bolts through the wheel opening with the liner removed. Also, if you remove the oil filter then loosen (but not completely remove) the block heater element, you can let the coolant drain from the block with less mess and no need to remove the block drain plug. When reinstalling, the torque spec for all bolts is 18 ft/lbs. Clean up the block heater element threads and use some pipe dope on them when reinstalling it. Engine oil has always worked fine for me on the o-rings, along with a ratchet strap. Get the strap tight, then pull outward on the strap along the sides of the cooler tube and the ends slide on fairly easily. Do one end at a time, starting with the rear. Make sure the alignment tab on the tube is aligned with the notch on the rear mount.

 

By doing it this way do you still drain the radiator? Or just drain enough coolant to get the part off?

 

It's faster if you drain the radiator first. The coolant will drain fairly slowly through the heater element port (as long as you make sure not to completely unthread it), so just let whatever is left in the block drain from there.

 

Cool. Good to know. I am gonna have to drain and pour the oil back in. It's t-6 and only has around 750 miles on it. Now that I think about it, it may be the thinner oil that is making it leak. Who knows.