You're making me really want to get started on my dad's red '54.

 

Looks Good! Wish I had that building.

 

That's a big *** Quonset Hut!!!!. And yes it would
make a fine work and play house. Wet Bar and all.
Pole Dancers and like that also. Yes ,one could do
a lot of work in that.

 

Hey all, hope everyone had a good Christmas. 🎅

Just a small update. Routed a little more wiring, and stripped off some old paint via air sander.

I should be purchasing a mustang II front end by the end of January, it's quite exciting!

 

Nice, what's under the bondo on the fender?

 

Probably the fender

 

That would be best case, but from experience with Gary's fenders, that isn't always true, On his bondo often covered badly done repairs and/or rust out.

 

Subscribed.

 

Just some small dents. I'm assuming body work was easier than the metal work for the PO.

 

Big Milestone this weekend!

I was experiencing some more ignition problems, so I caved in and bought a new Pertronix ignitor II distributor and flamethrower II ignition coil. Got them from summit racing on friday and proceeded to install.

I just have a question about the mechanical advance limiters that came with the distributor. I know what mechanical advance does, but I'm not too sure how much i should limit it, or if at all. I could either limit from 12 degrees, 16, or 20. Does anyone have any knowledge on this or what limiting the advance does? any advice would be great. I'll talk to some people i know, and call summit as well. Thanks for your help!

The reason this is such a big stone, the distributor was the final component in the engine bay that was not new or rebuilt, until now.

Backstory of installation, which ended up taking the weekend when I was hoping it only a couple hours.

When removing the old distributor, the end of the distributor and intermediate shaft for the oil pump fit very very very tightly. I ended up pulling out the shaft with the distributor.

There is a retainer ring on the shaft, which is only supposed to slide on one way to prevent this very thing that happened to me, however it did anyway. I tried to get the shaft back into the pump after and hooked up the distributor and began timing, but i no longer had any oil pressure.

I looked up on youtube some tutorials about the shaft and oil pump, and I realized the only way to correctly fix the problem was the drop the pan, take out the pump, then replace the shaft....

So i had to drop the pan, take out the pump, put the shaft back in. Then i could finally put in the new distributor.

It went in just fine, and my timing was only a few degrees off. Engine runs smooth and great.

 

The mechanical advance gets added to your base timing so lets say you set your base at 14 degrees and limit the mechanical to 20 degrees you get a total of 34 degrees. Since it looks like you have iron heads and with not knowing your cam, compression etc, I would think this just about right. I have a mild Ford 312 Y-Block with iron heads and those are the figures I use, with no adverse effect. Also if you hook up the vacuum advance it can add up to 10 more degrees under light load. Hope this helps.

 

Good same on my truck dents were puttied over rather than removed, which I was glad to find, removing unmolested dents is much easier than had they beat out the metal.

 

This does have iron heads, I have a comp cam 268H, with about compression ratio of 8.5:1 (stock compression, not sure if that changes with the rebuild. it was bored out 30 over). The engine is stock besides those two things. Thanks for your help!

 

34 Degrees should be good. In any case I would not exceed 38 total on that engine.

 

Is the initial (hypothetical) 14 degrees you talked about determined by the timing on the engine that is set with a timing light? And I do have vacuum advance hooked up