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I watched that video - Where the F*** is the oil??? Good grief that's absurd. I'm really glad I've been on Mobil 1 every 5K since the start with my truck. Now 110,000 and I listened to it carefully and don't hear any pop like in the other video. I also don't spend much time idling, most is highway speeds i.e. higher oil pressure and flow so that may help a bit.
I watched that video - Where the F*** is the oil??? Good grief that's absurd. I'm really glad I've been on Mobil 1 every 5K since the start with my truck. Now 110,000 and I listened to it carefully and don't hear any pop like in the other video. I also don't spend much time idling, most is highway speeds i.e. higher oil pressure and flow so that may help a bit.
At 113,000 miles I know have 4900 hrs which is high in comperision to most. I do idle on job sites but not all that often. Most of the time is just inner city driving.
When I do finaly get the parts installed I'll see how the oiling is affected by rpm.
At 113,000 miles I know have 4900 hrs which is high in comperision to most. I do idle on job sites but not all that often. Most of the time is just inner city driving.
When I do finaly get the parts installed I'll see how the oiling is affected by rpm.
Yours:
113,000 / 4,900 = 23 MPH average
Mine:
110,000 / 2,560 = 43 MPH average
Pretty big difference in idle and/or low speed time.
White Bear Lake Ford( Formerly Tousley) can find the parts for you. Just give the guy the part number for the assemblies and he can get them for you. Ask for a guy named Pat brother.
I guess the first question, is this an oil delivery problem, or a drainage problem?
Maybe oil is already circulating good, but draining out too quick.
Turbo oil drains don't look fun to move lol.
Nope, you can never have too good a drainage, you don't want the valve train submerged in oil, just sufficiently splashed. If it was submerged in oil it would leak oil past the guides into the cylinders amongst other issues.
I think what is needed is a oil line to about the center top of the valve covers. On the inside of the valve cover make that oil that comes in travel the length of the cover and drip down.
I wonder if you could tee off of the oil filter somehow.
I think what is needed is a oil line to about the center top of the valve covers. On the inside of the valve cover make that oil that comes in travel the length of the cover and drip down.
I wonder if you could tee off of the oil filter somehow.
LOL, i was thinking the same thing, using a billet taped oil filter housing cap just like what is used for a oil by-pass filter. Then have a manifold built into the top of the inside valve cover. Fab a fitting similar to what a fire sprinkler looks like that would fan the oil over the rockers. It wouldn't take much maybe just a -4 jic line from the oil filter housing then a tee to each valve cover. The covers are aluminum so you could weld a bung fitting top the top and drill thru to the manifold and tap it for your thru fitting. It would actually be cake.
Issue with things like this are making sure you do affect the supply of oil to the engine, so a restrictor orfice of some type might be needed to insure that does not happen. It would look clean, i bet it would look factory to most...lol
I wonder if you could enhance the oil flow by increasing the spring pressure of the relief valve if that would supply any more oil to the top. I know this is frowned upon as it can actually have a wash out affect on the bearings when pressure is to high on some engines.
Anyways now you have my creative mind thinking............. dam it i was just gonna replace them and not think about it...thanks Scott.....