97 7.3 replaced turbo/wont run
#31
ok lets stay on track. I decided to start from the beginning I pulled the front tank and found a broken pickup filter verifying someone's suggestion that it wasn't getting fuel, more than likely right, was reading a 1/4 tank & e in rear tank. got that fixed and will be reassembly today, ran a scan on puter & no codes. When checking to see if the fuel bowl would fill up which it did fill some but not even 1/8 of the way before batts went down I noticed a curved wire that is electrically connected to something?? Does anyone know what the wire does? It contacts the bottom of the fuel filter when it is installed. Also found a wad of goo about the size of a silver dollar and 1/4 of an inch thick in the rear pickup screen, which was the easiest fix so far other than having to pull the tanks. I got to give it too you guys your a bunch of really knowledgeable people. I hope this goes well because I just ordered a mustang frnt crossmember to put this drivetrain in 49 chev 3/4 ton panel. believe you me I will make things more assessable when it goes in.
Last edited by jrods2; 09-05-2014 at 08:36 AM. Reason: wasn't done
#32
I've been dealing with a ford fe for a few years and I understand ford & there way of dealing with model changes. I have a 1966 galaxie, never wrecked ,I'm the 2nd owner, owned it since 1988, got over $50K in receipts and it's almost done. The Paxton supercharger is installed and working on the belt system, multi port fuel injected(DIY), B&M low 1st & 2nd gears, TCI 12in 2500 stall anti ballooning torque converter, 355 rear gears with Detroit locker, 4 wheel disk (manual brakes), power steering, all remotely controlled, no door keys, no ignition key, no trunk key(Crimestopper), all snow white interior, 88 buick skylark buckets mounted on 6 way Lincoln frames(sectioned 2in). 4 bar rear suspension with proma star coilovers, 3 1/2 flowmaster from collectors to bumper. custom mixed one off color(enamel, my formula) with a light coat of silver miniflake, with a few body line highlighted with metallic white all cover in 7 coats of poly urethane clear. I"ll post pics as soon as I figure out how. Again thanks for all the help, but don't go anywhere I m sure I will still need help.
#33
There are three electrical items on the fuel bowl / FPR assembly
* Water in Fuel (WIF) sensor - Controls the WIF light on the dash. IIRC, on the rear of the bowl, partway up. I forget the wire color(s).
* Fuel filter heater - driver's side, kinda low down. Single flat-blade terminal with a red/green wire. This is the infamous one that, when it shorts, blows fuse #22, which in turn disables the PCM, so no start. (This is the reason for the WTS light question above.)
* Fuel filter restriction sensor - on the FPR, IIRC driver's side toward the front.
So what you're seeing is probably the wire/connector for the heater. It would still be helpful to know the answers to the three questions above, but if indeed you don't get a WTS light, check fuse #22. If it's blown, DON'T just replace it. DISCONNECT this connector FIRST, THEN replace the fuse, and then check for the WTS.
What device did you use to scan the truck for codes?
* Water in Fuel (WIF) sensor - Controls the WIF light on the dash. IIRC, on the rear of the bowl, partway up. I forget the wire color(s).
* Fuel filter heater - driver's side, kinda low down. Single flat-blade terminal with a red/green wire. This is the infamous one that, when it shorts, blows fuse #22, which in turn disables the PCM, so no start. (This is the reason for the WTS light question above.)
* Fuel filter restriction sensor - on the FPR, IIRC driver's side toward the front.
So what you're seeing is probably the wire/connector for the heater. It would still be helpful to know the answers to the three questions above, but if indeed you don't get a WTS light, check fuse #22. If it's blown, DON'T just replace it. DISCONNECT this connector FIRST, THEN replace the fuse, and then check for the WTS.
What device did you use to scan the truck for codes?
#35
#36
this is a 97 7.3 super duty. the relay is right next to horn and 2 others. this is a factory box not a add on. watched a video on utube which showed a gut replacing clogged filter at end of pickup just past the elect pump. Are you sure you have extensive knowledge of this motor?
#37
I,m sorry
Yeah, I am pretty definite that Richard and every other guy trying to help you in this thread you started have very extensive knowledge of this motor. Might wanna go back and read some more about the basic workings of an OBS 7.3 if that is, in fact, what you have. There was no "97 Superduty" as you say.
#38
answer 3 ?
tach moves while cranking.
No smoke, doesn't even act like it wants to fire
#39
You should see a minimum of 20 Lbs. WHILE CRANKING the engine. The 65 lbs. is for a running engine.
#41
Anyway, WTS + tach establishes that at least the PCM is working. How exactly are you measuring voltage at the glow plugs?
#42
#43
Okay, that tells you the relay is closing and providing SOME power to the glow plugs. That doesn't tell you if the glow plugs are working. Couple other tests you need to do:
* Measure the resistance of each glow plug, from the valve cover connectors. Disconnect them and set your meter on resistance, and measure from each outermost terminal to ground. Should be right around 1 ohm.
* Measure the performance of the GP relay under the load of the glow plugs. Re-connect the VC connectors, turn the key to RUN, and measure the voltage at each of the two big terminals on the relay (each terminal to ground, separately). The voltage will be less than 12V, due to the load of the glow plugs, probably 11-11.5. The voltage on the "always on" terminal (supply from the junction point on the starter relay) will be higher than the "switched" terminal (power going to the GPs), but the _difference_ is the key. If difference is more than 0.3V, the relay is faulty; it may be closing, but it's not providing sufficient power to the glow plugs.
If the second test fails, you can try bypassing the relay - run a jumper cable from one of the battery + terminals to the large "switched" terminal on the relay, the one that provides power to the GPs. Leave it on there 10-15 seconds. That should energize the glow plugs enough that, if this is indeed the problem, it should allow it to fire.
* Measure the resistance of each glow plug, from the valve cover connectors. Disconnect them and set your meter on resistance, and measure from each outermost terminal to ground. Should be right around 1 ohm.
* Measure the performance of the GP relay under the load of the glow plugs. Re-connect the VC connectors, turn the key to RUN, and measure the voltage at each of the two big terminals on the relay (each terminal to ground, separately). The voltage will be less than 12V, due to the load of the glow plugs, probably 11-11.5. The voltage on the "always on" terminal (supply from the junction point on the starter relay) will be higher than the "switched" terminal (power going to the GPs), but the _difference_ is the key. If difference is more than 0.3V, the relay is faulty; it may be closing, but it's not providing sufficient power to the glow plugs.
If the second test fails, you can try bypassing the relay - run a jumper cable from one of the battery + terminals to the large "switched" terminal on the relay, the one that provides power to the GPs. Leave it on there 10-15 seconds. That should energize the glow plugs enough that, if this is indeed the problem, it should allow it to fire.
#45
I'm not looking back cause I'm lazy, but have you checked the ipr and its wiring? No smoke at all while cranking means your injectors aren't firing. Lots of times that is related to the ipr or idm. Means you were in the valley working on the turbo I'd be looking at the ipr and its wiring first.