That's the one I used. (Mid-Fifty) The bolt its self is too long and will need to be cut off.

 

Are your shims steel or aluminum? Did you get them at MF as well?

 

Those look just like the aluminum ones I got from Classic Haulers.

 

Yes. I used the 4 degree aluminum wedges from Mid-Fifty.

 

OK, one last question on this subject. I have read that 6 degrees of caster is recommended by many on this forum. Since the original truck has 2 degrees of caster, should I be buying 4 degree shims (for a total of 6) or 6 degree shims?

 

To answer your question, If you have 2 degrees and you're looking for 6, you would need to add 4.

But, some of that depends on you and your truck.

Most of these trucks came from the factory with a little bit of "rake". (the rump is higher than the nose) If you lower the back to make the truck sit level, you pick up a degree or even two of caster. (When you lower the rump you're tilting the front axle back a little) Likewise, if you lower the front and leave the rump up, adding more rake, you take some caster away. You might have to add more shim to make up for it.

In my case I've added 4 degrees and lowered the rump a little. With the original 2 degrees, I'm going to have closer to 7 degrees when I'm done. I'll measure it again when the truck is finished to see how it comes out.

There is also a trade off here. When you add caster it may follow the road better, and the steering wheel may return faster, but it adds a little steering effort. If you drive on straight roads most of the time, or if you have added power steering, it may not be much of a problem. But a long trip on a curvy road with "strong arm" steering might tire you out a lot faster.

It's also possible to add too much caster. Let's say your axle has 2 degrees, you add the 6 degree shims, and you lower the rump. Now you have 9 or 10 degrees of caster. It not only adds effort for steering, but it can also produce a shimmy or wobble in the front end, especially if you use bias ply tires. (Radials are more forgiving because they distort less at higher speeds) You could spend a fortune on unsuccessful tire balancing only to find the tires are not the problem.

Sorry this turned out to be so long. It's around 3am and I tend to run-on when I'm tired.

 

Well, I always appreciate the effort but especially at 3:00am!

 

I bought some 6 deg in steel at the local spring shop, cut them to fit width wise on the bandsaw.

 

Just got my panel back on the road a few months ago and am having the same problem. Just checked under the truck and no shims at all. Everything else on the suspension is stock so I'm going with 6 degree shims. I have bias ply tires right now but will replace with radials.

This has been a very helpful thread, Thanks!

DB

 

You may want to put radials on before you decide to add shims. I find radials cure a lot of the wander that bias ply tires have.

 

The 2 deg is built into the spring pad on the axle, AFAIK. See below, it's fairly confusing... But I believe wedges were only to correct an out-of-spec condition.

PS, no wedges on mine, radial tires, no problems... When I was looking for shims for my rear axle (9"), I saw lots of comments to the effect the aluminum wedges have a habit of cracking in half. Steel would be better.

 

BTW, hold down the ALT key while typing 248 to get a degree sign: °, such as 6°.

 

Ross, you are correct, 2 degrees of caster is built into the axle spring pad, but how much is there when the truck is at ride height is what matters most. 2 degrees is what Ford used for the tires, driving speeds turning effort, and roads of the day when new. That assumes the frame sits level at ride height. Once the springs start to sag from age. leafs are removed, lowering springs are used, dropped axles, smaller diameter wider radial tires, higher speed driving, etc 2 degrees becomes less and the truck needs even more caster. Your truck may not need more because IIRC yours is pretty much restored to stock configuration and not used as a DD.
If a truck sits at a rake, has been lowered etc then IMHO 4 - 6 degree shims may make the truck much more pleasant to drive. Even a full restoration used for much highway driving might benefit from adding a set of 2 degree shims. If it doesn't it's easy enough to remove them. Adding or subtracting shims with a beam axle does not require a realignment.

 

dmack91,


Thanks again for your timely thread. I took inspiration and managed to get my shims installed today (I've had them sitting on the bench for 2 months). I didn't drop the whole axle. I did one side at a time, no big deal.


Jack the truck up, set some jackstands under the frame to let the suspension hang. disconnect the bottom of the shock, remove spring "U" bolts and let axle sag. Take a pair of "C" clamps and clamp off the spring and pull the center retaining/alignment bolt.
My kit came with bolts, unfortunately they were 3/8" bolts and my springs have 5/16" bolts. A trip to the hardware store for some hex cap bolts and I was going back together. No big deal.


What a difference it made! The old truck drives straight and true.


Thanks again for the motivation.


Bobby

 

Hi guys

I am just about to send my chassie to media blast and paint and I am getting close to assembly the chassie again and has been thinking lately if there was a front and rear, of the front axle before mounting the spindles. I guess two anglefinders would give me the answere given the info above???