I am not sure if you ever read the CM codes, just the KOEO & KOER codes.
The PIP sensor code will only be with the CM codes most of the time but when you have a PIP sensor code I have not seen the 213 code.

You may be right about the PCM as I have seen it come up with some strange codes that keep coming back. I had one that kept giving the knock sensor codes but ran just fine. So I changed the PCM and no more knock sensor code.

 

The cm codes come before the koeo codes in the self test but all I got was the 213 in the koer test

 

It sounds like your base timing procedure was accomplished properly but the PCM is not able to verify changes in timing. 213 troubleshooting entails use of a breakout box or you might simply try a PCM swap if you have an available spare.

 

Whats a break out box I have a scanner that can read certain functions? Im gonna try a distributor since its cheap and ive replaced everything else then look for a pcm

 

A breakout box or BOB is a device that you put between the PCM Computer and the plug for the PCM Computer.
It has holes in it that you can plug in test leads to hook up a DVM or scope to see what the wires going to or from the Computer are doing. The numbers on the BOB are the same as the pin numbers at the PCM Computer plugs and is the same as hooking to that computer pin.





An Example using the BOB.
If you have a good PIP waveform and you do not have a SPOUT waveform At the BOB plugs and the SPOUT wire is open (SPOUT jumper removed) and not shorted to ground then you know you have a bad computer.


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Thank you subford for posting the information on the breakout box.

jungles82, Why the rush to replace the distributor? (It's one of the least likely causes of this problem). You young mechanics (I'm not, but have had hundreds working for me) are smart but want to rush off and replace things quickly. It's far better to diagnose these problems in a step wise, logical manner to get to the failing part. Ultimately it will save you time, headaches and money.

 

80% of the time ive heard of these same issues for some reason they replace the distributor and thats the cause I dont know why but for some reason it fixes the problem I know it sounds like adding windshield washer fluid to the tank to fix a tail light issue but the part is cheap and why not rule it out I dont have a breakout box and dont wanna take it to the dealer to figure out the problem Ive been doing this for 20 years so im not that young im just to the point where parts are cheaper than labor

 

Truck really ran like crap today getting hay barely made it home timing wouldnt set right either backfire through the intake or the exhaust and horrible ping im gonna pull pcm and do a visual inspection ive never had good luck with ford fuel injection

 

cm codes are after koeo codes on my 90.

 

So do the rest of the vehicles equipped with the EEC-IV PowerTrain Control system.

CM codes are always displayed after the KOEO tests.

 

Well I took your advice and replaced the ecu and nope didnt help

 

Ok so its been a while since I posted but ive made very little progress and spent alot of time and money working on this thing I replaced all the ignition parts again plugs wires cap rotor distributor and even the computer and it still does the same thing wont start with timing set at proper 10* with spout connector disconnected and timing set correctly and spout connector back in place once I do get it started I can set the timing back to 10 but then it wont wind up past 2k rpms and pops and bogs down im almost down to selling it as parts cause I cant keep putting money into this thing so please help fuel pressure was fine and compression was good I just dont get it? Or point me in the direction of someone that can diagnose the problem in the eugene oregon area

 

have you done any wiring checks I have read the whole thread did not see any. none of those parts do any good if they can not communicate the correct inputs or outputs. do you have a volt meter test light and just because your replace a old part with new does not mean its any good.

 

I've tested continuity from the plugs to stuff like tps iacv icm coil distributor to ecu ive done voltage tests on the tps and icm but thats about it and ive tried new parts and old parts off a buddys truck that is a daily driver and still the same symptoms

 

Still have Code 213 as well?