1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'48 F1 239 V8 cranks but wont turnover

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  #16  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:17 PM
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Ok..thanks for everyone's input.
As mentioned in my first post on this matter, I replaced some burned wiring (caused by my overheated undersized positive battery cable) and immediately following the engine would not start. I reported that I suspected that I missed something reconnecting the new wiring. BTW..the new cable I received per instructions from LMC Truck is equally as undersizedzed.
In the meantime I replaced the starter motor relay, solenoid, checked the spark at the points, plugs, tightened all related connections. The good news is the engine cranks more quickly but still the engine would not start. Sure enough I found a wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid I neglected to reconnect. BINGO..STARTED RIGHT UP!!
Such a good feeling right?
While driving I noticed the dash gauge showed a slight battery discharge?? No big deal.
Made a few stops and the engine started right up each and every time. That's a first for this truck.
Several hours later got in to start and got nothing more than that clicking sound??
Returned the next morning, engine started right up. Several hours later..nothing.

This is making me crazy..any other ideas my friends?
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:09 AM
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Replacing the coil, if you haven't, may be a cheap worthwhile investment. Make sure you get the polarity on it correct. Also, if you ar econtinually showing discharge while driving, you may want to check your charging system (generator, voltage regulator etc) as a worn battery may crank, but not give enough umph for a nice spark to get started.
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:42 AM
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Sorry..left out new coil, voltage regulator and battery (this thing has me going wacky).

I guess I look into charging system
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by F-1
Sorry..left out new coil, voltage regulator and battery (this thing has me going wacky).

I guess I look into charging system

I can appreciate the going wackey! I just spent over a week troubleshooting a crank but no-start (when warm) on my F6. Went through much of what you have with a new coil, bettery, etc... only to finally get it resolved with a new Power Valve in the carb. Good luck and stick with it - there are some good smart people on this forum and I'm sure we'll get you trusting your ride again shortly!
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:46 PM
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Great. .truck started right up earlier.
Needed to get to home Depot 1 mile from my house
wife at work with the other car
stuck in parking lot with a good 2 hand battery I I took a long just in case
got cables hooked up trying to jump start.
maybe just a little crank
should I wait or call tow?
Oh great cell battery is low!6
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:04 PM
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Man, that rots! I hope you got her home one way or another. You state "maybe just a crank". Does that mean she was cranking well, cranking weakly, or barely turning over?
 
  #22  
Old 07-21-2014, 04:05 PM
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without the battery cables hooked up to a second 6v battery in good condition all I got was clicking..with it hooked up got a very weak one second crank.
Just walked home left in home depot parking lot till i figure things out. Cant get a jump start from 12v cars and no one was generous to give me a push start..so much for wearing my US Air Force Veteran hat..lol
Guess I'll go back in a few hours with a friend and see what happens..not very hopeful though
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-2014, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by F-1
without the battery cables hooked up to a second 6v battery in good condition all I got was clicking..with it hooked up got a very weak one second crank.
Just walked home left in home depot parking lot till i figure things out. Cant get a jump start from 12v cars and no one was generous to give me a push start..so much for wearing my US Air Force Veteran hat..lol
Guess I'll go back in a few hours with a friend and see what happens..not very hopeful though
You can safely jump the starter direct with a 12v battery. Make sure the truck is out of gear, parking brake set, and have the ignition switch turned on when you hit it with 12v.
Hook the jumper cable to the starter post or to the starter side of the relay post. Then when you are ready to try to start the engine and the above mentioned, out of gear, brake set, key switch on, etc, touch the other jumper cable to a solid ground. Polarity will not matter. Do not push the starter button. The engine will turn over when you ground the auxiliary battery.
 
  #24  
Old 07-21-2014, 04:57 PM
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thanks
so im understanding you..both cables are hooked up to the 12v battery before i proceed?
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by F-1
thanks
so im understanding you..both cables are hooked up to the 12v battery before i proceed?
Both cables hooked to the 12 volt battery. Next connection is to the starter or starter relay. Final connection is to a solid ground so as to keep sparks away from the battery and make an easy to reach, away from dangerous moving parts, connection point for the cable handler. We wish you luck.
 
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch
You can safely jump the starter direct with a 12v battery. Make sure the truck is out of gear, parking brake set, and have the ignition switch turned on when you hit it with 12v.
Hook the jumper cable to the starter post or to the starter side of the relay post. Then when you are ready to try to start the engine and the above mentioned, out of gear, brake set, key switch on, etc, touch the other jumper cable to a solid ground. Polarity will not matter. Do not push the starter button. The engine will turn over when you ground the auxiliary battery.
Just to clarify, you still need the jumpers (+) to (+), (-) to (-). But it's perfectly OIK to jump from a (-) ground car to a (+) ground truck as long as they never physically touch.
 
  #27  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:44 PM
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With truck now
not getting anything? No sounds? followed your directions
 
  #28  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:13 PM
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Tap on starter with a hammer, block of wood, something to shock/vibrate the starter. This if you are sure you have good connections with the jumper cables. Suspect bad starter at this point.
 
  #29  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:44 PM
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You have not mentioned checking, tightening or replacing the ignition switch.
The wire you found not hooked up, was it the switch end 0r solenoid end?
Ed
 
  #30  
Old 07-21-2014, 08:07 PM
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The wire I accidentally neglected was the switch to solenoid. The wirenoticed liced and apparently came undone when I was tracing and untangling wires under the dash. As soon as I reconnected engine started right up.
Thought I had the problem solved until I drove it forward a while and notice a bit of battery discharge when accelerating. .at idle needle stayed in the middle.
As soon as i turned engine off for a while it would not restart..finally got it started tonight with a few guys pushing me to a jump start
made it home. .now trying to figure out.
BTW. .the 12th to 6v. Idea mentioned earlier actually ended up giving me 2 or 3 weak cranks but not enough to start engine
 


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