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5.4 lots of money still stall

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  #16  
Old 07-18-2014, 11:19 PM
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Had the same issue on my 5.4l it would idle real low rev like crazy and die, I changed the idle air valve.
Problem gone and never came back and that was 12 months ago.
 
  #17  
Old 07-19-2014, 06:11 PM
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Ya but your didn't sound like a diesel at the same time, he said it starts to make noise.
Lack of oil pressure, very small screen in oil pick up. The plastic chunks have to go somewhere right into the screen. When I do cam phasers and timing chains I tell the customer the pan needs to come off and clean the screen. The engine rebuilders also want the oil cooler replaces or warranty void. With out the in front of me and checking out I can only give advice. To me check oil screen to be safe this can be done with a borescope. Remove oil plug and stick it in the hole. If not plugged great move on, if it is pull a cam cap see if it's scored. I have a 5.4 right now cam pitted caps scored engine done it's a 2007.
It won't be getting a 5.4 it's getting a 4.6 used engine
 
  #18  
Old 07-19-2014, 08:06 PM
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You could try the updated VCT solenoid in my signature, there is a TSB regarding the rattle noise and the fix is the new solenoids. I know you said you replaced them but if they are aftermarket then they are prob the original design and the updated parts might fix your problem.
 
  #19  
Old 07-25-2014, 08:54 PM
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the thing that triggers the stalling is when warm and in drive at idle the rpm is at about 500...so could it be idle air control valve? The other question is what should oil pressure be at 500 rpm ?
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lkammer
the thing that triggers the stalling is when warm and in drive at idle the rpm is at about 500...so could it be idle air control valve? The other question is what should oil pressure be at 500 rpm ?

Just went out and checked, mine never idles below 800rpm.

It idled a lot lower when the IAC was faulty, around the 500 then stall, hard to restart then when it did it would rev like crazy and stall, I had to hold down the accelerator all the time otherwise it would stall, very annoying.
Yes its an Auto.

My oil pressure sits just over half way up.

Is the engine fault light coming on?
If so what are the codes?
 
  #21  
Old 07-25-2014, 10:33 PM
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I don't have a scanner but my buddy came over yesterday and no codes came up.so again when i come to a stop when the engine is warm,rpm goes to 500/ oil press. goes to about 15 engine wants to stall , i throw it in neutral ,rev to about 2000. engine idles fine in about 5 seconds.I just drive it 2x/wk to work (~20mi). my other mechanic buddy told me to use a 15w40 to help??
 
  #22  
Old 07-25-2014, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lkammer
I don't have a scanner but my buddy came over yesterday and no codes came up.so again when i come to a stop when the engine is warm,rpm goes to 500/ oil press. goes to about 15 engine wants to stall , i throw it in neutral ,rev to about 2000. engine idles fine in about 5 seconds.I just drive it 2x/wk to work (~20mi). my other mechanic buddy told me to use a 15w40 to help??
I doubt it would be the oil causing it, oil is either thick or thin hence the different ratings, thinner oil when the climate is cold and thicker when its hot.

I did have another issue when my Idle Air was faulty and that was throwing up the cyl head over heating code, cant remember off hand what it was.
I dont think I got a code from the Idle Air though? But when replaced the idle became smooth again..

The other issue I had was a broken wire to the cyl head sensor, once I fixed the wire the code went.
Makes you wonder why they put the cyl head sensor at the back or the engine underneath the inlet manifold though?

I bought the whole gasket kit in preparation of taking the manifold off and then found the broken wire before I did....
 
  #23  
Old 07-26-2014, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Byooty
I doubt it would be the oil causing it, oil is either thick or thin hence the different ratings, thinner oil when the climate is cold and thicker when its hot.

I did have another issue when my Idle Air was faulty and that was throwing up the cyl head over heating code, cant remember off hand what it was.
I dont think I got a code from the Idle Air though? But when replaced the idle became smooth again..

The other issue I had was a broken wire to the cyl head sensor, once I fixed the wire the code went.
Makes you wonder why they put the cyl head sensor at the back or the engine underneath the inlet manifold though?

I bought the whole gasket kit in preparation of taking the manifold off and then found the broken wire before I did....
FYI ,...you don't need any new gaskets to remove and replace your intake manifold , all the gaskets are reusable silicon , just use over .
 
  #24  
Old 07-26-2014, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ojai150
FYI ,...you don't need any new gaskets to remove and replace your intake manifold , all the gaskets are reusable silicon , just use over .

Bit late to find out if the gaskets are reusable once the thing is in pieces though and you then have to buy a gasket set that takes a week to arrive from the other side of the world.....
 
  #25  
Old 07-26-2014, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Byooty
Bit late to find out if the gaskets are reusable once the thing is in pieces though and you then have to buy a gasket set that takes a week to arrive from the other side of the world.....
That's true , but I personally have had the intake off my '04 5.4 4 times and reused all the gaskets every time , they don't stick you can pull them off with your fingers .

BUT ,...it would be wise to have a standbye set ,...
 
  #26  
Old 07-26-2014, 06:33 PM
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can anyone tell me a way to increase rpm?
 
  #27  
Old 07-26-2014, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by lkammer
can anyone tell me a way to increase rpm?
From memory its set by the Idle Air Control valve electronically.
 
  #28  
Old 07-26-2014, 07:22 PM
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The idle is not adjustable it is computer controlled. Your friend with the scanner did he do a KOER test.
 
  #29  
Old 08-06-2014, 10:19 AM
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Check engine light come back on, I brought it to the dealer for 2nd opinion...PO22 code came up. They also said they found metal shavings in the oil. They suggested i trade my 12,500 truck in for 4000, for a new/used truck.when i got home i changed the oil and poured it through a funnel with a super fine brass screen did not see one spec of metal. none on drain plug either? I did get some (very little)sludge .I wonder if some residual sludge blocking screens on solenoids?
 
  #30  
Old 08-06-2014, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lkammer
Check engine light come back on, I brought it to the dealer for 2nd opinion...PO22 code came up. They also said they found metal shavings in the oil. They suggested i trade my 12,500 truck in for 4000, for a new/used truck.when i got home i changed the oil and poured it through a funnel with a super fine brass screen did not see one spec of metal. none on drain plug either? I did get some (very little)sludge .I wonder if some residual sludge blocking screens on solenoids?
Can you get that dealer to put all that in writing ?
 


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