Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Not a Mechanic But?

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  #31  
Old 08-04-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 3KP
Nope not sure! according to my haynes book they call ball joints but when I try to shop for them on line (rockautoparts) I only find uppers and no lowers for the 4WD trucks???
I downloaded pics of ball joints and king pins, but I can't figure out how to post them from my phone.
Jump on Google images and google both and compare. Or take a pic of yours and post it here.
 
  #32  
Old 08-05-2014, 10:37 AM
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The jerk and popping is more then likely your front axle joints. With hubs locked out and t-case in 2wd, turn the wheels to the one side and try to turn the axle shafts, if you can't the u-joints are seized.
 
  #33  
Old 08-05-2014, 08:32 PM
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Well today I finally threw in the towel and to it to my mechanic. He looked at it and said it's a king pin system but not one he's seen before. SO that doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy. (More GM mechanic background) He gave me a quote of $1300-1800.00 price depends on 2 nuts that cost around $200 in his price book. I'm currently looking for another shop that is more ford background. I did call Ford dealer and they said there data base doesn't go back that far..

 
  #34  
Old 08-05-2014, 08:56 PM
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Can you post some pics of what you have?
 
  #35  
Old 08-05-2014, 11:09 PM
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3kp.

I have a great mechanic in bensalem that works on my f350 91 7.3. he does it as side work, and works for robs towing on the big trucks there as his main job. he saved me a ton of money by doing my whole front end for me.

let me know if you want his number, and ill PM it to you.

--Dave
 
  #36  
Old 08-06-2014, 06:14 AM
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Dave

Greatly appreciate that but I'm not near there. I'm in Indianapolis Indiana.

As for requested pictures my truck is still at the mechanics shop at the moment.
 
  #37  
Old 08-06-2014, 08:43 AM
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sorry for some reason i thought you were local to me. my mistake.

--Dave
 
  #38  
Old 08-06-2014, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by davidwjacob
sorry for some reason i thought you were local to me. my mistake.

--Dave
It's all good Dave.

Today called 5 different shops only 2 of them would consider doing my king pins. One shop is 3 weeks behind so they can't even look at it until then. The other shop I made an appointment for Saturday 9 am to look at it. They specialize in 4X4 vehicles. They said they would most likely will need to order parts.
 
  #39  
Old 08-06-2014, 08:24 PM
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Man, too bad I'm not closer, I'd come give you a hand to do it yourself. I hate to see anyone pay shop prices. Although I have heard of them being a bear to remove at times.
Keep us posted.
 
  #40  
Old 08-09-2014, 06:51 PM
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Pictures

I believe these are what you need to see in pictures






Well after taking it to another shop this morning. (4wdparts) They said my king pins are still in place but are rusting. (suggest having them changed out. The reason I'm feeling the shift in the front end is from traction bar bushings being bad. Also recommend replacing all my U-joints the all have little play in them. Basically rebuild my whole front end and new U-joints on the rear shaft with new carrier $1800- 2K

I know how to do U-joints done in the past on one of my 79 F150 (10 years ago)

My question is I was looking on line and noticed they offer different diameters 1-1/16 to 1-3/16 Why different sizes? I would figure Ford would use the same part size on every F350 for this year
 
  #41  
Old 08-09-2014, 07:46 PM
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I think the u joints differed depending on if you have a one piece or two piece drive shaft, standard vs. auto and probably gas vs. diesel.
You obviously have a 2 piece shaft and diesel. I'm pretty certain your truck takes the bigger joints.
If you have the availability of another vehicle, you could remove them and take them with you to the parts store.
It's been a while since I did mine, but I think the front and rear shafts took different joints, but they were the same for their respective drive shaft.
Rock Auto is usually pretty accurate. They're showing part #45U0109 for the rear shaft. That's for a greasable ACDelco joint.
 
  #42  
Old 08-09-2014, 08:13 PM
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I was on RockAuto looking at them. I was going to use the brand Moog since I bought that for my tie rods. I did crawl under my truck and measured across the hub of the joint. Looked to be 1-1/316

Going to order Moog part # 294, #232 #374 (u-joints)
Traction bar bushing kit Moog K80034
Front sway bar Moog K8663

Not sure if I'm going to tackle the bearings and seals on the axles. Never done that before. Probably most likely have someone do the king pins. Lot of shops here turn their nose up when I talked to them. (PITA I've been told) A guy I know has done them before said he would do the king pins for $500 if I get the parts. I might take him up on that. Wish I was more knowledgeable on these things. ( also would be nice if I had a garage to work in . Some day I will have me a pole barn built)
 
  #43  
Old 08-09-2014, 08:41 PM
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Bearings and seals are no problem. It's worth it the buy the right socket for the lock nuts. It's a good idea to know how to pull them and repack them with grease anyhow.

Make sure you replace the center support bearing on your drive shaft. It's pressed on. I did mine w/out a press, but I wouldn't do it again that way. I've used Moog before also. I've never had any issues with their parts. I put AC Delco parts on this time cause that's what the local parts store carries. I try to stay out of the AutoZones and Advance as much as possible.

I've never done King Pins either. From what I've heard, its probably a toss up as to whos making out @ 500 depending on how much trouble they give him. I'd do them myself just because I've never done them before and probably still spend the 500 by the time it was all said and done. LOL.
 
  #44  
Old 08-09-2014, 09:08 PM
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I seen that I can get the whole carrier with new bearing for around $20.00 think that may be easier? But I could be wrong
 
  #45  
Old 08-10-2014, 07:58 AM
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Should I replace the spindle bearings as well? Will they require a press?

IS there any special tools required to remove the hub or wheel bearing?

Thanks
Michael
 


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