51panelman. PM sent

I had a couple free minutes this weekend to take a closer look at my fuel leak. i pulled the inlet hose and the fitting to find that the threads in housing have been many times cross threaded and likely the reason for the leak while running. I need to find a replacement housing. any ideas? last resort i will look at EBAY. From what i can tell i have the holley 2 bbl model 94? mainly because mine look similar to others online identified as such.
I have also decided that i am going to pull the fuel line (rubber and soft) back to the electric fuel pump and tank. I want to pipe the majority in steel.
I poked my head under the rear diff and found the tag in the photo below. all it has is an "N" on one side of the tag then a 47/11 the 47 is above a horizontal line and 11 is below. i can only assume that this is the tooth count for the ring / pinion. looks like i have some stump pulling 4:27 gears. did i decode this correctly? i will count the revolutions when i can get a helper.

I also identified some of my slop in the steering. most is right at the pitman arm to drag link ball joint. is this a rebuildable joint or replace? where can i source the parts?
I have the original oil filter system and i want to replace the element and change the oil just because i have no idea when it was last done. anyone know a part number and where i can get one? my last resort is speedway?

 

Very good idea on using steel fuel line as much as possible. I used stuff from NAPA with internal coating, and flared connections. Have had no problems.

NAPA #1006 is the element.

The drag link ball is part of the pitman arm, but quality new pitmans are available from Joblot Automotive for about $80, if you need one. (Sounds likely) The drag link is completely rebuildable, the seats that the ***** ride in are replaceable. Get new grease seals for the drag link at the same time.

Ford Drag Link Seals - 7RC-3336 - C&G Ford Parts

Ford Tie Rod & Drag Link Repair Kit - A8TZ-3533-A - C&G Ford Parts

 

albuq-F1
thanks! outstanding information, I will need to get my order placed.

 

so the P.O had installed a 3 on the tree column and shifter on my truck in hopes to get rid of the non syncro truck trans. From what i have read, there are 2 different 3 speeds in 1952. how can i identify each? what other vehicles can i look for that would have this setup?

 

The column shift 3 speed is the light duty version, replacing the floor shift LD 3 speed used earlier. The heavy duty version was floor shift only and much larger. The column shift trans was used from the change in late 1950 through 1952. 53 and newer truck transmissions used a different rear mount and do not interchange. Car transmissions are totally different.

 

so i need a 50-52 f1 light duty 3 speed to use the column shift.

if i wanted to go to a floor shift 3 speed, what would be a bolt in to replace my 4 speed (i realize the access cover will need modified.

 

Welcome to this forum!

I just had my drag link off to check for wear as I was replacing the king pins.

When I first saw your picture of the drag link, I thought there was an awfully large amount of recess in the end where we can see the plug. That would indicate to me that the ball on the pitman arm is worn.
With mine adjusted correctly, the slot in the plug is almost flush with the cotter pin.

But that may be an optical illusion in your pic.

 

As long as you stay in the 48-52 family, you should be fine.

 

would this be the correct trans?

 

I ended up picking this up for my transmission swap. Its been rebuilt, should save me some time and money finding a core and rebuilding it. obviously i am now in the market for the yoke and speedo drive housing / gear.

anyone?

 

the copper set of wheels i had on the truck has a bald set of mismatched tires and 2 wheels had a pretty good bend to them. i was able to locate a set of 4 original kelsey hayes wheels. They are likely off an early model jeep cj series or a early for bronco, since the center hub opening is 4.25". For what i want to do it should work fine. I stripped them all down, checked them on a balancer for true, then sprayed them cream white. When the paint sets up a bit more i will take them outside for some better pictures. I got some chrome caps and bullet lugs for pretty cheap so that should dress them up a bit.



late in the week i hope to get some blackwall radials mounted. I am pretty sure i am going 225/75/15

 

It has been a while since my last post in this thread so here is a little update. I painted up my "new" wheels and had some 225-75-15 radials mounted up.

I decided i wanted to lower the truck some 2-3". I pulled the rear suspension apart and replaced all the pins and bushings. I also removed some leafs to soften the ride some and lower it a bit. not to mention getting rid of the overload spring pack. i had some "u" bolts bent up and put it all back together.
The front took me a tad longer because i wanted to rebuild the drag link assembly. As expected the ***** were worn so I had to R and R the steering arm side. About a month ago i picked up a pretty nice used pitman arm, so i put that on.
One thing i noticed on the rebuild was the size difference of the drag link plug. Aftermarket parts better than the alternative but need to be inspected before use.

I cleaned up my original plugs and ran them.
Since i am on a budget i needed to address the tie rod adjustment sleeve that looked like a boomerang. i pulled it apart and the tie rods looked usable for now so i cleaned them up and painted them. I straightened the sleeve and painted it up and will run it for now.
Next i pulled the front springs and installed a pair of dual leaf reverse eyes from Posies.
When all the dust settled i wound up with the rear lowered 2.75" and 2" on the front. i suspect that it may lower a touch more once i get a few miles on it.




i put about 20 miles on it this weekend, going to a 4th of july breakfast, picking up landscape materials, trips to home depot etc. Other than that i let it sit outside so i could see it. Yes it is dirty! i used it to haul a bed full of thatch, weeds etc on the back of my property so i can burn them, (better than 10 trips with the wheel barrow).

 

Looks great! Congrats on the progress.

 

Nice stance. Now I can see what Posies reverse springs look like on the truck. Good job on the wheels. Different than the burnt orange look. What does the inside of the bed look like? Hauling backyard stuff sounds like you use the truck for what it was built for.

 

the rear bed floor is diamond plate painted. someone slapped it over the wood bed. Some day i may pull it out and re-do the wood but i would be too nervous to tear it up using it as a truck.