Crap! I ordered my fittings wrong, then! Oh well - thanks for the post before I put it together this weekend, bill. I did determine that the threads on an SD Bosch fuel pump are bspt, NOT npt, though!

And now I see what you did with the GP power and the oil pressure switch. That's pRetty slick! Where does that switch screw in? On the oil cooler/filter head? If so does it thread right in or need an adapter? (I'll be ordering fittings tomorrow so might As well order that now as well :-)

 

I'll have to take a look JP. It is off the oil cooler. I'll snap a pick when I'm under there. I'm just waiting for my wife to come home so I can leave the kids.

 

You. Don't need a reducer JP. It's 1/8" pipe thread.

 

I didn't get nearly what I wanted to get done last night. Dinner at my wife's grandparents and watch the kids for a couple hours took most of my night. However I did get the starter back in and connected the fuel pump wiring. I put one of the batteries in so I could do up the window(I found a cat has mad the driver seat home, grrrrrr). When I hooked up the battery I heard the vhf turn on and a familiar voice over the radio. There goes another 20 min I a full out catch up session. Man I want this thing back on the road. I put the ignition to run to check the fuel pump and leaks but couldn't hear the pump run. Wtf. Then I realized I hadn't hooked the ground up. I began to loosen another ground and snap. Efit I'm going to bed lol.

 

The pump won't run when you turn the key to the run position. It doesn't get power until the key is in the start position. then once the engine builds enough oil psi to close the N.O. side of the oil psi switch, it get it's power from the fuel bowl heater wire which has power on it when the key is in the run position. The point of the oil psi switch is so you can turn the key on without the pump running continuous.

 

The strictly diesel wiring only lets it run for 15-20 seconds then shuts the pump off.

 

Do they use a fuel pressure switch to shut the pump off when it builds up pressure?

 

No, after the 15-20 seconds the pump shuts off. If you start it in that time frame the oil pressure switch takes over and if no pressure, it shuts down. I like it because if I want to leave the key on for some reason the pump stops.

 

Bill it had nothing to do with power supply. I had no ground. The ground wire connected to nothing.

 

Your motor's looking great Nick. You're not far away now!

 

Nicks setup should work just like the strickly diesel wiring. Once the key is turned to 'Run' and the GPs come on, so will the pump. If the engine is not started, the pump will shut off with the GPs and come back on when there is oil pressure. That 3 terminal oil pressure switch is the key. And I really like how you can use just one relay and fit it in the fuse box. Nice work!

 

That's right. It should work exactly like that. Thanks for the compliment on the wiring but I got the switch info from Bill(reBilld)

 

My oil pressure switch has only two terminals??

 

Yeah that double-throw pressure switch makes for a super-slick setup. Especially in our trucks. Looks like Holley had gassers in mind and you're supposed to hook the one side to the starter relay wire. That way you get fuel pressure as soon as you start cranking.

Using the GPs on our trucks gives you that much more of a head start.
To take it a step further, I plan to put a t-valve just after my final filter. I'll use it for bleeding the system after filter changes, but also for filling gas cans for the tractor and generator in a pinch. I'll iust add a double-pole-double-throw switch in the cab that will cut the feed from the GPs and send a constant on signal to that side of the oil pressure switch. Heck, I can even run it right into the aux input on the generator...

 

In the wiring diagram the N.C. side of the switch says "12v when starter is engaged". I have mine wired like that. That wire comes from the load side of the starter relay. My pump gets no power until I turn the switch over to the "start" position. By the time the engine starts, the oil pressure has built up enough to switch the oil psi switch over to the N.O. side, and power to that terminal comes from the fuel bowl heater wire, which has power on it in the key on, or "run" position. Has nothing to do with the glow plugs. Wired like this, there is no way the pump can run just by turning the key on, unless the power coming to the N.C. side of the switch is coming from a source with key on power. Where did you get power from to the N.C. side of your switch Nick?

Does it run now just by turning the key on?