Hello I own a 94 5.8 F250 2WD Auto. 215k CLEAN
I am kinda stumped, The truck had a no start condition. No Spark from coil.
Found a ICM on E-Bay for $5.00 ya hoo, waited a few days for it to arrive. Replaced ICM on the firewall with the new one ( exsact
same one). Truck fired up and I drove around for 3-4 days, Man oh Man I was Happy, Until the dead zone again. Got the truck towed home, and began troubleshooting.
Theres no spark from coil, yet 12 volts on either side ign/on.
put spare coil on .....same thing. tried New Icm, same thing.
Went to wallmaret bought the code reader, cannister vent soliniod came up, checked it no blowby , opened and closed with 12v. Checked code again ,egr came up ( new at the code thing).
I dont think the egr(sensor)would produce a no start situation, just a rough run.
My next step, like my old 89, is the stator or pickup assembly in the dist. But part of thinks that not as common a problem as the 89s had because the Icm pluged right into th pickup, wereas th 94s have the icm mounted on the firewall, I have the feeling, (and I hate that feeling) when I change it, no results.
I would really appreciate som feedback



Local truker Ford C-8000 8.3, 5.0 berkley 17ft.

 

Sounds like your problem may be the PIP in the distributer. They won't always give you a code. check to see if you have a PIP with a black connector. I guess they caused a lot of trouble. The ones with lighter colored connectors are ok. Your next step is the TFI on the bottom of the dist. Get spark coming from the coil first. Don't worry about all the other stuff like the egr and cannister etc. The computers don't go bad as often as people like to think they do and they will go into a failsafe mode just to run the engine. Then you can start fixing all the other codes.
You have to jerk the dist to replace these parts so maybe you can find another to try first.

 

Stop buying parts; buy a Haynes manual and a multimeter. With them, you can test each component of the ignition system (and the rest of the truck) until you find the fault.

 

I will yank the dist. again Sunday, Ive got the manual, and the multimeter. Ive got power to the pip, when I pulled the dist. there was a lot of crud and debri , I put er back in right. ( i was suprised, gear looked good, little end play,still no spark.
Damn good advise Ill check for signal from pip before I pull it.
I guess im thinking its just got to be this or that, I miss the carb days.
Thanks again.

 

Well did the system checks before pulling the dist, coil ok, icm ok,
man its got to be the pick up in the dist. I checked for pip signal( stick the pin through the # 1 wire Harness side, not dist side.
Decided to poke into the spongy stuff behind the connecter with my positive lead and negative lead to ground, supposted to get 3.0 to 8.5 acvolts.
So Im all connected my buddy turns the engine over and it starts.
WOW turned off, checked my codes all good no egr code, or canister solinoid.
I guess my positive lead completed the pip signal.
Book and Multimeter, best tool.
Thanks very much to all that replied to this thread.

FORD FOREVER

 

Could also be the ignition mod. on the drivers side by the fire wall. They are about 50 bucks. If it doesnt solve the problem, it is always good to have a spare with you anyways

 

Great, three days later the truck wont start.
No spark, Ive got continuity through the dist harness connection, but my ac volts is low on the pip wire. Im getting a signal from the pip but low 1.8 - 2.1.
The funny thing is when I realized there was a short in dist. harness connection, the fist time, I heard a "CLICK', like a relay,
then she fired.

 

Most multimeters don't actually measure AC - they guess by assuming it's 60Hz (like household 110/220 VAC). Since your PIP isn't running at exactly 60Hz, the displayed voltage is inaccurate, probably to the extreme.

You might buy a complete reman distributor with the PIP installed and just plug it into your truck, without actually installing it into the engine. Then just turn the key to RUN and spin the reman by hand to see if its PIP works. If it doesn't, you can return the "unused" reman for a full refund and keep looking.

If it does work, you'll probably get a better warranty and be better off using the reman instead of rebuilding your old dist.

 

re the dist. got the pick-up sensor (PIP) (stator) installed, (bought from ford for $10more than Lordco)installed in engine, my digital multimeter read 5.8 - 6.0 when she fired
I pulled the spout to adjust the timing, the timing guide on the side of the block has me confused, its not a gauge, its like half the top of a pop can, a small half circle in the middle, a flat spot on the end.
I adjusted to the far end of the flat spot.
I hope thats right?
Thanks again for the feed on this thread.

 

The pointer at the R end should line up with the 10° mark stamped into the harmonic balancer (big pulley). Yours won't look exactly like this, but it's similar.

 

Thanks ALOT for all the help.
Truck runs perfect.