1978 F250 Supercab Restoration
#31
Sorry for not having posted much these last couple months. Life hit me this summer and has left me with some big medical bills and more to come in the next month but hopefully everything with that will be done this month. Because of that I haven't been able to work on the truck that much aside from starting it at least once a week.
I sold my 93 F250 yesterday to offset some bills so I have my 87 back on the road now but that's only for a couple months because the new owners will be taking it in a month or two so what's probably going to happen with the 78 now is bring it to a local body shop and have them replace the floor for me and I'll be putting most of it back together to drive it for the winter and I'm starting to think winter will be here early this year since we've had frost a couple mornings already and the temps have been ranging in the 40's and 50's the last couple days so I have to get on the floor pan soon.
On a positive note I'll probably be having another dent by the end of this week. I'm not going to say what it is yet but the price is so ridiculously right that I'm willing to shell out some cash to get it even if it has to sit a while.
I need some information on the factory cruise setups. I pulled the vacuum part with the chain on it but it's kind of oily so is it ok to take these apart to clean and reassemble or are they supposed to stay sealed and is there anyway to be sure if it's still good? Also is there anyway I can test it to see if it works without driving? I know with the newer ones you can use a multimeter on the harness to check it so can you do something similar with the old style? I can't seem to find anything searching here and google and I can't find any companies selling parts for this system so any help? If there's any diagrams anyone has saved could they be posted? My Chilton manual doesn't have any...
I'm also trying to figure out why when it rains for a while the drivers side floor pan has a small puddle in the floor grooves right under the steering wheel. I've poured buckets of water on the cab and can't see any visible leaks but it's always there after it rains. I'm suspecting the holes in the door from the original west coast tow mirrors but I'd think if it was that there should be a puddle closer to the door panel so I'm at a loss.
I sold my 93 F250 yesterday to offset some bills so I have my 87 back on the road now but that's only for a couple months because the new owners will be taking it in a month or two so what's probably going to happen with the 78 now is bring it to a local body shop and have them replace the floor for me and I'll be putting most of it back together to drive it for the winter and I'm starting to think winter will be here early this year since we've had frost a couple mornings already and the temps have been ranging in the 40's and 50's the last couple days so I have to get on the floor pan soon.
On a positive note I'll probably be having another dent by the end of this week. I'm not going to say what it is yet but the price is so ridiculously right that I'm willing to shell out some cash to get it even if it has to sit a while.
I need some information on the factory cruise setups. I pulled the vacuum part with the chain on it but it's kind of oily so is it ok to take these apart to clean and reassemble or are they supposed to stay sealed and is there anyway to be sure if it's still good? Also is there anyway I can test it to see if it works without driving? I know with the newer ones you can use a multimeter on the harness to check it so can you do something similar with the old style? I can't seem to find anything searching here and google and I can't find any companies selling parts for this system so any help? If there's any diagrams anyone has saved could they be posted? My Chilton manual doesn't have any...
I'm also trying to figure out why when it rains for a while the drivers side floor pan has a small puddle in the floor grooves right under the steering wheel. I've poured buckets of water on the cab and can't see any visible leaks but it's always there after it rains. I'm suspecting the holes in the door from the original west coast tow mirrors but I'd think if it was that there should be a puddle closer to the door panel so I'm at a loss.
#33
Bed is off!
I got the bed off this morning. After trying to figure out how to get it off by myself I decided to run two tow straps underneath the length of the bed and hooked the ends up to the forks on the tractor. Next time I'm going to run a 2x4 across the tailgate and the front of the bed to keep anything from kinking. The front was straight and solid but as soon as it lifted the right side kinked in a little and the tailgate trim dented slightly, good thing it was getting replaced anyways.
How's that for a temporary seat?
How's that for a temporary seat?
#36
Thanks, It's one of 3 with those paint codes. The first thing anyone says about my truck (besides that they had one at some point) is that they've never seen that color combo before.
Ha, road trip worthy. Might just have to call the interior done now!
Ha, road trip worthy. Might just have to call the interior done now!
#37
So I went out to the scrap yard today to get some square headlight buckets since the yard finally got an old ford in. After pulling the headlights I noticed kingpins on the front axle so I started to investigate a little, the ground was to wet and muddy for me to want to roll around under the truck and it had no wheels on it so I wasn't able to get at an ID plate on the back of the tube but I'm thinking this is a Dana 60 front. the VIN on the door jamb sticker started with F26 so 78 4x4 but the VIN plate on the door was gone so I have no axle codes so is this a Dana 60 front? I'm going on Monday to look at it again if it doesn't snow all weekend and into next week like I've been hearing but I'd like some confirmation from someone more knowledgeable than myself. I've always heard high pinion, leaf sprung, drivers side differential, and kingpins were Ford Dana 60's. You can see the length of the short shaft some in the picture of the dif cover, my understanding is that the 78/79 Dana 60's had a longer short shaft.
#38
#39
What are the pick and pull prices usually? There isn't one near me. They already gave me a price for the axle but I'm not going to say it until I get it.
#40
I'll roll around in just about anything for a good deal. This past winter with 8" snow, I got a 4.5" rubicon express lift kit for my jeep for about $250 versus $1200 new.
A 4x4 front axle assembly from my usual PnP is $175 and dentsides aren't very common in the KC area PnP's , mostly 2wd's.
Good luck and go prepared for the elements and the task at hand! $500 or less is a bargain IMO. They typically go for 1000/1200 , I payed a 1000 + traded 2 D44's that I grenaded for my 1st D60 front axle, that was 14 years ago.
A 4x4 front axle assembly from my usual PnP is $175 and dentsides aren't very common in the KC area PnP's , mostly 2wd's.
Good luck and go prepared for the elements and the task at hand! $500 or less is a bargain IMO. They typically go for 1000/1200 , I payed a 1000 + traded 2 D44's that I grenaded for my 1st D60 front axle, that was 14 years ago.
#41
#43
Maybe if you add another 0 to that $100 for $1600 I'd have just stuck with the dana 44 but I suppose with your diesel swap the 60 really helped.
#44
Yeah my closed knuckle dana 44hd was shot to hell anyway. With very limited rebuild parts, drum brakes and the weight of my Cummins it made sense to upgrade.
#45