I don't have a engine hoist. My tractor lift about 12' so I would probably just block the cylinders so I don't have to worry about the loader dropping then use a chain hoist.

 

There's enough oil on the bottom of this engine that it would take a long time to rust. It's been leaking for a long time. Never really leaves much on the ground though.

 

Is it possible to do an accurate comp test on the floor. Without the trans.

 

Yes you can. Motor won't be warm, but not a deal breaker. I've done quite a few compression tests with a cold motor.

 

Pulling a head in frame is not too big of a deal.
But a few hours time we can have a 7.3 out and on a stand and do everything to you can imagine. But here, when we pull for rusty oil pans it usually turns into quite a project so it's worth it to have on a stand.

 

What a nightmare! I think I would really try to find a borescope to look down the hole just to be able to see what is going on. If the tip is only slightly swollen, then you could keep working on it, but if it is badly melted and isn't going to come out the hole, then I really think I would try knocking it into the cylinder and fishing it out with a magnet (assuming the tip is magnetic) or a set of Tom's "magic fingers". I agree with the others who have said that I would view pulling the head as a last resort. Remember that you'll have to deal with the resealing (possible machining, etc) and getting all those decrepit exhaust manifold bolts out if you go that route. That is a job much more easily done one a stand in my opinion, but if Jim says it can be done in the truck, then I believe him. That just sounds like a lot of work...

 

Nate,
With a cherry picker it's quite easy, actually. The head balances very well when you get the chain in just the right spot. Same with install, have it hang at the right angle and it just sets back down. It's not much more work under the hood, if all you are going to do is pull the head, and save a bunch of time by not pulling the motor.

 

How is it trying to remove frozen exhaust manifold bolts in the truck? Or do you typically just take the up-pipe loose and remove the head with the manifold on it? I just don't know what kind of job it would be cleaning up the surfaces so that things will seal back up like they should.

It sure seems to me like it would be worth a shot at fishing the piece out before pulling the head. If you say it isn't that big a deal, I'll take that as gospel because you're the one making a living doing this kind of thing!

 

pull the head with manifold on and then take it off out of truck on the work bench.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said.
Rusted manifolds are a nightmare on the truck. Most times we cut the bolt heads off, get the manifold out of the way and the bolts usually come right out of the head with vise grips. Usually they rust to the manifolds and not in the head. Sometimes just torch the manifold to pieces and replace it. We've seen trucks that had no visible signs of bolt heads at all, just a mass of rust from one end to the other of the manifold.

 

Um, wouldn't you leave the manifolds, up-pipes and turbo in place, and just disconnect at the downpipe?

 

If you are pulling the head off, you need to disconnect the up-pipe to the exhaust manifold. On a crusty rusty truck this is often easier said than done.

 

That was the plan. I'm gonna be to busy this week to do much of anything on it. But it will give me a bit of time to figure it out. I'm leaning towards pulling the motor for the simple reason of no more oil leaks, and it would make it real easy to make my own up pipes

 

True, but once out of the truck. Or is the full engine pull no longer on the menu?

 

Haven't completely decided. I'm to busy this week but I have the room and the tools. I still have my old truck to drive while I'm at it as well. It seems to make sense to pull it now and get all the little stuff dealt with in one shot.