Project Bronco '95 XLT 5.8/E4OD
#16
03-21-2014, 12:37 PM
Fleet Mechanic
Wow I can imagine the frustration of the water pump bolts breaking... I never broke mine, but I had to take it off recently and I changed some of my bolts.
The stud bolts I had looked like garbage, and I couldn't find any replacements, so I just used a normal bolt from the local hardware store. It was more difficult getting the AC/PS bracket in place without it, but not too bad.
I supposed it's good all that happened too because if it didn't, then you would have seen the crack in the timing cover soon after. My timing cover had corrosion near the water ports a few years ago, so I had to replace it with a napa one. I think I spent about 100 on mine though.
If I were buying it, I would like the stock black color. I always liked black on vehicles, and the gloss black looks really good. I'm not too sure what the John Deere Blitz black is, so I can't really comment on that. But.. I think you should keep it! You're doing all this work just to sell it!? If it's your only bronco, you'll be sorry getting rid of it!
Repainting replaced parts probably wouldn't be too bad, just a bit of work (assuming you're doing it yourself). My hood/top/upper tailgate were badly oxidized from the sun and the clear was almost totally gone in some large areas. I decided to see if I was talented enough to repaint them at home, borrowing some equipment. For painting at night/outside where there are dirt roads, my paint came out very well. I still have some orange peel texture left to get rid of, but it looks pretty good. It honestly looks like the stock paint is in good condition still so I'm happy with it. The cost of all material (paint/clear, plastic wrap for masking off, sanding disks, grease and wax remover) was a little over $300. That was enough paint to do three coats of paint and clear on my hood, the cab top, the upper half of the front fenders, and the upper portion of the tailgate. I didn't use primer because I had a small layer of old paint/primer left I was using. I did a really good prep job and after two years, the paint is still holding up well here in the AZ sun where I have no shade.
A side question, why did you decide to sell your lightning F-150?
The stud bolts I had looked like garbage, and I couldn't find any replacements, so I just used a normal bolt from the local hardware store. It was more difficult getting the AC/PS bracket in place without it, but not too bad.
I supposed it's good all that happened too because if it didn't, then you would have seen the crack in the timing cover soon after. My timing cover had corrosion near the water ports a few years ago, so I had to replace it with a napa one. I think I spent about 100 on mine though.
If I were buying it, I would like the stock black color. I always liked black on vehicles, and the gloss black looks really good. I'm not too sure what the John Deere Blitz black is, so I can't really comment on that. But.. I think you should keep it! You're doing all this work just to sell it!? If it's your only bronco, you'll be sorry getting rid of it!
Repainting replaced parts probably wouldn't be too bad, just a bit of work (assuming you're doing it yourself). My hood/top/upper tailgate were badly oxidized from the sun and the clear was almost totally gone in some large areas. I decided to see if I was talented enough to repaint them at home, borrowing some equipment. For painting at night/outside where there are dirt roads, my paint came out very well. I still have some orange peel texture left to get rid of, but it looks pretty good. It honestly looks like the stock paint is in good condition still so I'm happy with it. The cost of all material (paint/clear, plastic wrap for masking off, sanding disks, grease and wax remover) was a little over $300. That was enough paint to do three coats of paint and clear on my hood, the cab top, the upper half of the front fenders, and the upper portion of the tailgate. I didn't use primer because I had a small layer of old paint/primer left I was using. I did a really good prep job and after two years, the paint is still holding up well here in the AZ sun where I have no shade.
A side question, why did you decide to sell your lightning F-150?
#17
03-21-2014, 12:52 PM
Wow I can imagine the frustration of the water pump bolts breaking... I never broke mine, but I had to take it off recently and I changed some of my bolts.
The stud bolts I had looked like garbage, and I couldn't find any replacements, so I just used a normal bolt from the local hardware store. It was more difficult getting the AC/PS bracket in place without it, but not too bad.
I supposed it's good all that happened too because if it didn't, then you would have seen the crack in the timing cover soon after. My timing cover had corrosion near the water ports a few years ago, so I had to replace it with a napa one. I think I spent about 100 on mine though.
If I were buying it, I would like the stock black color. I always liked black on vehicles, and the gloss black looks really good. I'm not too sure what the John Deere Blitz black is, so I can't really comment on that. But.. I think you should keep it! You're doing all this work just to sell it!? If it's your only bronco, you'll be sorry getting rid of it!
Repainting replaced parts probably wouldn't be too bad, just a bit of work (assuming you're doing it yourself). My hood/top/upper tailgate were badly oxidized from the sun and the clear was almost totally gone in some large areas. I decided to see if I was talented enough to repaint them at home, borrowing some equipment. For painting at night/outside where there are dirt roads, my paint came out very well. I still have some orange peel texture left to get rid of, but it looks pretty good. It honestly looks like the stock paint is in good condition still so I'm happy with it. The cost of all material (paint/clear, plastic wrap for masking off, sanding disks, grease and wax remover) was a little over $300. That was enough paint to do three coats of paint and clear on my hood, the cab top, the upper half of the front fenders, and the upper portion of the tailgate. I didn't use primer because I had a small layer of old paint/primer left I was using. I did a really good prep job and after two years, the paint is still holding up well here in the AZ sun where I have no shade.
A side question, why did you decide to sell your lightning F-150?
The stud bolts I had looked like garbage, and I couldn't find any replacements, so I just used a normal bolt from the local hardware store. It was more difficult getting the AC/PS bracket in place without it, but not too bad.
I supposed it's good all that happened too because if it didn't, then you would have seen the crack in the timing cover soon after. My timing cover had corrosion near the water ports a few years ago, so I had to replace it with a napa one. I think I spent about 100 on mine though.
If I were buying it, I would like the stock black color. I always liked black on vehicles, and the gloss black looks really good. I'm not too sure what the John Deere Blitz black is, so I can't really comment on that. But.. I think you should keep it! You're doing all this work just to sell it!? If it's your only bronco, you'll be sorry getting rid of it!
Repainting replaced parts probably wouldn't be too bad, just a bit of work (assuming you're doing it yourself). My hood/top/upper tailgate were badly oxidized from the sun and the clear was almost totally gone in some large areas. I decided to see if I was talented enough to repaint them at home, borrowing some equipment. For painting at night/outside where there are dirt roads, my paint came out very well. I still have some orange peel texture left to get rid of, but it looks pretty good. It honestly looks like the stock paint is in good condition still so I'm happy with it. The cost of all material (paint/clear, plastic wrap for masking off, sanding disks, grease and wax remover) was a little over $300. That was enough paint to do three coats of paint and clear on my hood, the cab top, the upper half of the front fenders, and the upper portion of the tailgate. I didn't use primer because I had a small layer of old paint/primer left I was using. I did a really good prep job and after two years, the paint is still holding up well here in the AZ sun where I have no shade.
A side question, why did you decide to sell your lightning F-150?
Thanks man, Blitz black is a satin / hotrod black. Like black primer but shinier.
I sold my Lightning because we needed money for a down payment on a house. I don't regret it, it was the right thing to do at the time, but damn do I miss it. If it came up for sale and I had the cash I'd buy it back in an instant. It's my favorite vehicle that I have ever had. I did buy the '77 in my signature with some of the money. I like that truck a lot, but it's just not the same thing.
Painting the blue parts back to the correct color is kind of a **** sandwich. The paint on the rest of the Bronc is decent, but it does have the rain gutter cracks, as well as the tailgate being pretty beat up at the top, so by the time you paint the front end pieces, might as well paint the whole damn thing.
I should probably get it put back together and drive it for a while, see how good of a vehicle it's going to turn out.
#18
03-21-2014, 02:20 PM
Fleet Mechanic
Yeah, I suppose worrying about the paint could wait until later. Selling your truck to buy a house is a smart move.. I would be pretty upset to let my truck go though.
However, even though I put tons of work into making my bronco nice, it won't be worth that much money unless I keep it in its current condition for another 20 years. So for the money I would get selling my bronco, I don't think it would be worth it for me!
Painting your whole bronco would be nice, but I still don't think it would be fully necessary. If the rain gutter cracks are referring to those things above the driver and passenger doors, mine has those too, but they aren't really that big of a deal, at least to me. Like I said, I was able to paint the top of my tailgate (besides oxidized, it has some scratches and other marks) and I didn't find it all too bad really. But painting anything is a lot of prep work... I don't know how many coats of black you would need to cover up that blue either.
I'm in favor of doing a partial repaint, but then again you probably know what will be easier/better based the work/money you'll have to spend.
The matte black type paint would look really cool too I think, but I don't think that style paint ever looks as "sharp" as a nice gloss paint job.
Anyways, testing the functionality and drive ability first is probably more important! You should post some pictures of it up and running when you have time!
However, even though I put tons of work into making my bronco nice, it won't be worth that much money unless I keep it in its current condition for another 20 years. So for the money I would get selling my bronco, I don't think it would be worth it for me!
Painting your whole bronco would be nice, but I still don't think it would be fully necessary. If the rain gutter cracks are referring to those things above the driver and passenger doors, mine has those too, but they aren't really that big of a deal, at least to me. Like I said, I was able to paint the top of my tailgate (besides oxidized, it has some scratches and other marks) and I didn't find it all too bad really. But painting anything is a lot of prep work... I don't know how many coats of black you would need to cover up that blue either.
I'm in favor of doing a partial repaint, but then again you probably know what will be easier/better based the work/money you'll have to spend.
The matte black type paint would look really cool too I think, but I don't think that style paint ever looks as "sharp" as a nice gloss paint job.
Anyways, testing the functionality and drive ability first is probably more important! You should post some pictures of it up and running when you have time!
#20
03-24-2014, 10:47 AM
Sure man.
Got the water pump/timing cover job all finished up on Saturday and fired it up. Fingers crossed and no leaks. Tired of working in the cold garage and I wanted the Bronc outta the way so I drove it down to my place of work. Got the Magnaflow tailpipe fitted to the second cat with a few adapters. No muffler (no it's not loud the cats do most of the noise suppression) Changed the oil as I figured a little water may have gotten in when I pulled the timing cover.
Gave it a good check over while on the lift and it needs a few more things, but nothing major. Rear shocks and motor mounts. Need to figure out why the gas gauge doesn't work. I'll leave it out back at work until it's road ready. Plan to get the outside work all done and then move to the interior. Need some new rubber on the Lightning wheels, looking at 265/65-17 if anyone has a good suggestion.
Started working on the tailgate and it's going to need a good bit of work. I'll run it until it's time for paint and then just get a new one.
New water pump & timing cover
Old one cracked at the oil pan bolt
New tailpipe, I'll get pics up of the underneath when I have it on the lift again.
My little helper pulling the weather stripping
Pushing the tailgate skin back together with the shell
Better shot of the split
started tacking it back together
You can see the rivet on the top corner I used to hold it so I can repair
Inner brace I'll have to fab a replacement for, both sides are like this
Got the water pump/timing cover job all finished up on Saturday and fired it up. Fingers crossed and no leaks. Tired of working in the cold garage and I wanted the Bronc outta the way so I drove it down to my place of work. Got the Magnaflow tailpipe fitted to the second cat with a few adapters. No muffler (no it's not loud the cats do most of the noise suppression) Changed the oil as I figured a little water may have gotten in when I pulled the timing cover.
Gave it a good check over while on the lift and it needs a few more things, but nothing major. Rear shocks and motor mounts. Need to figure out why the gas gauge doesn't work. I'll leave it out back at work until it's road ready. Plan to get the outside work all done and then move to the interior. Need some new rubber on the Lightning wheels, looking at 265/65-17 if anyone has a good suggestion.
Started working on the tailgate and it's going to need a good bit of work. I'll run it until it's time for paint and then just get a new one.
New water pump & timing cover
Old one cracked at the oil pan bolt
New tailpipe, I'll get pics up of the underneath when I have it on the lift again.
My little helper pulling the weather stripping
Pushing the tailgate skin back together with the shell
Better shot of the split
started tacking it back together
You can see the rivet on the top corner I used to hold it so I can repair
Inner brace I'll have to fab a replacement for, both sides are like this
#21
03-26-2014, 08:29 PM
#22
03-27-2014, 11:11 AM
It's the vacuum for the blend/mode door on the inside.
Worked on rebuilding the tailgate last night, I'll get pics next time. Need to replace the torsion bar and one of the defroster tabs as well as the outside dew wipe and it should be good to go.
Anybody know a good source? I managed to un-solder the broken defrost tab and confirmed the window has good continuity. Went to the parts store thinking that Dorman made a repair kit but couldn't find anything.
Also need the torsion bar. Junkyard item?
Worked on rebuilding the tailgate last night, I'll get pics next time. Need to replace the torsion bar and one of the defroster tabs as well as the outside dew wipe and it should be good to go.
Anybody know a good source? I managed to un-solder the broken defrost tab and confirmed the window has good continuity. Went to the parts store thinking that Dorman made a repair kit but couldn't find anything.
Also need the torsion bar. Junkyard item?
#23
04-01-2014, 09:52 AM
Cross-Country
Confused??? Your signature lists a '95 Bronco but the pictures, to me, are showing a '96 Bronco. The front bumper area with the additional air inlet's and the black center inserts on the wheels are definitely '96. Regardless, you do some really good work on your restorations.
How "high" is the voltage represented on the front plate?
How "high" is the voltage represented on the front plate?
#24
04-01-2014, 10:42 AM
Confused??? Your signature lists a '95 Bronco but the pictures, to me, are showing a '96 Bronco. The front bumper area with the additional air inlet's and the black center inserts on the wheels are definitely '96. Regardless, you do some really good work on your restorations.
How "high" is the voltage represented on the front plate?
How "high" is the voltage represented on the front plate?
I don't believe either of those things are '96 only but the only other FSB I've had was a '96. The bumper on it now is from the junkyard, but it's the same type as the one it replaced. The wheels may not be original I suppose. The door jamb lists them as 15x7.5 but I always heard the bronco alcoas were 15x8. I have not measured them or cleaned the back to look at the stamping yet.
Simple green may have met it's match in this carpet. It's bad. I pre-treated it with simple green last night, and used the hot pressure washer on it for about twenty minutes without making a lot of headway. I may have to throw in the towel and order some replacement carpet for the front. I've used ACC in the past and not been super happy with the fit. Rock Auto has it for like $115 though so I'm tempted to pull the trigger.
#25
04-01-2014, 11:00 AM
Laughing Gas
I don't believe either of those things are '96 only but the only other FSB I've had was a '96. The bumper on it now is from the junkyard, but it's the same type as the one it replaced. The wheels may not be original I suppose. The door jamb lists them as 15x7.5 but I always heard the bronco alcoas were 15x8. I have not measured them or cleaned the back to look at the stamping yet.
95's had them too. Mine does.
#26
04-01-2014, 07:33 PM
Cross-Country
Whoops, I wish I could remember where I read about the black inserts.
#27
04-03-2014, 12:20 PM
I had the day off yesterday to get some things taken care of, so I took advantage of the snowy, muddy, ****ty, 30* weather to head to the pick-a-part.
I was glad I brought cover-alls and a spare pair of shoes.
Did manage to score pretty well though, $40 for the following
Bronco emblem
Driver's seat belt
Tailgate torsion bar, rust free
defroster terminal and connector
grille bottom rubbers
tailgate glass bottom bumper
and the score of the day = the '95 I was pilfering had a rear fitted husky liner, goes in the passenger foot well
Gonna try to get the tailgate rebuild wrapped up this weekend and re-group and come at the carpet another way.
Going to rip all the jute off the underneath and try cleaning it and replacing the insulation with new.
I was glad I brought cover-alls and a spare pair of shoes.
Did manage to score pretty well though, $40 for the following
Bronco emblem
Driver's seat belt
Tailgate torsion bar, rust free
defroster terminal and connector
grille bottom rubbers
tailgate glass bottom bumper
and the score of the day = the '95 I was pilfering had a rear fitted husky liner, goes in the passenger foot well
Gonna try to get the tailgate rebuild wrapped up this weekend and re-group and come at the carpet another way.
Going to rip all the jute off the underneath and try cleaning it and replacing the insulation with new.
#28
04-07-2014, 10:10 AM
So here is the carpet before. I've done what I can, holy **** it was a mess. It's good enough for driver status, but when it's time to make it real purdy I'll burn that ****.
It's a lot better, simple green and hot pressure washer. Don't ask me WTF the red stain is, I don't know.
one of the defrost tabs was broken, melted the solder and pulled it off, soldered one on that I got at the junkyard from the back window of an expedition. NOTE* I did use my small butane soldering torch, the window is tempered so you do NOT want to get it too hot. Keep the heat on the terminal, not the glass.
New vs. old broken torsion bar
Going in, you don't have to pull the gate or do anything with the hinge, it's a spring people, it bends. I did have to take the tire carrier off.
It doesn't look like a lot was accomplished from the pics, but a lot was accomplished, the tailgate is done except for the inner covers and outer weatherstripping.
It's a lot better, simple green and hot pressure washer. Don't ask me WTF the red stain is, I don't know.
one of the defrost tabs was broken, melted the solder and pulled it off, soldered one on that I got at the junkyard from the back window of an expedition. NOTE* I did use my small butane soldering torch, the window is tempered so you do NOT want to get it too hot. Keep the heat on the terminal, not the glass.
New vs. old broken torsion bar
Going in, you don't have to pull the gate or do anything with the hinge, it's a spring people, it bends. I did have to take the tire carrier off.
It doesn't look like a lot was accomplished from the pics, but a lot was accomplished, the tailgate is done except for the inner covers and outer weatherstripping.
#29
04-17-2014, 12:36 PM
Working at the interior going back together and the god damn rear spring hangers.
Shackle to hanger bolt is rusted the fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudge in there. Heated and beat it, removed the trailer hitch for more access, beat it some more with the air chisel, finally got one bolt to move 1/2" or so.
Screw it, picking up the dorman shackle and bolt kit at lunch. I'll just cut everything off and replace it.
This thing has no body rust at all, the frame isn't even that rusty. Holy ***** that rear shackle and hanger sure is though.
Having a little trouble with the driver's door latch, help!!!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...blem-help.html
Shackle to hanger bolt is rusted the fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudge in there. Heated and beat it, removed the trailer hitch for more access, beat it some more with the air chisel, finally got one bolt to move 1/2" or so.
Screw it, picking up the dorman shackle and bolt kit at lunch. I'll just cut everything off and replace it.
This thing has no body rust at all, the frame isn't even that rusty. Holy ***** that rear shackle and hanger sure is though.
Having a little trouble with the driver's door latch, help!!!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...blem-help.html
#30
04-18-2014, 10:25 AM
And now some pics of my super awesome exhaust.
Finally got the rear spring hangers replaced. The shackles were questionable looking also, and the shackle to hanger bolts were seized in the bushing sleeve. After heating, beating, impacting, air chiseling etc. for an hour or so I got one bolt to move about 1/2" out, so I said screw it and picked up the Dorman shackle kit also. Comes with new bolts and a spring for the leaf eye. Nothing would budge so I used the hot wrench and cut it off. I did end up having to pull the gas tank out to be able to tighten the hanger nuts and I had to replace one of the tow hitch bolts that broke off anyway. The fuel gauge wasn't working anyway, read empty when full. I tested the resistance of the sender and it read exactly what it should for empty with a full tank. I had a sneaking suspicion that either something was holding the float arm down or the float was sunk.
Yeah, that's not very safe
Don't freak, the nuts aren't tightened all the way yet. In fact they still aren't. I was so tired I said fugg it, I'll do it later.
Finally got the rear spring hangers replaced. The shackles were questionable looking also, and the shackle to hanger bolts were seized in the bushing sleeve. After heating, beating, impacting, air chiseling etc. for an hour or so I got one bolt to move about 1/2" out, so I said screw it and picked up the Dorman shackle kit also. Comes with new bolts and a spring for the leaf eye. Nothing would budge so I used the hot wrench and cut it off. I did end up having to pull the gas tank out to be able to tighten the hanger nuts and I had to replace one of the tow hitch bolts that broke off anyway. The fuel gauge wasn't working anyway, read empty when full. I tested the resistance of the sender and it read exactly what it should for empty with a full tank. I had a sneaking suspicion that either something was holding the float arm down or the float was sunk.
Yeah, that's not very safe
Don't freak, the nuts aren't tightened all the way yet. In fact they still aren't. I was so tired I said fugg it, I'll do it later.
