I thought it was a turbo IDI, and I knew it wasn't running well, but I bought it at night and the price was right.

I got it home and found out it was a powerstroke in the morning.

The truck doesn't have much power. It seems to be weak up to 1500-2000 RPM at which point it hits a wall. If I step down on the throttle, it POURS white smoke out of the exhaust. If I leave the throttle at the "wall" or below, it doesn't smoke at all. I also heard a high-pitched whine, which I'm assuming is a turbo leak.

All of my experience is with an IDI. This truck doesn't have a turbo boost gauge, but it does have a pyrometer. I haven't seen the pyro above 400 F.

The check engine light isn't on.

I've got a compression tester en route to my house and the fuel filter is spotless. I suppose my next step is to check that the turbo's turbine spins freely, and run a fuel pressure check at the schrader valve on the bowl.

374k, 4x4, ZF-5, $1500.

 

you got lucky with not having an idi !

does it only white smoke when cold or all the time?

 

It doesn't smoke at all really until I push the throttle past that acceleration wall. It blows white whether it's warm or cold.

Getting this truck to 40mph is a chore, and getting it over is impossible without a downhill slope.

 

is the idle smooth? or slobering all over its self?

also check the icp for oil in the connector at the sensor. AND disconnect the map sensor and drive and see if it perks him up any.
but yes check fuel pressure.

That was a smoking deal if you ask me..even if its a hand shaker lol

 

Nice find! For that money, you could part it out and make money.
Does the engine run smoothly until 1500 rpms then stumble, and slowly rev above that rpm? That and the white smoke is a sign of bad injector o-rings, which can be replaced for about $80 for the o-rings. The strokes have an exhaust back pressure valve that can manfunction and close cutting power and make a whining sound. You can unplug it as all it is for is to help the eengine get up to operating temps quicker. There is a 2 pronged plugin under the turbo on the drivers side that you can unplug, then wire the valve open.
If the injectors are still original at that milage, they are due for a rebuild.

 

You don't know the half of it. This truck has absolutely zero rust, and the best body I've ever seen on a sub 3k truck. The clutch is in great shape, the transmission is in better shape than the ZF-5 in my '88 IDI (which has half the miles), and I talked him into throwing in a full chord of split Douglas Fir firewood.

"Smoking deal" is a double pun:
1) The truck smokes when you stomp on it.
2) That still-green firewood would smoke, if I burned it now.

I wish I could say that some guy at the smoke shack tipped me off on this pickup, but that's not true .

 

LOL! Smoking deal! Good find though for sure. When it hits the wall you're talking about, is it still running smooth, or is it shaking and stumbling really bad?

 

It's smooth, just completely gutless. It's easily slower than my N/A 6.9 IDI right now.

If you stomp on the throttle and make it smoke, it doesn't go any faster.

 

Check for boost leaks and see if the turbo is spinning like it should. Take the intake boot off and see if there is any in and out end play on the shaft. It will have a tiny bit of up and down play, but in and out is not good.

 

Does this engine have 1 digital temperature sensore, or the 1 digital and 1 analog that I'm used to seeing on Fords?

I ask because the temperature gauge doesn't work. If the ECM is mis-reading the temperature, it could do all sorts of silly things in reaction.

 

Smoking deal is right! That's a great looking truck for that money.

As for the dash gauge, that's not likely the issue. The gauge in the dash reads coolant temperature and the PCM couldn't care less what the coolant temp is. It doesn't even read it. All it cares about it EOT (Engine Oil Temperature). I think Bill has you on the right track with the o-rings and the EBPV. Try unplugging the electrical connector for the EBPV and see if that helps you at all.

 

The truck has NO digital COOLANT temp sensors. It has one sensor for the gauge, and one for the light on the diesel-only light panel, neither of which go to the PCM. PCM monitors engine OIL temp only.

+1 EBPV; that's the first thing to take out of the equation.

The truck has AT LEAST 374,000 miles. The left-most digit doesn't go past 3, so the odometer rolls back to 300,000 after 399,999. Still, a ZF5 PSD as clean as that one would go for no less than $6k in these parts, mileage notwithstanding.

Circumstances of the purchase sound like a marriage sung about in a country song....

 

pm me the vin and i will run a background on it to see if that says it has more miles.

richard

 

Will do, thanks!

-Matt

 

Today I confirmed that I have a fuel supply issue. Below is a comprehensive run of my fuel system diagnostics to date.

Day 1: When I first looked at the truck. It started okay, ran like Hell, and wouldn't rev over 1500 while driving down the road.

Day 2: I picked up the truck and drove it home. Ran like Hell, would rev over 1500-2k, and a bitch to get up to 40mph. Would not exceed 40-45mph on flat ground. I noticed the "wall" in the power band, and if I pushed the throttle past it, the truck would bog down and smoke a LOT of white. Drove the truck home on the rear tank, the front was empty.

Day 3: The truck wouldn't start. I opened the hood and for the first time realized it was a Powerstroke. I checked the Schrader valve, and there was absolutely no pressure. Cranked the engine a bit, and there was still absolutely no pressure.

Day 4: Opened the fuel bowl and inspected the spotless fuel filter. Put it back together, the truck fired right up, and there WAS pressure at the Schrader valve. Drove it down to the fuel station, put 5 gallons in the front, switched to the front tank and drove it for another 10 minutes: no change.

Day 5: (Today) I took the intake apart, and verified that the turbo wheel is spinning with normal, smooth resistance, and has no free-play either in-out or side to side. There is some oil residue in the intake tube. I couldn't reach the plug for the EBPV, but I could put my hand on the actuator rod and verify the valve wasn't stuck. The spring action appears to work just fine. My plan was to start it and watch the actuator, expecting it to close the valve and then open it once the truck was warm. The truck wouldn't start. Once again, there is no pressure at the Schrader valve. Cranked it over a bit, and there was still no pressure at the Schrader valve. The truck is still set to run on the front tank.

So I have a fuel supply problem. I've ruled out the tanks by using both, with fresh fuel in the front. This should be pretty easy to figure out. I'm all over it.

Thanks
-Matt