Don't know where you are, but I might have a set of driveshafts for a 1994 manual F150 4x4 reg cab / long bed in philly. PM if interested

 

I'm 99% sure half ton driveshafts wouldn't work in a 1 ton. The u hints on my 94 f350 gasser were gigantic compared to the ujoints on my f150.

 

Your old auto trans is worth quite a bit of money if in working order. It may be worth your while to troubleshoot it, get it working properly, then post it for sale on craigslist. Potential buyer could drive or ride in your truck for proof that he is getting a good trans.

 

Im in the valley in california. my truck is the 1 ton and is diesel and i know the 1/2 ton shafts wouldn't work but thanks for the thought. I've been calling mechanics that have done these swops all the time (usually manual to automatic) and they said that they didn't have to change the shaft but id have to buy basically everything else. Before-during-after pics will be shown in future posts.

Cheers

 

I've done the swap the shafts are definitely different

 

Now which wires can I can remove from the steering column so I can have the clutch safety switch replaced back in? Also Id need pictures (or extreme detailed information) on this issue.

 

You do realize your automatic is fine, right? If your speedometer is not working, your transmission will not shift correctly. The vehicle speed goes through the speedometer, and the transmission is completely electronically controlled.

The ZF5 is like 10" shorter than an E4OD, your drive shafts will not work. This also means you need a different cross-member.

 

Yeah, I went E4OD to ZF as well..trust me, I tried re-using my old driveshaft before having a new rear tube made

 

Oh ok. How do I know if i really do have a E4OD or I could have a C6? Is the C6 and the E4OD the same length? Is it the same size as the ZF?

 

If you have overdrive, you have an E4OD. If your transmission stops shifting because your speedometer died, it's an E4OD.

The E4OD is much longer than a C6.

 

So I have done basically everything now for the swop. I need to figure out why she doesn't start up or turn over. What wires do i need to bypass or eliminate? Any help/comments/suggestions would be appreciated.

 

It starts and runs but seems sluggish compared to the automatic. is this normal? i also went from a dual 3" exhaust that exits in front of rear tire to a single 3" to same length

 

To me manual shift trucks always feel more sluggish then auto. I don't why.
Trav

 

well being in 4th gear maybe going 30-45mph is normal? should i rev it up higher to about 2300rpm before shifting or is shifting at 1500 ok?

 

Couple reasons for that...

One reason is that with an auto and it's torque converter (TC), the engine can rev up a bit before the tc reaches what's called stall speed, the speed at which it actually starts transfering most of the engine torque into the transmission. This lets the engine get off idle and get closer to peak torque output before being loaded with the drivetrain.

The other reason is that the tc actually multiplies the engine torque at lower speeds, so the transmission input shaft sees a bit more torque than the engine is actually making.

That's where the name "slushbox" came from... autos feel slushy because there ain't a direct mechanical connection to the engine. Unless of course you have a lockup converter, which the E4OD does. This is a wet-disc clutch inside the tc which engages in 3rd and 4th gears, locking the tc up into a solid mechanical drive.

I still prefer manual trans though. I'm glad autos are around for people like my mother who can't (not won't, but CAN'T) drive a manual, but I really wish they were still the "standard" transmission.