Well i ordered my 18 ga today and will cut it down for ease of handling. I plan on using replacement panels for doors and such (hoping to get 2 out of 1 since its a coe.) and have the bent 90s for outside skin and hood bottom patches. I know the rear cab corners are different on Coe's and several have told me to build them myself because they have the inner and outer. I haven't gotten that far yet, My strength's are i have worked in fabrication in the past but mainly bigger stuff. My weakness is body work and forming metal. Although i have done quarter panels, rocker panels and wheel wells in the past none of it is show quality and it is mostly replacement from another car. I have acquired plenty of neat tools over the years that i hope get back in full swing. miller mig welders, Miller zip cut plasma cutter,cabinet and pressure blasters i built and every wood working tool you can name. I am not kidding myself thinking i am talented as some of these great builders on here but I really am starting with some rough body parts that were going to the scrap yard so hopefully anything is an improvement.

 

I am pretty good at shaping metal, but some of your pictures made me cringe. It's definitely going to be a challenge and a way to spend a couple years of all your spare time. If it were me, I'd consider repairing that cab practice while looking for a far better example. Anything can be done, but sometimes it's either not worth it or it would be better/easier to fab all new. Ron Covell has several other videos you might want to invest in like the one where he builds a 36 Ford fender from scratch, and the one on hammerforming. He is very good at demonstrating how any metal form can be made by breaking it down into simpler forms and how to make metal move the way you need it to.
I always look at a new DIY project as a learning experience and as a reason to buy new/more tools! After all if I'm doing the labor I can use the money saved by not paying someone else to spend on tools!
MDF and plywood is some very useful material for aiding metal shaping. You might want to read thru the several pages of information on this site: http://heritagesonline.homestead.com/metalworking.html

 

Yes Ax it looks pretty bad but i'm making a 4 door and i have 4 cabs to make 2 trucks, This one is a 4 door so most of that rotted cab was being cut out anyway to make the joint. I will nee d to section some of the spare cab for parts and it will take alot of my time. the fact is that i was cutting off the back and having to redo the floor no matter which cab i used. Still looking for a great deal on something rust hasn't eaten away yet.

 

Hi guys I am new to this forum. I recently bought a 51 Ford F6 COE. It is coming along getting it running but missing two body parts. I have been reading you have 4 cabs you are using to make a 4 door and thought you would be the best bet to try and get the two items I need. By any chance do you have an extra battery cover/step or the engine cover inside the cab you would like to sell? If not then do you know where I could get these two hard to find items? I am in Oklahoma City.

 

Sorry i dont have either. My 48 had been modified with a differant doghouse to accomadate a buick engine and the 49 and 1 51 came with none. I tried to find one for Tinman without luck but I did see a battery cover in ebay today.

 

The first place I'm starting is new wheels and tires to replace the 5 hole on 8 inch widowmaker split rims. Seems the most expensive part. Options are $1200-$3000! Any advice?

 

Welcome to FTE!

If you look in the Classifieds, there are (or were) some good replacements for sale by members of this forum. Depending on your location and shipping charges, you should be able to get what you need for half that cost.

And now that you have 5 posts, I think you can use the search function. Always use the Advanced Search.

 

Well still stripping parts from the frames i bought. One all four wheels wont move and the other rolls so nice i can push it alone. I assume the brakes are rusted to the drums on the one. my plan is to pull the wheels and all brake parts for renewal. Does anyone know how many different wheel cylinders they used on the Coes from 48 to 54? My 54 rear is leaking and must be replaced.

 

It's for a 48 to 50 the front would have to be change .this hood is not rusted out but has some bents ,I thing it would look better on your truck then on my wall

 

Tom i would love to have it. How would i get it here

 

Ok well Mr winter slows us down some. I am waiting on warmer weather for media blasting and primer. Ive been tearing down parts getting ready. Some of the smaller things are sanded and ready others sand blasted in my cabinet.

 

Any progress is good! Too cold here to do much priming/painting as well......plus the bed I planned on using for mine is on another truck.....10 miles away....and buried in snow.

Waiting for spring....

 

Well I found a bargain on an English wheel that was opened and incomplete. so i bought it to start practicing. Since i have so much rusted areas im sure ill be able to match a bad spot.

 

I hope the english wheel wasn't one of the Harbor Fright ones. They are pure garbage not worth the effort to even assemble. Even if they were high quality and precision (actually far from it) it would still be too small to do anything larger than model size with it. Sorry if that's what you got, but read the online reviews (besides on HF's website) to see all their problems. If so I'd suggest taking it back and using the money to buy some tools that are really useful. I have been writing an ongoing post on doing body repair that I will be continuing soon. I list tools in there. i know you see the pros using the wheel regularly, but few really need one, there are other ways to do the same forming. If you want to buy body tools past hammers and dollys, my suggestions would be: a shotbag; a set of HMW plastic torpedo mallets; a bullseye pick; a shrinker/stretcher set; a shrinking disk; a spool of .023 ESAB Easy Grind MIG wire, Power metal shear (be sure to buy a major brand rated to 14 ga mild steel) or beverly throatless bench shear.

 

Took the gauges out to test and sand. They were very corroded so I may be using another. Most of these small parts and brackets have been Blasted and painted.