I have driven it home from the shop and a few short drives since. Over all probably less than 50 miles. I will be livid if the Detroit and gears are burnt up because of a replaced seal.

The shop I drove it from yesterday did the ring and pinion, Detroit, and axle seal at the same time.

I haven't sourced what exactly the oil is. Its a light brown oil that is not overly viscous. It reminds me a lot of engine oil.

 

Well you can leak out all the oil and sure burn it up, but if its its still leaking I'd say it has some in it. I would call the guy and make a appt for a repair ASAFP. And ck it before you drive it again. I would ck it and then take it to his shop and thats it.

And I am not 100 % sure on where the fill/ck plug is, on a D60 it on the rear removable cover. 9" has no rear cover, so I will say its on the front side in the webbing, L or R of the R&P.

80/90 gear lube is thick, any redness color its a wheel cylinder and keep in mind if your brake shoes are coated in it, you will need new shoes and the drums cleaned very well with carb/brake cleaner.

Hang in there, here is the Spedi sleeve....no need to buy new axles.

SKF Speedi-Sleeve


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/SpeediSleeve/

 

You are going to have to jack up the rear and remove the drum to see whats leaking. It sounds like a seal or wheel cylinder. It also sounds like you need some maintenance anyway. Its not a difficult job, or expensive, to replace all rear seals, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, brake hardware and possibly drums. I did it all a month or so ago. Drop the differential fluid as well and refill.

 

If it is gear oil it will stink to high heaven. Brake fluid doesnt have nearly the same stench.

 

For the steering - Start by adjusting the slack adjuster - it will be a locknut over what appears to be a bolt with a screwdriver slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot to hold it and back off the locknut. Slowly turn the screwdriver clock wise while rotating the steering shaft back and forth until there's very little to no play. Hold adjustment bolt and tighten the locknut. With power steering this is done with the engine running. Once the slack is adjusted out of the steering box, look at the top of the steering column (still under the hood) under the master cylinder. There's a heavy fiber washer (sometimes referred to as a rag joint) that makes a coupling in the column, usually this is worn out and the cause for excessive steering play.

 

The gear oil and axle seal are brand new. Its only been driven home and down the road a few times.

The oil I am finding does not have any real smell to it.. Just a thin oil with the light amber color of new motor oil.

Thanks for the steering adjustment info!!

 

[QUOTEMake sure you use 2 nuts in a lock nut set up.[/QUOTE]

Just an observation fellas. In the picture the nuts should not both be on the same side of the arm/bushing piece. It's better with one nut on each side to prevent the threaded rod from moving around in the hole on the arm/bushing piece and to prevent wear on the threads. The two nuts "sandwich" the piece in the middle holding it more solid.

 

Yes I should of went into a little more detail on that one. Yes you are correct rdmerc you need to secure the rod in the sleeve by either add a third nut on the other side or split the 2 with one on each side.

It also prevents the rod from falling out, I can't remember all the details, but I have seen it or read about it happening some where.

Good catch.

 

Picture time!!







This is from a park in the garage overnight.

 

That looks like brake fluid to me. Hard to tell from a pic.Check brake fluid level see if it has dropped

 

It seems to be the same fluid coming from the 3rd member

 

Could the shop have put in a lighter oil because of the locker install? Some call for
like a multi-grade also. This could be why it don't smell like gear lube and is running
out of the seals.

 

Well it obviously aint brake fluid leakin from the chunk. Leaves only 1 thing. I would take it back to the shop who did the work and make them fix it. Although if they cant get axles back in and chunk sealed up without leakin, it makes me wonder about how long your locker is gonna last.

 

^ you have a good point. They had a hard time getting the ring and pinion to seat correctly. I will be calling the shop monday and getting it fixed. Thanks for the help guys


I found two more small leaks. The transfer case is wet and will leave a few drops every night. What I think is the power steering pump also leaves quite a few drops every night. Are there common problems wkth these compnents?

 

Ask what oil they put in it. Some shops go pretty lite with the lockers. Some don't.
Both will work but it's hard to get the lite oil to seal and stay in.