Putting a 400 in a 1960 f100
#61
Anyone have any input on the radiator I'm thinking of getting? And also can some one give me an idea how to run the trans cooler lines? Where not to have them go by. Should I run lines down the driver side and have them go over the trans or on the passenger side and to the input and output. Which is the input and the output? I plan on just running the trans cooler lines to the radiator. And then later on if that's not sufficient cooling I will get an external cooler and have it run thru the both since now this project has turned into a pay check by pay check project.
Alex
Alex
#63
My tube bending skills are marginal, so I'm opting for the shortest distance. Since the ports on the trans and the radiator are all on the passenger side I'm going to run the lines that way.
If you contact the radiator company they'll be able to tell you what kind of HP that one can handle, and other than physical accommodation, that's really your biggest concern.
If you contact the radiator company they'll be able to tell you what kind of HP that one can handle, and other than physical accommodation, that's really your biggest concern.
#64
Alright now, i have a question, im still waiting on my radiator, i should be doing the swap this weekend or next depending on when i will be getting it. But my question is what size are the inlet, outlet on the trans for the trans cooler. I found a kit that comes with everything you need to do the lines your self at home and it come with 1/4 npt fittings for in the trans is that the right size or no.
Alex
Alex
#65
Alright now, i have a question, im still waiting on my radiator, i should be doing the swap this weekend or next depending on when i will be getting it. But my question is what size are the inlet, outlet on the trans for the trans cooler. I found a kit that comes with everything you need to do the lines your self at home and it come with 1/4 npt fittings for in the trans is that the right size or no.
Alex
Alex
The lines normally run up the right inside of the frame to the radiator.
Lou Manglass
#66
Alright now, i have a question, im still waiting on my radiator, i should be doing the swap this weekend or next depending on when i will be getting it. But my question is what size are the inlet, outlet on the trans for the trans cooler. I found a kit that comes with everything you need to do the lines your self at home and it come with 1/4 npt fittings for in the trans is that the right size or no.
Alex
Alex
#67
Donīt know why but havenīt noticed this thread until right now. Just skimmed over the 5 pages and seems youīve got a lot of response already.
Alex, I have a 400 with C6 in my ī60 F100, too. The truck came with it many years ago but I did a lot to make it look good. If you have any question please tell me or PM me, I have a lot of pics.
As for the headers the fit is tight. I used a set of Sanderson hugger headers and felt good with them. Gonna read the whole thread later and see what of your problems are solved already.
Cheers, Tom
Alex, I have a 400 with C6 in my ī60 F100, too. The truck came with it many years ago but I did a lot to make it look good. If you have any question please tell me or PM me, I have a lot of pics.
As for the headers the fit is tight. I used a set of Sanderson hugger headers and felt good with them. Gonna read the whole thread later and see what of your problems are solved already.
Cheers, Tom
#68
Donīt know why but havenīt noticed this thread until right now. Just skimmed over the 5 pages and seems youīve got a lot of response already.
Alex, I have a 400 with C6 in my ī60 F100, too. The truck came with it many years ago but I did a lot to make it look good. If you have any question please tell me or PM me, I have a lot of pics.
As for the headers the fit is tight. I used a set of Sanderson hugger headers and felt good with them. Gonna read the whole thread later and see what of your problems are solved already.
Cheers, Tom
Alex, I have a 400 with C6 in my ī60 F100, too. The truck came with it many years ago but I did a lot to make it look good. If you have any question please tell me or PM me, I have a lot of pics.
As for the headers the fit is tight. I used a set of Sanderson hugger headers and felt good with them. Gonna read the whole thread later and see what of your problems are solved already.
Cheers, Tom
Thanks Alex
#69
Well i tore into the truck today got the 223 torn out in a record time of almost 2 hours haha. Well when i went to put the new motor in i was looking at the motor mounts i got from speedway motors, made for my motor but doesn't work. The mounts on the motor measure 19in from the center to the center. the mount i ordered measures 17in from center to center. So now i have no vehicle because i messed up with my measurements the first time when the motor was on the ground.
So my question is does anyone know of a company that makes motor mounts for the 400 motor that can bolt in and are almost exactly like this but bigger.
ford 400 motor mounts from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Thanks for the help. Alex
So my question is does anyone know of a company that makes motor mounts for the 400 motor that can bolt in and are almost exactly like this but bigger.
ford 400 motor mounts from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Thanks for the help. Alex
#71
Try Sacramento Vintage, No. 12093-2
Sacramento Vintage Ford
Specs say itīs 16" center-to-center .. maybe you check your measurements ? BTW, I fabbed the motor mounts by myself while doing a M II front end conversion.
Watch for the right position of engine and trans in height, because the 400 plus C6 are a long train and trans bellhouse might get in touch with the cab.
Sacramento Vintage Ford
Specs say itīs 16" center-to-center .. maybe you check your measurements ? BTW, I fabbed the motor mounts by myself while doing a M II front end conversion.
Watch for the right position of engine and trans in height, because the 400 plus C6 are a long train and trans bellhouse might get in touch with the cab.
#72
Try Sacramento Vintage, No. 12093-2
Sacramento Vintage Ford
Specs say itīs 16" center-to-center .. maybe you check your measurements ? BTW, I fabbed the motor mounts by myself while doing a M II front end conversion.
Watch for the right position of engine and trans in height, because the 400 plus C6 are a long train and trans bellhouse might get in touch with the cab.
Sacramento Vintage Ford
Specs say itīs 16" center-to-center .. maybe you check your measurements ? BTW, I fabbed the motor mounts by myself while doing a M II front end conversion.
Watch for the right position of engine and trans in height, because the 400 plus C6 are a long train and trans bellhouse might get in touch with the cab.
Thanks Alex
I can get measurements of it all if needed
#73
Definitely a long tailshaft.
You're better off taking your existing driveshaft and having it cut & balanced, be sure to take the transmission output yoke with you so when the driveshaft is modified the guy can give you the correct U-joints at the same time. I ended up with the stock U-joint in the back with a mid-80s Ford U-joint up front due to the different cup size between the yoke and driveshaft.
You're better off taking your existing driveshaft and having it cut & balanced, be sure to take the transmission output yoke with you so when the driveshaft is modified the guy can give you the correct U-joints at the same time. I ended up with the stock U-joint in the back with a mid-80s Ford U-joint up front due to the different cup size between the yoke and driveshaft.
#74
Well, not really sure whether itīs a short or long tailshaft, guess itīs the long one, please see pic ...
Measurement of drive shaft will last a bit as the truck is not at my home at present.
Mr. Danleigh said everything to adapting the driveshaft. When I got my truck the drive shaft was only cut and welded. On my first drive-out with more than 40 mph the shaft broke due to imbalance. So let this be done by a professional.
Measurement of drive shaft will last a bit as the truck is not at my home at present.
Mr. Danleigh said everything to adapting the driveshaft. When I got my truck the drive shaft was only cut and welded. On my first drive-out with more than 40 mph the shaft broke due to imbalance. So let this be done by a professional.
#75
Steering wheel puller broke my steering wheel. I need to still remove it and it still wont budge. I tried the way with putting bolts in the threaded holes, those pulled right out also tried the hooks and it still wont come out. Am i missing something? Please help i am at a loss and very frustrated right now.
Thanks Alex
Thanks Alex