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85 F250 beater

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  #91  
Old 08-28-2014, 09:42 PM
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Here's a good picture with labels:




Hat-tip to IDIDieselJohn.
 
  #92  
Old 09-12-2014, 02:17 PM
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new topic for a moment. the truck hasn't shut off in a few weeks.

So my tires have a few cracks in the sidewall and I'm assuming they need replaced sometime in the near future. went to discount tire today and asked about it. my wheels are 16.5 8 lug and that is apparently kind of rare these days.

they quoted me about $950 for the tires and install or about 1025 for tires and new 16" rims installed. I was looking around craigslist today and found some ford, chevy and dodge 8 lug rims for sale somewhat cheep.

so do newer ford wheels fit older trucks? and do other brands fit older ford trucks? so far I've read no, then sometimes, then yes on older years with newer wheels...

so It's a big solid maybe...
 
  #93  
Old 09-12-2014, 03:42 PM
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your truck has 8X6.5 lug pattern. so any FORD 8 lug rim made 1997 or older will fit. as for the others, some universal rims will bolt on but it is a crap shoot if it will work or not.
 
  #94  
Old 09-12-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by wasbubs
new topic for a moment. the truck hasn't shut off in a few weeks.
You should get that fixed....

so do newer ford wheels fit older trucks? and do other brands fit older ford trucks? so far I've read no, then sometimes, then yes on older years with newer wheels...
Newer (starting in '99) FORD 8-lug rims will NOT fit your truck. They have a metric lug spacing. Newer Dodge/Chevy rims will have the right lug spacing, but may not have the right center bore or offset. Older Ford rims are usually not hard to come by. You might also look for 16.5" tires on CL.

Are you looking for steelies, or aluminum/alloys?
 
  #95  
Old 09-12-2014, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
You should get that fixed....
damn. Left myself open for that one!

Originally Posted by madpogue
Are you looking for steelies, or aluminum/alloys?
Whatever is available really. If I can get some good condition and cheap then I'm happy.
 
  #96  
Old 09-12-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
your truck has 8X6.5 lug pattern.
Hmmm are you sure this is right? I was almost positive it was 8x6.5....been wrong before tho LOL
 

Last edited by tjc transport; 09-12-2014 at 06:14 PM. Reason: correcting typo on my part. Tom
  #97  
Old 09-12-2014, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sherwin johnson
Hmmm are you sure this is right? I was almost positive it was 8x6.5....been wrong before tho LOL
you are correct, fat fingers on a tired person make typos.
 
  #98  
Old 09-13-2014, 02:23 PM
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Wheel Bolt Pattern Cross Reference Database and Conversion Guide: 8 X 6.5


Here ya go. Worked for me when I was shopping used rims.

Jason
 
  #99  
Old 09-13-2014, 02:27 PM
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Oh, watch the center bore size if buying factory rims off another truck. You might be OK with anything aftermarket, but I would ask or check.

J
 
  #100  
Old 09-13-2014, 03:42 PM
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Awesome thanks guys! That cross reference guide is great!
 
  #101  
Old 09-16-2014, 07:08 PM
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Ok so few problems today. Went to work, drove all over the city for errands and it shut off a couple of times but started right up. Few hours after I got home (maybe two) I wanted to go somewhere and went out to start the truck starts right up and after a second or two shut down. And now I can't get it started!

I have NO IDEA. Where to start to troubleshoot this. Any suggestions?

Update: After it (and I) had enough time to cool down it started up... So, does that mean it's a pump issue or somehow getting some air intrusion?
 
  #102  
Old 09-17-2014, 04:05 PM
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so... according to this 1984 F250 6.9L Wont start after engine is warm - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

I may have an injection pump issue...

if that is the case does anyone know where to get an inexpensive one?
 
  #103  
Old 09-17-2014, 04:18 PM
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The fact that it started and died then wouldn't start is in your favor. Maybe it's not the IP and instead related to the random shut down problem you were having earlier. If so check into that FSS and/or ignition switch.

However, to verify, next time it does it try the cool water trick mentioned in that thread. If it does start right up then yep, your IP is dying.

Unfortunately that's the most expensive consumable part on these engines. And you can't get a good cheap rebuild, it's one or the other. pumps <---- is a go to guy for a quality rebuild, but it's not cheap. You may have a local diesel shop that may be able to rebuild yours for less money, but you'd have to research their reputation.

There are 'cheap' rebuilds on ebay, but a lot of them are just cleaned and repainted used pumps.

So if you're one a budget, God knows I am, and cannot get a quality rebuild you're better off buying a used one off of ebay or your local yard. It'll be a crapshoot if it will last 10 days or 10 years, but you know what you're getting and it won't kill the pocketbook.
 
  #104  
Old 09-17-2014, 04:25 PM
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Here's a couple of used ones, if you have a local Pic N Pull yard you can go even cheaper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-IH-6-9-6-9L-injection-injector-pump-/151348505650?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233d12ec32&vxp=mtr#viTabs_0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-International-Diesel-Injection-Pump-DB2-for-6-9L-IDI-or-7-3L-IDI-/251648294920?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a97684008&vxp=mtr
 
  #105  
Old 09-17-2014, 04:45 PM
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Hmmm.... I can understand the on a budget thing, but really. Do you really want to take that big a chance just to save a couple hundred? To me, the known/unknown is a huge factor. Why not just get one that you know is going to be the best out there. To me it would pay off in the long run
 


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