Sorry for double post.

 

I recently replaced my front fuel pump and I did it by myself. I removed the 3 bolts/nuts completely from the passenger side of the bed and loosened the 3 drivers side bolts until the nut was about even with the end of the bolt. After that just find a good way to pry the passenger side up enough to get under there and change the pump. I pulled my truck under a tree and used a chain hoist. By the way, clean the top of the tank off COMPLETELY before removing the pump. You don't want any dirt falling in it.

 

I've gotten hurt sitting on the couch. I bet I can find a way to break my nose removing a truck bed

 

I tore a knuckle open today just getting out of the work truck, I know what you mean...

 

UPDATE: Well tonight I purchased the 3/8" fuel quick disconnect tool from O'Reilly's. Was able to remove the inlet/outlet line from the filter... WOW I have never smelled gasoline like that... more like turpentine. In my black drain pan the "gasoline" appeared milky in color. Thank you forum gurus for your advice you were dead on. I now have to contort myself in a way to disconnect the in/out lines on top of the tank in preparation to drop it. I do not have the capability to remove the bed because I am a one man show and my father had some sort of 5th wheel setup in the bed for horse trailers and bed removal is not possible at this point.

So should I replace all of the fuel lines or is that avoidable now that I have depressurized the system and have the lines dropped down where the fuel filter once was? I can see why all of you have suggested dropping the tank and that will happen. I will replace all fuel pump as well... is there just one?

Thanks Guys!

 

I balanced each tank on a scrap of 2x4 on top of a floor jack when I dropped my tanks. Once the tank came down far enough for me to get to the connections on top of the tank I used the tool to remove the fuel line connectors then disconnected the harness and vent and lowered the tanks to the ground. (Make sure that the front tank especially is empty. If fuel gets to moving from front to rear It Gets Fun in a big hurry.)

One fuel pump per tank. There is a check valve that allows fuel to flow out of the tank and a shuttle valve that allows return fuel to enter the powered tank; other than that there are no valves in the system. Both branches of the fuel line -- one to each tank -- are pressurized by the selected fuel pump.

I don't know if the flexible lines can be replaced at home. The majority of the lines are rigid and, unless they get a hole in them, should be good for a long long time.

 

I once drained gas from a 67 Mercury that had been in storage for 30+ years. Mine was almost neon orange, but yeah, it was a little potent!

 

Also, don't forget to take a wire brush (NOT one on a drill or angle grinder... sparks=BAD.) and clean up where the straps were to make sure there aren't any pinholes that need attention.

 

UPDATE 2: Well I have the front tank down and empty. The rear tank is up but bolts are loose... just have to figure out the fuel inlet hose and disconnecting it when I can actually get at it where it goes into the tank. So I have been thinking about cleaning the rust and varnish out of the tanks... so many different opinions on this subject ranging from rocks to E85 to vinegar to acid to professional chemical cleaning! What about just putting on NEW tanks? I was on eBay and see front and rear tanks for about $100.00 for aftermarket tanks. Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket tank quality and fit? I was thinking why remount a 20 year old fuel tank...

Also question 2... where is the best place to disconnect the fuel lines up front to blow out the lines front to back? I bought a new air compressor so if anyone can weigh in on this as well I would appreciate it!

Thanks everyone!!!

 

Why buy new tanks. That's more money you can spend on something else. Take a hand full of gravel throw it in the tank
Shake it around and be done. Worried about getting all of them out? Get a short piece of chain and shake around get a coat hanger and fish it out . Done and done. I did a tank on my fiberglass buggy that sat for 15 years threw some rocks in it a a little water to loosen the crap up dumped and rinsed a few times a new fuel filter with a couple extra in the tool box and it's been good for the last 5 years.

 

When I drop the fuel tanks I pull my MC jack out. Just slide it under the tank but out of the way of the straps and bring it up to it. When you loosen the straps it comes right to it and then lower the MC jack till it gets to where you need take the lines and wires off and lower and pull out then when ready to go back in reverse the procedure.
I have done about 8 Fuel tanks this year and I always use that jack works great. I have also used it when I dropped a trans and such.
$75 for a Craftsman one I bought used and haven't regretted it.
Trav

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question but what is an MC jack? Sounds like a great thing to have!

 

Motorcycle jack. They are awesome for doing a lot if things especially Volkswagen motors. Harbor freight has them pretty cheap.

 

correct. I picked one up on craigslist since I have 2 Harleys. Then ended up using them on the trucks also. I just think it is pointless to make a jack for a transmission when I have this that can hold 1500lbs. My biggest truck's trans and t-case together doesn't way that.
Trav

 

That is great info... will get one of those today... Thanks!!!