1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1980-1981(?) NOS slider lock control

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Old 01-28-2014, 02:01 PM
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1980-1981(?) NOS slider lock control

Most of us have the later style lock [or convert to it], but perhaps someone wants to remain stock...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-Ford-F100-F250-F350-Truck-Bronco-front-door-latch-lock-unlock-control-/121059662379?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2fb7da2b#ht_1900wt_916
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:48 PM
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I kinda get nostalgic sometimes and think about keeping the slider locks in my 1981, even adding power locks & windows someday.

I think like this AFTER some truck in the JY that would have been a good donor of such stuff has been crushed and it's too late.
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:54 PM
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Me too. I'm set up for pin lock as the much better door panel I have is from a later truck. But, they are kinda different, so sorta fit my theme.
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
Most of us have the later style lock [or convert to it], but perhaps someone wants to remain stock...

1980 Ford F100 F250 F350 Truck Bronco Front Door Latch Lock Unlock Control | eBay
Another clueless ebay seller: This is the left (drivers) side only.

E0TZ-1022169-M .. Control-Door Latch (LH).
 
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:26 PM
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As always, thank you for sharing your knowledge, NumberDummy!
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Another clueless ebay seller: This is the left (drivers) side only.

E0TZ-1022169-M .. Control-Door Latch (LH).
Not if you put it on the passenger side upside down, DUH!!! Lol, previous owner actually did that to mine. I had to go through a slew of '80s to finally get one that wasn't broke, then a month later it broke. Somehow he managed to match the exact same color as the other one...
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger80
... I had to go through a slew of '80s to finally get one that wasn't broke, then a month later it broke.
Which is why I'm moving on/back to technology that doesn't break. Being different is not bad and can be good if it works. But when it is prone to breaking....
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
But when it is prone to breaking....
...then one looks at the location of the failures and implements some enhancements
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:03 PM
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If one is so inclined. So far normal epoxy and hot-melt aren't the answers. So at some point the inclination runs off the bottom of the ramp.
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:11 PM
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My father (being the mechanical design engineer he is) fashioned some reinforcing "brackets" made of wood and held in place with tiny wood screws + J B Weld epoxy.
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:30 PM
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If I run out of things to do I'll start an 8-page micro-analysis on how to do that - assuming you don't beat me to it.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
My father (being the mechanical design engineer he is) fashioned some reinforcing "brackets" made of wood and held in place with tiny wood screws + J B Weld epoxy.
Chris, when I read this, I was reminded of being told, as a young man, that a "Safety Engineer" was one who wore suspenders as well as a belt to hold up his pants!
 
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:41 PM
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From reading these threads, I understand I need to convert my inside locks from slide to the vertical rod pull up design. They are both broken and I can only lock and unlock from the outside. I also understand a hole needs to be drilled in the top of the door to accept the vertical rod. What I do not understand is what else do I need to change out? Does the new vertical rod (I find on lmc.com) just attach to the inner mechanism within my current door or do I need to also swap out the mechanism? I called lmc support and 2 reps have no idea. They appear to be just order takers. Any advise or additional info would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:39 PM
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You might find this page to be of help: Door Locks - ?Gary's Garagemahal. From that you can see what parts are different. You will need the **** (431A36) and the rod (21852 & 3) that goes to the ****. Those parts will connect up to your latch and work. But, you will find that down is unlocked and up is locked if you use your current latches. So, if you want it to work the usual way, meaning that down is locked, you will also need the latch itself (21812 & 21813) from a later truck.

Having said that, those are just the basic part #'s, and you need to see the tables below the illustrations to get the complete part #'s if you are ordering Ford parts. But, I can't tell you what LMC is selling.
 
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:29 AM
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This is why I went to power locks windows!
 


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