Questions About Full Exterior LED Swap
#17
Yes, and no. Daytime running lights are allowed to be white. What constitutes daytime running lights is more and more at the whim of designers. Just look at the weird shaped strings of led lights that grace the front end of some cars today.
#19
Ok, so I went and bought an "electronic flasher" from O'reilly's for $12.47.
It is a little bit taller than the, I assume, stock one but it did fit and I was able to close the fuse panel. The clicking when the blinker flashes is noticeably louder than before. I won't be forgetting to turn it off after a turn lol.
I'm sorry for all the questions Brad, but if you (or anyone with experience) could confirm these sizes for last time I would really appreciate it.
For the FRONT I will need:
-2x 194's for the lights by the headlights.
-2x 916's for the lights by the turn signals. I searched for "916" on superbrightleds.com and it came up with this. http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...ent-bulbs/916/ which is basically saying the "194" will replace "916".
-2x 3157's for the actual turn signals.
For the REAR I will need:
-2x 3157's for the brake light/ turn signal.
-2x 3156's for the reverse light.
For the Cargo Lamp/Highmount Stoplamp I will need:
-3x 922's
In total 6 lights for the front, and 7 lights for the rear.
It is a little bit taller than the, I assume, stock one but it did fit and I was able to close the fuse panel. The clicking when the blinker flashes is noticeably louder than before. I won't be forgetting to turn it off after a turn lol.
I'm sorry for all the questions Brad, but if you (or anyone with experience) could confirm these sizes for last time I would really appreciate it.
For the FRONT I will need:
-2x 194's for the lights by the headlights.
-2x 916's for the lights by the turn signals. I searched for "916" on superbrightleds.com and it came up with this. http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...ent-bulbs/916/ which is basically saying the "194" will replace "916".
-2x 3157's for the actual turn signals.
For the REAR I will need:
-2x 3157's for the brake light/ turn signal.
-2x 3156's for the reverse light.
For the Cargo Lamp/Highmount Stoplamp I will need:
-3x 922's
In total 6 lights for the front, and 7 lights for the rear.
#20
Well, that's another question I had. This company has two different socket types for tail lights. One is a "3157 Standard Socket" and the other is "3157 CK Socket." I'm curious as to whether our trucks have the standard or CK socket type.
RED PLATINUM 21 LED BLINKER BRAKE LIGHT BULBS 3157 3156 4157 3157CK | 1 PAIR - 3157 - 3157CK - 3156 LED - Shop Bulb #'s
RED PLATINUM 21 LED BLINKER BRAKE LIGHT BULBS 3157 3156 4157 3157CK | 1 PAIR - 3157 - 3157CK - 3156 LED - Shop Bulb #'s
3157 vs 3157CK - What is the difference? - DistantXtremes
Best way to find out would be to test it yourself.
#21
#22
Not that ALL new vehicles are ugly... but a lot of them are, to me anyway. Guess the manufacturers ran out of good designs.
If you don't like the louder flasher, there are electronic flashers available that are completely solid-state and therefore completely silent. I have one but it's only rated to 10A so I would need one with more current-carrying capacity if I towed a trailer with standard incan bulbs. I don't even have any exterior LED's, I just wanted the turn signals to be silent. Still got the electromechanical unit in there for the 4-ways.
I have this: http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...asher/781/835/
But you'll have to remote-mount it and terminate the wires to male spades to be able to plug into the flasher socket... it's too tall to fit.
Oh and you can buy LED modules with resistors already built in instead of using the splice-in resistors. They (industry) call them CANbus bulbs... I guess because newer vehicles with a CAN communication bus can detect when you have a bulb out and will complain if swapped over to LED's (due to almost no load)... not sure why they think only CAN-equipped vehicles can do this... my 88 Bronco II could tell me if I had a bulb out... so could my Fox body Thunderbird.
#23
Hey guys new to the forum. I bought new tail lights off ebay that came with red leds. They worked when i first put them in but now i am getting no brake or turn signal lights I'm assuming i need the electronic flasher talked about above for the turn signal issue. Do i also need a resistor for the brake lights to function properly?
#24
Hey guys new to the forum. I bought new tail lights off ebay that came with red leds. They worked when i first put them in but now i am getting no brake or turn signal lights I'm assuming i need the electronic flasher talked about above for the turn signal issue. Do i also need a resistor for the brake lights to function properly?
#25
Fixed that for you.
Not that ALL new vehicles are ugly... but a lot of them are, to me anyway. Guess the manufacturers ran out of good designs.
If you don't like the louder flasher, there are electronic flashers available that are completely solid-state and therefore completely silent. I have one but it's only rated to 10A so I would need one with more current-carrying capacity if I towed a trailer with standard incan bulbs. I don't even have any exterior LED's, I just wanted the turn signals to be silent. Still got the electromechanical unit in there for the 4-ways.
I have this: CF12ANL-01 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs
But you'll have to remote-mount it and terminate the wires to male spades to be able to plug into the flasher socket... it's too tall to fit.
Oh and you can buy LED modules with resistors already built in instead of using the splice-in resistors. They (industry) call them CANbus bulbs... I guess because newer vehicles with a CAN communication bus can detect when you have a bulb out and will complain if swapped over to LED's (due to almost no load)... not sure why they think only CAN-equipped vehicles can do this... my 88 Bronco II could tell me if I had a bulb out... so could my Fox body Thunderbird.
Not that ALL new vehicles are ugly... but a lot of them are, to me anyway. Guess the manufacturers ran out of good designs.
If you don't like the louder flasher, there are electronic flashers available that are completely solid-state and therefore completely silent. I have one but it's only rated to 10A so I would need one with more current-carrying capacity if I towed a trailer with standard incan bulbs. I don't even have any exterior LED's, I just wanted the turn signals to be silent. Still got the electromechanical unit in there for the 4-ways.
I have this: CF12ANL-01 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs
But you'll have to remote-mount it and terminate the wires to male spades to be able to plug into the flasher socket... it's too tall to fit.
Oh and you can buy LED modules with resistors already built in instead of using the splice-in resistors. They (industry) call them CANbus bulbs... I guess because newer vehicles with a CAN communication bus can detect when you have a bulb out and will complain if swapped over to LED's (due to almost no load)... not sure why they think only CAN-equipped vehicles can do this... my 88 Bronco II could tell me if I had a bulb out... so could my Fox body Thunderbird.
As seen here: 3157 CAN Bus LED Bulb - Dual Intensity 26 SMD LED Tower | LED Brake Light, Turn Light and Tail Light Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs
But you're telling me that CAN bulbs will WILL work in our vehicles?
I had no clue buying LED bulbs for our vehicles would be so confusing lol.
#26
Here is a discussion over on CPF that I just found thru Google... good forum but I don't post there regularly.
"CAN Bus bulbs should not be used in non CAN Bus applications"?
Post #15 is interesting, what he is saying is basically the CAN bulbs might be made to run on a circuit that does not receive full battery voltage, and therefore might burn up when supplied with full voltage as in our trucks.
I don't think that would be the case, because why would a manufacturer run an incandescent bulb (such as a brake light) that's made for full voltage, at a reduced voltage? I understand that this is how DRL headlights work, but we are talking about everything else but the headlights here.
I just hate that you lose the energy savings that LED's offer, because you still need the resistor.
If I were wanting to do this, I'd just start with one set and try it out first. If the LED's are happy, then do the rest of the truck.
Maybe I'll even order a set to try it out. Been wanting to do so anyway.
#27
Yes the signals work in the front, The tail lights come on when i have my parking lights on, but do not brighten when i press the brake or flash when i have my turn signals on.
#28
#29
Hmm... interesting.
Here is a discussion over on CPF that I just found thru Google... good forum but I don't post there regularly.
"CAN Bus bulbs should not be used in non CAN Bus applications"?
Post #15 is interesting, what he is saying is basically the CAN bulbs might be made to run on a circuit that does not receive full battery voltage, and therefore might burn up when supplied with full voltage as in our trucks.
I don't think that would be the case, because why would a manufacturer run an incandescent bulb (such as a brake light) that's made for full voltage, at a reduced voltage? I understand that this is how DRL headlights work, but we are talking about everything else but the headlights here.
I just hate that you lose the energy savings that LED's offer, because you still need the resistor.
If I were wanting to do this, I'd just start with one set and try it out first. If the LED's are happy, then do the rest of the truck.
Maybe I'll even order a set to try it out. Been wanting to do so anyway.
Here is a discussion over on CPF that I just found thru Google... good forum but I don't post there regularly.
"CAN Bus bulbs should not be used in non CAN Bus applications"?
Post #15 is interesting, what he is saying is basically the CAN bulbs might be made to run on a circuit that does not receive full battery voltage, and therefore might burn up when supplied with full voltage as in our trucks.
I don't think that would be the case, because why would a manufacturer run an incandescent bulb (such as a brake light) that's made for full voltage, at a reduced voltage? I understand that this is how DRL headlights work, but we are talking about everything else but the headlights here.
I just hate that you lose the energy savings that LED's offer, because you still need the resistor.
If I were wanting to do this, I'd just start with one set and try it out first. If the LED's are happy, then do the rest of the truck.
Maybe I'll even order a set to try it out. Been wanting to do so anyway.
#30
I would check to see if connections in the socket are pooched.
Otherwise I think you may have bought the wrong flasher module.
I had to use this square one with separate leads to the flasher.
And those V-LEDs are the cats u know what.
If you have the money, buy em.
92 F-150 V3 Triton 6000k V-LEDS.com Demo - YouTube
Otherwise I think you may have bought the wrong flasher module.
I had to use this square one with separate leads to the flasher.
And those V-LEDs are the cats u know what.
If you have the money, buy em.
92 F-150 V3 Triton 6000k V-LEDS.com Demo - YouTube