The serpentine belts are obviously much longer than individual belts, so a percentage increase means a lot more in inches. I wish I could come up with a reasonable way to do a serp setup, but have given up as no one seems to make a reverse-flow water pump for the engine.

So I've settled on a v-belt arrangement, and even then I haven't found an automagic tensioner that fits and goes the right direction. Oh well, the manual one will work. Now, to build an engine to put it on…

 

Gary, as I pointed out, it doesn't have to be a reverse rotation water pump, mine isn't.

 

I missed that, Bill. So, why do we hear about people having trouble with overheating if they've installed a reverse-rotation pump on a v-belt system, or vice versa? Is that an urban legend?

 

No, but it's only Windsors that have RR water pumps.
460's are all the same.
Check the belt routing diagrams you can find on Gates or other websites.

If the water pump pulley is on the inside of the belt, it is regular rotation.

Since the 335 engines never came with a serpentine setup you will have to check with March or whatever manufacturer makes the pulleys you want.

 

Start with trying some 460 pulleys for WP and crank. They use two polygroove belts, one for crank, air pump, alternator and water pump/fan, the other for PS, AC and WP/Fan. only this one uses a tensioner. FWIW, 3.0L Rangers use a serpentine belt with a normal rotation WP, the tensioner rides on a loop between crank and WP pulleys. All Mod motors use reverse rotation pumps except the Lincoln Continental DOHC 4.6L, it uses a normal rotation pump.

Like Jim says, look at belt diagrams for ideas. When you get good at figuring out what you have to fabricate, let me know, I want to use a serpentine system on my 2.5L DOHC turbo MOPAR I will be building.

 

Ok, thanks guys. I'll have to start looking at how Ford did it. I gave up when I found that the 460 brackets won't work, but perhaps the pulleys will. However, I'll have to find a serp pulley for the Saginaw. And, since I'm thinking about electric fans, that would change things as most later engines have a serp belt with no fan on the pump.

 

The 90s era chevy trucks had serpentine saginaws.

 

All the EFI E series vans did too.

I don't know what front dress will line up with your Flowkooler water pump and the crank pulley, but shimming or backspacing is probably just as easy as finding or fabricating offset pulleys.

What is the bolt circle of your harmonic balancer?

 

Been reading through the entire thread, which has a lot of helpful information. I will be building a very similar 400 for my 77 in the near future. What is the latest status on your engine? Did you ever get it on the dyno?

 

Haven't gotten it finished yet, but I will get going on it soon. The truck is coming home soon from the body shop, so I need an engine to put in it.

 

Thanks for the update. I'll keep checking in on your progress.

For my build, I will definitely be going with the TMI rotating assembly kit, probably the CHI 2V heads, mild roller cam and roller rockers. I just want an engine with really good torque, good idle and vacuum. I doubt if my engine will ever see anything above 5000 rpm, and probably rarely above 4000. I will be interested in how well you like your cam.

I already have a lot of the bolt on stuff, I just need the good stuff on the inside.

 

Looks good. But, why not a factory air cleaner to get cold air to the carb?

 

I do still have the factory aluminum air cleaner. It is in great shape, except for a small crack. I have thought about polishing it up and seeing how it would look. I just don't think the single inlet would let in enough air, if I did ever want to get up higher in the rpm range. I guess I could do the dual inlet, as I saw on your modified cleaner.

 

You might want to find a later model 351HO unit and build a dual-snorkel as I am doing. Looks great, and lets in lots of cool air.

 

I believe the Mustang 302 HO model came stock with 2 snorkels and matching cold air intake for a couple yrs