Nice looking build

 

Thanks,
I was able to get the inner fenders all sanded down and painted. the front support / radiator part was painted and bolted up. I have some fixing of the fenders after scratching them with the bumper fairly bad. The truck is primed but there is rust showing through the primer. I guess it has to be sealed.... I'll add another coat of primer and hope it will keep the surface runs from developing under the paint. I sanded all the rust off so it must be the fresh metal and all the rain we been having.

 

Mcali2,

Just curious, what
Kind/Brand of primer are you laying down that is allowing rust to form?

Did you lay down a coat of epoxy primer before starting bodywork?

In general, I go down to bare metal, spray a coat of SPI epoxy, then do metal work as required laying a coat of epoxy over fresh body work if it will sit for a while.

SPI has some great products (and it's not expensive).

I've had a Mustang sitting outside in NJ with just 2 good coats of epoxy... No rust in over a year (including snow). When I'm ready to continue body work, I give it a wash and hit it with 180 grit, then prep like I normally would.

Your truck is looking great by the way.

 

I'm using dupla color primer I did body work over bare metal like the books said. I should have started with a sealer primer I guess. The primer is thin where it has started to give a rust tint in the paint. I am going to sand and give it a good solid coat and not sand it until it's ready for color.

 

Normally primer is not water proof. Paint is. I have heard of those who prime and then put a cheap aerosol paint just so they won't get rust when they can't get
to it right away. This is just hearsay on my part.

 

What disc brake kit are you using?

 

Never mind went back through and found it.

 

Well I started on the hood. the hood had 2 wrinkles in the ridges like something heavy was placed on the hood. Like a deer. Anyway, I flipped the hood upside down and added lead weight to help flex the dents out. there is 200 lbs of lead in the 4 boxes. one side is almost right. I am using a small angle iron to put into the V grove and tapping it to help with the shaping.




there is a dent behind the second layer of steel that i cant get to and i dont feel like pulling the dent out so i am removing the steel and will hammer it out . I also can get it painted behind to stop the rusting. there was some small holes rusting through so it is worth the time.







How is the tab of steel to be shaped? it goes behind the mesh on the grill where the ford is placed.

 

So I was thinking of using a hand gun for a shift handle. I will thread the barrel and attach it to the shift rod. So I have been looking for someone's junk gun. I had a guy call me and said he bought a 357 from a guy for 35$ but it did not work. I told him to come over and I will look at it. I notice right away the cylinder was webbed inside. And the barrel was plugged at the breach. I informed him that he had a starter pistol and it was broken beyond repair. so he gave it to me. Whohoo! Now I don't have to use a real gun. It looks real and is all metal. Should be fun except when I get pulled over.

 

I sanded all the rust off and sealed it with the special rust paint.


I made sure to give it 3 coats and sure enough it still scratches easily.



I'm having a hell of a time getting the hood to line up. I have added washers as spacers and it seems to not change it a bit. I then re arched the hood in the back to try and get it to match (not shown yet).


I also added washers to try and push the hood forward away from the body. It binds there and is messing up paint and steel.












if anyone knows how to adjust a hood to keep it from binding , I would be grateful.

After re arching the hood it did help some but it still hits and binds. I arched it too much on one side and need to try and fix it after i get the hood to work correctly. Just a note the hinges look solid.

 

The hood repair you are doing is not for the faint of heart!

 

My new stick shift.



I had to relocate the hole to fit the new trans.








I still need to weld it together but it will work.

 

If you have not found your pans, Classic Auto ( Automotive ) Parts, Car Wrecking: Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick, More. we went to their yard for a tail gate off a 1959, $50.00. I am not sure if the pans are bad in that truck, but I think they were still good.

 

BY THE WAY < LOVE THE PISTOL GRIP

 

Well today I welded up the trans cover and worked on the front end. I aligned the tires, added new shocks and adjusted the steering box. I will need to fab up a better tie rod. the stock one is too flimsy. It is also bent in 40 different directions.